5298RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
- Nov 9, 2005There are two issues with using a scraper. First, the edge is completely unconstrained, so that unless you have godlike skill you will not get the work truly flat. Secondly, a scraper doesn't leave as clean a surface as a plane. Better than sanding, but still not as nice as a plane.-----Original Message-----What about a finishing scraper with a fresh burr?
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com]On Behalf Of Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:06 PM
Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
I'm asking, not advising......
--- kjworz@... wrote:
> Another tip:
> If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line
> of planing, as the angle provides even more slicing
> action vis scraping/crushing action.
> Old time expensive shooting boards often had a
> shooting plane with a skewed angle built into the
> bed. If you have oodles of money and a lot of time
> to hunt one down you could go that route, but I
> doubt it is worth the effort for you. You can get
> good results with the everyday tools that all the
> tips that have been provided and a small bit of
> Are skewed planes blades Period? Probably not. I
> have heard of no example extant. Is skewed planing
> technique Period? Probably. No evidence confirming
> either way.
> -Chris Schwartz
> Silver Spring, MD
> To add on to this topic, here's a few things I
> learned this weekend:
> - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
> - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
> - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's
> breadth from the edge of the blade.
> - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly
> wider than the thickest shaving you want to take.
> Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a
> problem if you back up the work with a stop block.
> A shooting board will make this much easier.
> A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood
> in any direction. I saw this with my own eyes, and
> have little doubt that I can replicate the feat.
> Charles Joiner
> -----Original Message-----
> From: firstname.lastname@example.org
> [mailto:email@example.com]On Behalf Of
> Craig Robert Pierpont
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
> Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a
> very fine cut.
> The grain will split when the cut runs off the
> edge of the board so you will have to work from both
> ends of your board toward the center or cut a small
> chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is
> going before planing the end grain.
> It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working
> across the end of the board from one side to the
> Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once
> you are below the rough stuff, you should be able to
> take a cut that will leave the surface almost shiny.
> The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit
> different from normal edge planing. If you don't
> have somebody to show you, you'll just have to work
> at till you get it. You'll get it.
> Craig Robert
> Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
> Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
> email@example.com wrote:
> Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
> From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@...>
> Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
> I've been working on a few projects in the past
> week, and run into the
> same problem on all of them. I spend more than half
> of my time on a
> given project trying to clean up endgrain. I'm
> trying to work only
> with tools I can document to the 15th century, which
> means that the
> only things I have found useful for this task are
> chisels and files.
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could
> make this task
> easier without using OOP methods?
> Laurence of Skraengham
> Baronial College of Tor Aerie
> Kingdom on Northshield
Baron Conal O'hAirt / Jim Hart
Aude Aliquid Dignum
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