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Fw: [SCA-AS] Links: Medieval Shoes

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  • Phlip
    Aoife sends out her Links on Medieval topics about once a week, and this week, it s on a topic dear to many people s hearts, shoes. Jeeze, Marc, you lead off
    Message 1 of 3 , Jul 8, 2004
      Aoife sends out her Links on Medieval topics about once a week, and this
      week, it's on a topic dear to many people's hearts, shoes.

      Jeeze, Marc, you lead off the list ;-)

      Saint Phlip,

      "When in doubt, heat it up and hit it with a hammer."
      Blacksmith's credo.

      If it walks like a duck, and quacks like a duck, it is probably not a

      Never a horse that cain't be rode,
      And never a rider who cain't be throwed....

      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Lis" <liontamr@...>
      Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2004 4:59 PM
      Subject: [SCA-AS] Links: Medieval Shoes

      > Greetings, everyone!
      > This week's edition of the Links List is all about Footwear. I know I
      > covered this subject several years ago, however, many of those Links are
      > dead, and there are new ones to see. My only wish is that someone would do
      > an article on Medieval orthopedic shoes...some of us (naming no names, but
      > her name starts with A) are a mite too old and defiantely too fall-prone
      > be hot-footing it around in thin-soled slippery footwear!
      > Please enjoy these Links and forward them where they may find an
      > audience. I enjoy hearing where these lists travel, so don't hesitate to
      > me know where you are sending it to!
      > Cheers
      > Aoife
      > Dame Aoife Finn of Ynos Mon,
      > a/k/a Lisbeth Herr-Gelatt
      > Canton of Riverouge
      > Barony of the Endless Hills
      > Kingdom of Aethelmearc
      > Footwear of the Middle Ages by I Marc Carlsson
      > http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/SHOEHOME.HTM
      > (Site Excerpt) The purpose of this web site is to provide a general guide
      > footwear in the European Middle Ages, with some examinations of footwear
      > before that period, as well as some that came after. Hopefully this will
      > an overview of footwear technology up to 1600. Since we don't have the
      > materials or knowledge to make this an exhaustive view of all footwear up
      > 1600, because much of the knowledge has been long lost, not yet published,
      > or simply not available to me at this time, this site should always be
      > considered a work in process.
      > Medieval Shoes from the Bata Museum Collection, Toronto, Ontario
      > http://www.medievallife.com/Pages/Bata_Shoe_Museum1.htm
      > A Series of photos in their colelctionof extant shoes. Clains to be page
      > of 3, but no button to navigate. It is possible to find the other pages by
      > replacing the numer 1 at the end of the URL with numbers 2 or 3.
      > Making Medieval Arrowheads (a type of shoe)
      > http://www.the-exiles.org/essay/makingmedishoes.htm
      > (Site Excerpt) There are many different methods used to create the
      > authentically a last should be used. What follows though is an easy method
      > of creating a mediaeval looking shoe.
      > Firstly draw around your foot on a piece of paper and extend the big toe
      > into a point (it's also worth narrowing the middle slightly) to give your
      > shoe that mediaeval look. See fig 1.
      > Northampton University Medieval Shoes
      > (Site Excerpt) Footwear styles continued to change during the Medieval
      > The sole and upper were no longer thonged but stitched together with
      > and the toe became a sharp point, known as scorpion tails, they began to
      > longer in the 1320's and became known as pikes, crackowes or poulaines.
      > length of ones toe was an indication of status. The King and his court had
      > shoes with the largest toes. This style wasn't worn by women. The ankle
      > remained popular, it was usually side laced with three pairs of holes.
      > Shoes from the Mary Rose
      > http://www.maryrose.org/life/cloth1.htm
      > (Site Excerpt) The mid-sixteenth century marked a turning point in shoe
      > construction, with the traditional 'turnshoe' giving way to the 'welted'
      > method still used today. Square, round or ear-toe shoes demonstrate the
      > variety of styles worn, with some slashed in a decorative manner similar
      > that used on the jerkins.
      > Pattens, Clogs and Wooden Soled shoes
      > http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/APP4.HTM
      > (Site Excerpt) When dealing with this whole category of footwear, there
      > some problems with the terminology that need to be dealt with right away.
      > The term "clog" has at one time or another meant any and all of the above
      > mentioned items, and "patten" has meant at least as many things. So for
      > purposes of this document, the following things will be referred to as:
      > Pattens, Chopines, wooden soled clogs...
      > Wooden Pattens
      > by Mistress Fuiltigherne
      > http://www.meridies.org/as/dmir/Costume&Fashion/0928.html
