16123Re: [MedievalSawdust] RE: Labor saving electrons.
- Dec 18, 2013I think my times are a little off, might be closer to 30 mins, I'll need to get out the stop watch (I did that on the last project). Here are several things that I can think of that account for the time it takes.0. I'm still getting manual skills. :-)1. The log has a pretty major twist, I'm stuck with that for now, next time I will select a log that will not have as much twist.2. One major savings that I had not been doing was cutting withing 1/2" of the length of the final part. As a result I have been working on more of the log than I need, which also causes me to pull more twist out.3. I'm still working out when to switch from roughing to more of a finishing plane.4. I need constant reminders to myself, if it looks square it is square. Because of the twist I need to square up more than I should.In the end I'm not in a rush, so as long as I'm content playing quietly in the basement everyone is happy.Alas I don't own a bandsaw (on my wish list for "someday") long rip cuts suck.For an A&S project I'm freely willing to spend the time, eventually I'll get better, then it really is the journey that matters. No one other than me would know how I got the project done, but I'll know :-)Hmm, the power planer marks might be caused by my cheap planer, it has a fixed speed, since all I have used it for is bulk stock removal it and I are a perfect match. Once the surface is hand planed I don't do any thing else with it. Sanding is reserved for things that I can't figure out how to plane, and that has been less and less of late.I totally agree on the cost of working my hand, only a tiny fraction of the world could tell few are willing to pay for the time.Peter Petrovitch.On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:47 AM, <kaisaerpren@...> wrote:
40 to 50 minutes to get 1 board/part? since I can't observe you working I can't tell you where you are going wrong.
only that you are spending way way to much time planing and shaving.
if your log has to much (any) twist: it is either stock for round legs or it is firewood. I would use it for legs of chairs and stools.
If your wood splits neatly, one or two swipes with the drawknife is all the first surface should need. the next should need little more, the 3rd surface since now you are getting into thickness or width, may need 4 or 5 pulls. check your construction/where this part/plank will be used,
If you are just making "boards" to dry for future projects: And if you must use twisty logs, try splitting (no shaving or planing) and then stacking/stickering with weight on top to flatten out the twist. they will dry the way they are held. if the twist is too severe to hold down with weights; try steaming them then weighing them down flat.
Many parts historically were left as split on the "backs" where they were unseen and no joinery was connected. so many parts do not need any more shaping than 3 sides (face and 2 edges)
Have fun and keep your tools sharp.
I myself use a bandsaw to plank gnarly logs into useable boards, good/(well set up) hand planes can then make nice surfaces after it dries.
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