Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

15606Re: Harvesting your own wood

Expand Messages
  • Ralph
    Mar 9, 2013
    • 0 Attachment
      I wish you good luck with drying pear in the log.

      I've dried pear before. The problem you probably will have is that the core (pith) dries at a different rate then the sap wood. This generates radial cracking. Which is why, when processing logs for turning bowls the first thing we do is cut the pith out of the log, and then work with a half-log.

      Orchard wood generates additional issues, due to the pruning Orchard's receive the wood get's unequal tension in the grain, compared to wood that grows "naturally". Which is part of why the Apple I processed into boards had that piece I didn't restrain twisted so much.

      I actually had almost zero failures in the Apple wood I stacked, stickered and clamped.

      As for steam, the problem with steaming wood is it is real easy to go into a "super heat" situation. That is where the temperature gets so high the wood gets tempered (or hardened), while boiling in the free air this doesn't happen.
      Large commercial establishments use steam, but they control the process to a degree the hobby or small operations would find difficult.

      I tend not to buy dimensional wood at Rockler or Woodcraft. I have been buying from from NW Wood near Tacoma, but Pierce Co is forcing them to move and they plan to be gone by fall. Of course there is also CrossCut and EdenSaw.

      But I usually get wood in log form, but mostly anymore I turn what I am making,


      --- In medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com, "karincorbin" <karincorbin@...> wrote:
      > I am currently drying out some pear wood tree sections I bought from orchards in Eastern Washington state. (If you watch the Seattle craigslist they show up now and again as firewood for bar-b-ques and smokers) I am letting them dry in an unheated garage for 2 or 3 years before I cut them into boards. They have been in there for 1 year now. Slow drying round logs reduces the issues one gets from splitting them up into small slabs right away. Pear wood does not split very well anyway, much better to saw it up after it is dried.
      > This last year I was able to purchase large planks of the wild European steamed Pear from the Seattle Rockler store. But when I was in there the other day they were out of stock.
      > Look up the steaming process for woods, it does help to explain why boiling works as there are cellular level changes induced by the moisture and heat. Also you can recover from cell collapse in earlier stages where the wood was not dried properly by steaming or in your case boiling.
      > Karin
    • Show all 30 messages in this topic