      > (Site Excerpt) Soled hose and cloth shoes of the Middle Ages were fine --
      > long as you were staying indoors. In order to protect them from the mud
      > mire, a type of overshoe was developed. The terms "cog", "patton",
      > and "pulaine" seem to be for the most part, interchangeable, although the
      > "poulaine" seems to apply mostly to those overshoes with leather soles.
      > basic patten had a wooden sole with a covering of leather over the top and
      > leather strap to hold the shoe in place. Pattens wore worn out of doors
      > removed while inside.
      > Footwear for Scottish and Irish re-enactors
      > http://www.historicgames.com/Scottishstuff/ghillies.html
      > (Site Excerpt) Shoes are often one of the more difficult items of apparel
      > for the re-enactor to obtain. Handmade footwear in a period style is
      > expensive. Even simple shoes can cost over $100, and the price often goes
      > from there. As a result, a common problem among re-enactors is an
      > good portrait of a historical character, marred by modern-styled
      > or shoes.
      > Costume: Accessories - 13th Century Footwear
      > by Jurgen von Baden
      > http://www.havenonline.com/moas/a_s_2000/shoes.htm
      > (Site Excerpt) These two pairs of shoes are based on styles of footwear
      > common during the 13th century. They are both based on patterns taken from
      > shoes that were excavated from along the Themes River in London. These
      > have been detailed in Shoes and Pattens: Medieval Finds from Excavations
      > London. Nearly 1500 shoes were excavated, covering the time period 1150 to
      > 1450. This provides a large sample of shoes, many of similar style, from
      > which a number of conclusions can be drawn. First, shoes of this time
      > were of turnshoe construction. The shoes were sewn together inside out,
      > then turned right side out once they were completed. This type of
      > construction protects the seams of the shoe from wear.
      > Lasts, History and use in Medieval Shoes
      > http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/shoe/APP2.HTM
      > (Site Excerpt) The origins of shoes are obscured by the distance of
      > and like them, the origin of the last is equally hidden in that same
      > distance. Tradition among shoemakers would imply that lasts have always
      > been used, alongside other ancient tools like the boar's bristle, flax
      > thread and the curved awl, if not since Adam was handed his first lasts
      > after being tossed from the Garden, at least since the day that some
      > nameless caveman got tired of wearing leather bags on his feet and so
      > invented shoemaking. However, while tradition can tell us a great deal
      > about the people who maintain those traditions, tradition is not history.
      > Ideally, history is determined by facts that can be documented and studied
      > objectively (I should note that this view of history is at variance with
      > some of the schools of thought in historicial studies in the past decades.
      > While I accept the reality of relativism in history, I'm not sure that we
      > should use that as an excuse to stop searching for an objective truth).
      > Stefan's Florilegium: Shoemaking
      > www.florilegium.org
      > To see these files and messages, click on "clothing" on the lefthand menu,
      > then "shoemaking" or "shoes" on the right.
      > Tournaments Illuminated index: Footwear
      > http://www.sca.org/ti/topic.html#garbfoot
      > Presently the index has several article slisted by tonly one linked: On
      > Constructing Boots and Shoes by Caitlin Stuart.
      > http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shoe/construction.html
      > (Site Excerpt) This pattern is for a type of early medieval (l0th to 13th
      > cent.) shoe that is distributed widely in North Western Europe, examples
      > known from York, England as well as Hedeby/Haithabu in Germany and
      > in Sweden. The shoe (Find no.756), sole (757), and upper (819) are
      > in reference [1].
      > Poor People's Poulaines --Pointy Shoes for Everyone! (copyright Cynthia
      > Virtue)
      > Easy pointy shoes out of modern leather, which will look accurate at
      > distances.
      > http://www.virtue.to/articles/poulaines.html
      > (Site Excerpt) * So how long were these points, anyway? One fairly
      > un-reliable source I have says that anyone who was lower than a prince
      > not wear points on their shoes that measured over six inches in length. If
      > you look at the pictures in this handout you can see that the points
      > the 15th century seem to be between `half the foot long' and `as long as
      > foot' in most cases. You can do your own figuring for your own foot how
      > this really would be for you
      > Shire of Hartstone: Medieval Hats, Belts and Shoes
      > http://www.shireofhartstone.org/hatsplus.html
      > This site includes: To Shod a Shire by Lady Eowyn Swiftlere at
      > as well as several links from the last time I chose Shoes as a topic
      > (thanks, guys, for saving them!).
      > Barony of Carillion: Medieval Bag Shoes
      > http://www.carillion.eastkingdom.org/CUARAN_convt.pdf
