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2591Re: triangle stool

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  • Tom Rettie
    Jul 2, 2004
      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, rikwolff@a... wrote:

      > 1.) Don't skimp on the hardness or the diameter of the legs;
      > no less than 2 inches, if you ask me.

      If you're using turner's joints (round tenons), you can't go much
      less than 2 inches on the posts without producing a very weak joint.
      The smaller the diameter of the post, the closer together the
      mortises are and the less wood there is in between them to hold
      things together.

      An alternative is to use a square tenon on one rail and a round one
      on the ajoining rail. The round one goes through the square one,
      locking it in place. It lets you do through tenons (common in
      period) and also leaves a stronger post.

      > The depth of the round mortices for the horizontal pieces is
      > the only source of lateral stability (fighting against sway
      > and what I can only describe as corkscrewing: you attempt a
      > swivel, and the poor joints bend to allow it; next thing
      > you know, CRUNCH).

      When using turner's joints for the top seat rails, I always make the
      tenons long enough that they intersect, and miter them so the ends
      joint together snug. You can stagger the lower rails so they don't
      intersect, or they only partially intersect and lock each other in

      However you do your tenons, plan on there being some tension in the
      horizontal rails. Even with a drill press, you probably won't bore
      the mortises precisely on every post. This tension can help hold
      everything together though; I've got stools with no glue or pegs,
      they're rock solid on just the internal tension of the rails and


      (Tom R.)
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