Using Brewers Pitch, need help, Thanks
- Hey All,
Thanks for all the suggestions for fixing the leaky Jacks.
They are lined in the dark black brewers pitch and you are correct
that stuff is quite brittle, which is why they were leaking now.
The jacks are painted with the heraldry of the Principality of
Northshield so I was a bit relunctant about the oven and after
visiting the web sites of some commercial Jack makers I was a bit
uneasy about the microwave. I chose instead to use something that
you are "never" supposed to put in leather Jacks, hot water. No duh,
it melts the lining, and beautifully I might add. All the cracks
filled in nicely and I was able to patch the places with the hot
pitch. I now have nicely sealed jacks again. And I did use the
swirling technique to move it around. Must come naturally.
I think I will try the candle technique to smooth the rim. Either
that or I was going to use a curling iron with some parchement paper
wrapped around the rod so it wouldn't stick. Gah, I know, but I'm a
tool using primate.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Minister of Regalia
Principality of Northshield
- cptkay@... wrote:
>Traditionally, this is done on Arabic/Indian/French copper vessels.
> > >(maybe I'll buy one of those lead test kits just in case? :))
> Now then, while not about leather, but pertaining to chemistry, which
> has a bearing on leather, and then still the fact that I am NOT an
> expert, heavy metals, which does include lead, is no fun, true, but the
> ill effects of lead exposure are more difficult in children, and the
> unborn, as opposed to an adult person. Which is not to say they are
> without possible harm! Lead dust will make you sick, and yes, your hair
> can fall out, and you start...well, it isn't pretty, but it does take
> quite a lot!
> As to your drinking cup, see if you have a friend who might be either a
> plumber, because they now use lead free solder on pipes, and see if
> they can "tin" the inside for you! making it infinitely more safe.
First you clean them extremely well, then you pour in molten
Tin when the vessel is at the approximate same temperature
and it bonds, you pour out the excess, leaving a thin coating
of tin. If you are practiced you don't drip the outside.
> TheI bought a sugar bowl, a nineteenth/early twentieth century model
> jeweler? ask them about silver plating it! true, costs more-maybe-they
> do use nasty thngs to suspend the silver or other precious metals in
> for the plating, but hey, that stuff rinses out! (so they say!)
with a chalice like base with a fancy band around the middle near
the top, which had spoon holders on it. The silver plate was coming
off part of the inside. I cut the top off and had it replated.
Looks nice, though I rarely use it anymore. The replating about
18 years ago ran me nearly $60, figure double that now.
Silver plating is most normally done with silver cyanide, although
there are some newer plating compounds that don't work quite as
well. Generally, I believe they are not as bright.
> The seguey you ask? the current brough ha ha about chrome tannedI'm not saying chrome tanned leather is hazardous, but-
> leather, and the toxicity of chrome. While chrome tanning is not quite
> midevil period, it is very prevalent in todays time. The chrome that is
> in the leather is NOT that evil hexavalent chrome stuff. While still
> not advised for food seasoning, or beverage making, if you were to wrap
> your body in chrome tan, probably the only thing that would kill you
> would be :
> a- your spouse/SO for spending the money
> b- the local Vegan population
> c-the neighborhood bow-wows looking for a chew toy!
I've had chromic acid poisoning. Not something that you would
ever want to experience. Either IBM or ITT brought in a pair
of large plastic electronics cleaning tanks (Think 4 x 4 x 8'
or larger) that needed new bottoms. The people that helped me
wash them out broke out some. I broke out for seven weeks on
-all exposed skin-. No telling what the hot nitrogen/chromic
acid fumes did to my insides when I welded new polypropylene
bottoms on them. Rather like poison ivy over wide areas of
your skin. Skin that did not get wet necessarily from washing
the tanks. More likely skin that was more exposed to the
fumes from the welding using hot nitrogen to melt the plastic
welding bead and foundations. I used to do custom plastic
welding that went to most of the electronics firms in the
Southeast U.S.. Some of it was huge stuff for their treatment
lines. Chemicals that would eat metal or concrete got used
in them. I did a 600 foot open drain system once for example.
This was about the time I started to degrade physically, we
also did a lot of work with particle board with Formaldehyde
in it so thick you could taste it. Formaldehyde causes allergy
sensitization that is irreversible. At this point, twenty
years later I've been disabled for seven years next week
and I can eat about 15% of what I previously could without
reactions. Wrong food these days puts me in the ER.
Don't mess with either chemical.
I'd much rather suck on a lead spoon than be exposed to either
chrome or formaldehyde again. Formaldehyde is not used as
much as it used to be, but it was a very important chemical
in particle board and wood glues. I spent more than twenty
years doing woodworking and plastics and modelmaking.
What manufacturers, employers, and the government does not
tell you until it's too frigging late is not necessarily
good for you. I started buying Hazardous Materials books
about that time for self preservation.
My understanding, and Mistress Gunnora wrote a really good
piece on Epoxy hazards a while back, is that -anyone- can
develop an allergy to epoxies if they handle them enough/
get them on their skin. There are apparently many types of
epoxies. Some I've used to cast resin models with (30+ telephone
prototypes for ITT, when there was an ITT) was hazardous.
We also used urethane resins which were not quite as bad.
And rtv rubber molds for either of them. We did use very
hazardous epoxy paints to finish with. Our stuff had to look
like die cast materials to +/- .005", including the finish.
It was used for evaluating internal components, aethetics,
and for tooling to make the six inch thick steel injection
Food grade I don't know about. Possibly there is a safe one.
I think I'd like to see an Material Safety Data Sheet on it
before I used it. There are many sites for such things on the
I believe Mistress Gunnora's SO is a person who works with
such things. I know what I've read in trade publications and
on the warning labels of stuff I used to use. I bet I've got
five types downstairs now. Gunnora@... if
you might be interested in politely asking her for a repost.
When I mentioned the 'anyone can develop an allergy to epoxies'
bit I was referring to stuff I've read in the literature, not
to Mistress Gunnora's posting which I believe was either on
SCA-Arts or Norsefolk. Norsefolk@yahoogroups.com is searchable.
Magnus, been there, done that.