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5297Re: [MedievalSawdust] Or you could make one...

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  • Dragano Abbruciati
    Nov 9, 2005
      OH, I like that.  It also places the blade at an angle for an easier shave.  Thanks for sharing.

      michael_recchione <michael_recchione@...> wrote:
      A shooting board is a necessary piece of equipment if you don't want
      to use sandpaper.  Here's a link to plans for a ramped shooting board
      and also some plans for other types of shooting boards.  Making a
      simple, non-ramped one is about an hours work or less.


      - Mike

      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Phillips" <chuck@c...>
      > Chris;
      > I didn't mean to imply that people should go out and hunt down one
      of the
      > few remaining cast iron shooting boards.  Part of the reason those
      > are so rare is that most people saw no reason to buy one in the
      first place.
      > All you really need is a couple of boards.  Make one about 4 inches
      > which is wide enough to support your work.  Make a second board about as
      > much wider as the cheek of your plane.  For most of use, that come
      to about
      > 7 inches.  Both of these are 2-3 feet long.  Fasten the two boards
      > stacked on their wide faces.  Add a stop block to the top piece, and
      > your uncle.
      > It is entirely plausible that shooting boards fall into the category of
      > "everyday tools".  The reason that few, if any, wooden ones have
      survived is
      > that they don't look like "tools", and so most were likely pitched
      into the
      > wood pile along with all those transitional planes.
      > Charles Joiner
      > Caid
      >   -----Original Message-----
      >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of kjworz@c...
      >   Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 4:59 AM
      >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com; medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      >   Subject: RE: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
      >   Another tip:
      >   If you can, skew the blade at an angle to the line of planing, as the
      > angle provides even more slicing action vis scraping/crushing action.
      >   Old time expensive shooting boards often had a shooting plane with a
      > skewed angle built into the bed.  If you have oodles of money and a
      lot of
      > time to hunt one down you could go that route, but I doubt it is
      worth the
      > effort for you.  You can get good results with the everyday tools
      that all
      > the tips that have been provided and a small bit of skill.
      >   Are skewed planes blades Period?  Probably not.  I have heard of no
      > example extant.  Is skewed planing technique Period?  Probably.  No
      > confirming either way.
      >   --
      >   -Chris Schwartz
      >   Silver Spring, MD
      >   To add on to this topic, here's a few things I learned this weekend:
      >   - Make sure your plane sole is well flattened.
      >   - Sharpen to blade until it splits photons.
      >   - Set the cap iron (Provided it has one) a hair's breadth from the
      edge of
      > the blade.
      >   - Close down the mouth so that it is only slightly wider than the
      > shaving you want to take.
      >   Breakout on the far end of the stroke will not be a problem if you
      back up
      > the work with a stop block.  A shooting board will make this much
      >   A well tuned plane can take a shaving from any wood in any
      direction.  I
      > saw this with my own eyes, and have little doubt that I can
      replicate the
      > feat.
      >   Charles Joiner
      >   Caid
      >   -----Original Message-----
      >   From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      > [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Craig Robert
      >   Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 11:21 AM
      >   To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      >   Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Cleaning up endgrain
      >   Laurence,
      >       Use a sharp low angled block plans set to take a very fine cut.
      >       The grain will split when the cut runs off the edge of the
      board so
      > you will have to work from both ends of your board toward the center
      or cut
      > a small chamfer on the corner toward which the plane is going before
      > the end grain.
      >       It may be helpful to make narrow cuts working across the end
      of the
      > board from one side to the other.
      >       Your first cuts will be hit and miss but once you are below
      the rough
      > stuff, you should be able to take a cut that will leave the surface
      > shiny.
      >       The way you handle the plane will be quite a bit different
      from normal
      > edge planing. If you don't have somebody to show you, you'll just
      have to
      > work at till you get it. You'll get it.
      >   Craig Robert
      >   Lord Craig Robert le Luthier de Pierrepont OVO CAR
      >   Apprentice to Dame Alysea of Ashley
      >   medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com wrote:
      >   Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2005 18:11:37 -0000
      >      From: "lawrence_djd" <teffendar@h...>
      >   Subject: Cleaning up endgrain
      >   I've been working on a few projects in the past week, and run into the
      >   same problem on all of them.  I spend more than half of my time on a
      >   given project trying to clean up endgrain.  I'm trying to work only
      >   with tools I can document to the 15th century, which means that the
      >   only things I have found useful for this task are chisels and files.
      >   Does anyone have any suggestions as to ways I could make this task
      >   easier without using OOP methods?
      >   Laurence of Skraengham
      >   Baronial College of Tor Aerie
      >   Kingdom on Northshield
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      > --

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