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Re: Dye and paint questions

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  • rhys412002
    ... showing ... into ... Cool. This is what I was looking for. ... possible ... not ... Well, I gave her the samples I made, pointing out the cracking on the
    Message 1 of 12 , Nov 27, 2002
      --- In medieval-leather@y..., "Cynna" <admin@l...> wrote:
      > Al Stohlman wrote several books on dyeing leather, including
      > 'Coloring Leather' (TLF#61942-00). In it, he created a chart
      > how 'Tandy Pro Dye' reacts - on white paper, light colored leather,
      > dark colored leather, and mixing with other colors. He also went
      > how to dilute the dye and the shades that they create. Fiebing's
      > Spirit Dye is the same dye as Tandy Pro Dye, which is bottled by
      > Fiebing's with Tandy labels.

      Cool. This is what I was looking for.

      > If you do go with acrylic paints, the best technique is to do many
      > thin coats instead of one heavy coat. Unfortunately, it only really
      > works well on leather not needed to be flexible, not really
      > with a belt. Always be sure to seal the paints with a clear acrylic
      > like Leather Sheen, SuperShene, Resolene, etc. This will help keep
      > the paint from cracking, although not indefinitely.
      > Have you considered just oiling the belt and trying to get it to
      > 'age' to a good yellow? With the right original leather, you may
      > have to do much work at all to get it a good 'natural' yellow,
      > instead of day-glo.

      Well, I gave her the samples I made, pointing out the cracking on the
      painted pieces, but the verdict -- she wants paint. Specifically, the
      road-sign, visible-at-100-yards-underwater "medium yellow" paint.
      *shrug* I'm not inclined to argue the point as she's paying for the
      materials...if the Laurel wants paint, the Laurel gets paint. :-)
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