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11918RE: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest

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  • Bill McNutt
    Oct 19, 2009
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      Putting handles on it also reduces the amount of kvetching you get from household members. 


      From: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Wagner
      Sent: Monday, October 19, 2009 10:02 AM
      To: medievalsawdust@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [MedievalSawdust] Mastermyr chest



      My camp chests are all Mastermyr inspired to a degree.  I too like the half-lap corner joint.  I also like the out-sloping chest ends.  I kept the from & back vertical, which avoids the compound angles, and just used a flat 3/4" plan lid rather than a thicker lid with hollowed interior.  I have about 7 in various lengths that I use regularly - I made them all the same height so that they make a nice packing platform in the bottom of my trailer.  I had to break down and add rope handles to the one for my tools, as it was a bit heavy to lift without.  Reminds me, I need to make another for the lathe stuff...

      Hrothgar Fiscabana

      Kingdom of Gleann Abhann

      On Mon, Oct 19, 2009 at 1:10 AM, <conradh@...> wrote:


      On Sun, October 18, 2009 8:33 am, Conal O'hAirt Jim Hart wrote:

      > Anyone here done a mastermry reproduction/inspired chest?
      > What did you learn in the process?
      > What advice would you offer before I start?
      > Anything surprise you?
      > Anything not work like you thought it would?

      I've never tried an actual replica of the Mastermyr box, but after seeing
      it I used the "Norse half-lap" (or whatever the official name for the
      corner joint is) on several wooden chests. I like it, enough to use it on
      a tool tote and at least one other non-period box over the years.

      What I do have considerable practice with is the hardware. I really like
      Norse ironwork (making a replica Oseberg lamp is what got me into
      blacksmithing in the first place, lo these 35 years ago) and I've made
      four Mastermyr-style chest locks and plenty of the hook-and-eye style
      hinges as well. I can supply irons for your replica, or coach you through
      making your own if you prefer.

      The locks are really cool. One key in the middle opens both hasps
      simultaneously. You insert the key and work it into place--tolerances are
      loose and the key is fairly unconfined in there, so finding the proper
      place for it is not so automatic as it is with a modern lock. When the
      key is seated, it's turned ninety degrees, which brings its teeth past the
      wards and through the sliding plate, where they lift the locksprings clear
      of the tab that's bent up on the end of the plate. Now the key becomes an
      operating handle, as you use it to slide the whole lockplate and lockbar
      sideways. This pulls the tips of the lockbar free of the hasps, and they
      pop open. The lid is liftable now. Locking is the reverse: close the lid
      and push the hasps home, then use the key to slide the bar back until you
      hear the springs click down.

      Tre Tryckare's book _The Vikings_ has a three-panel drawing showing the
      operation, which is what I used to build my first copy. Look at it if you
      have it, but do realize that they screwed up and printed the illo upside
      down and inside out. It doesn't match the captions at all, but it finally
      made sense once you realized that you were standing on your head inside
      the box.

      I assume you have, or have access to, Arwidsson and Berg's _The Mastermyr
      Find_? It has some archaeological drawings, descriptions and photos. My
      copy is English language but printed in Stockholm; I've heard there's been
      another edition made over here at some point. If you don't have the book
      or have trouble getting it, I could copy you the relevant info.



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