Re: [medieval-leather] Re: Coppergate shoe
No problem. Let me know if you have any more York queries.
You\'re right - it is very dark in the artefact gallery at JORVIK!
> I\'ve just had a look at your website and your shoes look nice. However,
> your Jorvik boot is not quite right. There are no buckled shoes from
> Anglo-Scandinavian contexts from York sites. The flap over the instep
> actually fastens with one or two toggles - see Marc\'s site for details.
> Buckled shoes appear during the 14th century and are usually low
> or front-fastened boots - see Shoes and Pattens and our own forthcomingMedieval York.
> volume, Leather and Leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and
Thanks. I was basing it on pictures that I took in the Jorvik Center
and aside from an almost complete lack of labels, it is as dark as the
inside of a boot. When I reexamined my pictures, I see that What I
thought was a buckle is just the highlight of the toggle in poor
light. I will have to make a new pair and change my site.
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- At 02:54 AM 12/11/03 +0000, Medb wrote:
Okay, time for the complete newbie to ask more questions:
What is jewelers rouge? What is stropping? Would a whetstone work
for sharpening (I have one already somewhere and I'd prefer to keep
the costs down if at all possible)?
(sorry if this bugs everyone, but I really have no idea on how to do
No, this is a very thread. Most of us that have sewn leather for awhile have either worked out or been taught a myriad of ways to handle and prep the awl (and thread for that matter). If they get your project sewn and holds together, then they are all valid.
Jewelers rouge is light abrasive that comes in a number of grades. Any of them will do the trick. Personally, for polishing and stropping tool edges, I've found the white rouge to be most effective (I do my metal work for findings, so I have a full range of polish and rouge to experiment with). You can find it at most good hardware stores. A single tube of any of the grades will last practically forever. I'm still using the same stick of white that I bought 10 years ago.
My strop board is a scrap of 1 X 4 hardwood that I shaped into a narrow paddle shape, and sanded well flat on both sides. One side has firm (the flesh side is not "fuzzy") leather glued on flesh side up the other had a similar piece glued on grain side up. Both sides are dressed with the rouge.
I know someone else who made a similar stick, only square, with a different rouge on each face (I think his has emory, tripoli, red and white rouges).
The coarser texture of the flesh side leather holds a bit more compound, so I usually strop a couple of passes on that side then finish on the grain side.
A whetstone will work just fine, the finer the stone the better (after you get the initial edge to your liking). Keep an eye out at yard sales and flea markets. The 3 sided hones with a coarse, medium and fine stone on a stand are usually pretty easy to find, and last forever. I snagged mine from a yardsale nearly 15 years ago, and only the oil stains give away it's age.
Ron Charlotte -- Gainesville, FL
ronch2@... OR afn03234@...