      > Note: This is an Adobe Acrobat file, and a good one. It take s quite a
      > to load, however, so please be patient.
      > Markland: Shoes
      > http://www.markland.org/shoes.php
      > (Site Excerpt) Most medieval shoes were "turn shoes", sewn together inside
      > out and then turned rightside out, to keep the stitching protected from
      > wear. The sole is sewn to the upper with an edge/flesh seam: the stitch
      > passes straight through the upper, then into the edge of the sole and out
      > through the flesh (rough) side (fig 1.). The edges of the uppers can be
      > butted together and sewn with an edge/flesh seam, or simple overlapped and
      > stitched straight through.
      > Late 14th Century Shoe with Poulaine (a photo series)
      > http://www.medievallife.com/Pages/14thCenturyShoePoulaine01.htm
      > Medieval and Postmedieval Turnshoes
      > from Kempten (Allgäu), Germany
      > http://www.uni-bamberg.de/~ba5am1/info/shoes.htm
      > (Site Excerpt) The oldest complex is of special interest for
      > and historical research. It contains charters, writing exercises, a love
      > letter, playing-cards, wooden waste from a turnery and also about 600
      > leather and fur objects, which are the topic of the author's doctoral
      > thesis(3).
      > The biggest part of the leather finds are shoes - which is common on
      > conventional excavations. The earliest types beyond these were one well
      > preserved fragment of a poulaine (a.k.a. crackowe) (top is cut off, fig.
      > and a nearly complete patten.
      > Fragment of Medieval Shoe from Newcastle upon Tyne
      > http://museums.ncl.ac.uk/archive/old_fotm/old_fotmmr98/
      > (Site Excerpt) The fragment shown is the back piece of upper from a
      > boot, extending to the quarter butted seam on one side. The other edge is
      > torn. On either side the butted seams slope down from the top edge where
      > where a triangular piece would have been inserted to complete the shape.
      > back top edge has a whipped seam where a top band would have attached. On
      > the flesh side at the back, heel stitch marks show where a heel stiffener
      > was attached. A lasting margin with stitch holes at 5-6 mm intervals is
      > present except at the heel base where it is worn away. All butted seams
      > stitch holes at 4 mm intervals. Threaded through the leather are two
      > parallel rows of thonging 3 mm wide. One set of double slit holes above
      > rows suggests that there were originally three rows of thonging. Thickness
      > 3mm
      > NorthShield: 7th Century Anglo-Saxon Shoes by Tarrach Alfson
      > http://www.havenonline.com/moas/a_s_2000/shoes2.htm
      > (Site Excerpt) These are two pair of 7th century Anglo-Saxon shoes.
      > of probable designs of 7th century shoes are shown in Figure 1. The
      > pair was made using fairly lightweight leather for both the upper and sole
      > as was described for the shoes found in the 7th century grave at Sutton
      > They are experimental in that I wish to see some of the advantages and
      > disadvantages of thin-soled shoes. The second pair is done with heavier
      > leather and is more complex in construction techniques (including a rand
      > an appliqued decoration with inner sole covering arch support). This pair
      > includes a number of techniques described for shoes found at Sutton Hoo.
      > Costumer's Manifesto: 17th Century Shoes and Boots
      > http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/17THSHOE.HTM
      > It's the Shoes, Baby!
      > Shoes through the Generations
      > http://www.lausd.k12.ca.us/NH_Zoo_Magnet/shoes/
      > (Site Excerpt) Footwear styles continued to change during the Medieval
      > The sole and upper were no longer thonged but stitched together with
      > and the toe became a sharp point, known as scorpion tails, they began to
      > longer in the 1320's and became known as pikes, crackowes or poulaines.
      > length of ones toe was an indication of status. The King and his court had
      > shoes with the largest toes. This style was not worn by women. The ankle
      > shoe remained popular, it was usually side laced with three pairs of
      > "Romance is everything." Gertrude Stein
      > "I have learnt to love you late, Beauty at once so ancient and so new!"
      > (Bishop) Saint Augustine (354-430)
      > _______________________________________________
      > Artssciences mailing list
      > Artssciences@...
      > http://lists.gallowglass.org/mailman/listinfo/artssciences
    • Marc Carlson
      Cool, thank you for posting it. arrowheads ? Marc
      Message 2 of 3 , Jul 8, 2004
        Cool, thank you for posting it.


      • Inis Binis
        Hi everyone, I can add one more interesting link, containing information not only about footwear. There s been much more very interesting archaeological
        Message 3 of 3 , Aug 3, 2004
          Hi everyone,

          I can add one more interesting link, containing information not only about footwear. There's been much more very interesting archaeological findings. Visit it and enjoy! ;o)


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