Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.

Re: [Carolingia] Semi-OT: A puzzling thing

Expand Messages
  • ladygzb
    You could ask this guy: http://55tools.blogspot.com/
    Message 1 of 9 , Dec 21, 2009
    • 0 Attachment
      You could ask this guy:
      http://55tools.blogspot.com/

      --- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Robert Huff <roberthuff@...> wrote:
      >
      >
      > This came across another mailing list:
      >
      > > I have a picture of this
      > >
      > > http://www.wiglaf.org/~aaronm/travel/paris2009/troyes/Maison%20de%20l%27outil/Thing.jpg
      > >
      > > and another of a different instance of the same tool
      > >
      > > http://www.wiglaf.org/~aaronm/travel/paris2009/troyes/Maison%20de%20l%27outil/Thing%20closeup.jpg
      > >
      > > but I haven't a clue what they are. Does anybody recognize them?
      > > The handle of the first one is in the shape of a horse, but it
      > > doesn't lppk like any sort of farrier's tool I've seen before...
      > >
      > > The first one is probably 18th century, the second 19th...
      >
      > It has been suggested this might be a leather-working tool; it
      > is not familiar to me. Does anyone here recognize it?
      >
      >
      > Diego Mundoz
      >
    • B Gr
      as that they are many and have onimtation on them could be strap pullers for moving straps thru slots.  or even boot pulls for putting on those silly high
      Message 2 of 9 , Jan 16, 2010
      • 0 Attachment
        as that they are many and have onimtation on them could be strap pullers for moving straps thru slots.  or even boot pulls for putting on those silly high toped boots.
        without seeing bottoms for wear marks hard to say. but defenaly not a tool for cutting or marking leather.
        lady Johannette

        --- On Sun, 12/20/09, siggy@... <siggy@...> wrote:


        From: siggy@... <siggy@...>
        Subject: Re: [medieval-leather] [Carolingia] Semi-OT: A puzzling thing
        To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com
        Cc: Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com
        Date: Sunday, December 20, 2009, 8:29 PM


         




        I see several old horse twitches and an old fashion horse mouth speculum.  Some could be castration tools. knocking teeth out  (wolf teeth)  or horn removal.    May be even roaching a mane.  Put it all together and ? cool tools
         
        Sigrid
         
         
         
         
         
        > I have a picture of this
        >
        > http://www.wiglaf org/~aaronm/ travel/paris2009 /troyes/Maison% 20de%20l% 27outil/Thing. jpg
        >
        > and another of a different instance of the same tool
        >
        > http://www.wiglaf org/~aaronm/ travel/paris2009 /troyes/Maison% 20de%20l% 27outil/Thing% 20closeup. jpg
        >
        > but I haven't a clue what they are. Does anybody recognize them?
        > The handle of the first one is in the shape of a horse, but it
        > doesn't lppk like any sort of farrier's tool I've seen before...
        >
        > The first one is probably 18th century, the second 19th...

        It has been suggested this might be a leather-working tool; it
        is not familiar to me. Does anyone here recognize it?

        Diego Mundoz

        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]











        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • Timothy Park
        Working with a friend who does black power things. He just finished a *lovely* swivel breech flintlock pistol. Two barrels and locks, over and under, but one
        Message 3 of 9 , Jan 20, 2010
        • 0 Attachment
          Working with a friend who does black power things.

          He just finished a *lovely* swivel breech flintlock pistol. Two barrels
          and locks, over and under, but one trigger mechanism. The barrels are
          rotated 180 to bring the other into line for use.

          So this is a bulky, but valuable weapon, and therefore Stuart desires a
          holster of some sort for it.

          Having done any number of knife sheaths I'm familiar with sewing wet
          leather to a snug form.

          And I'm writing here to check my idea for a covered holster for this.

          My thought is to create a flat backed holster similar to the saddle
          holsters for hussars and other cavalry in Continental Europe around
          early 19th Century. (In case you care to find a picture). And to render
          it with vegetable tanned leather (given what chrome tan does to steel).

          My thought is to pad the pistol with paper or some kind of shipping wrap
          at the trigger and locks, and then wrap the whole in a mix of saran wrap
          and vet wrap to protect it from wet. Then I'd position it and secure it
          with tape on a piece of plywood rather oversize for the project. Lay wet
          leather over this and tack it down similar to tacking to a last for a
          last formed turn shoe, but this will not be turned.

          I may also form the holster cover similarly by tacking that in place,
          flesh side up, before positioning the pistol, and then putting the outer
          holster body in place as above. Then pull the flap over, shape it some
          and leave the whole to dry.

          Once barely damp I'd punch the stitch holes while it was in place, then
          trim, and trace the trim lines (to get the pattern for the back).

          Cut, dampen and punch the backing. Stitch such loops or straps as
          necessary to the back. Stitch cover to back. Attach any hardware to
          front. Stitch front to back.

          How does that sound? Any suggestions or criticisms?

          Sincerely,

          Timothy, a Blacksmith
          Raventurtle Forge
          Rockford, IL (for now)
        • Shawn Zoladz
          That s how I would do it. Except I would let the leather dry after you form it. It will keep its form better during assembly. -Shawn W. Zoladz Major
          Message 4 of 9 , Jan 20, 2010
          • 0 Attachment
            That's how I would do it. Except I would let the leather dry after you form it. It will keep its form better during assembly.

            -Shawn W. Zoladz



            Major Productions, High Quality, Hand Made Leather Goods.



            Follow me on Twitter: http://twitter.com/majorzolz

            --- On Wed, 1/20/10, Timothy Park <park.ta@...> wrote:

            From: Timothy Park <park.ta@...>
            Subject: [medieval-leather] Technique question: out of period, technically
            To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com
            Date: Wednesday, January 20, 2010, 3:01 PM







             









            Working with a friend who does black power things.



            He just finished a *lovely* swivel breech flintlock pistol. Two barrels

            and locks, over and under, but one trigger mechanism. The barrels are

            rotated 180 to bring the other into line for use.



            So this is a bulky, but valuable weapon, and therefore Stuart desires a

            holster of some sort for it.



            Having done any number of knife sheaths I'm familiar with sewing wet

            leather to a snug form.



            And I'm writing here to check my idea for a covered holster for this.



            My thought is to create a flat backed holster similar to the saddle

            holsters for hussars and other cavalry in Continental Europe around

            early 19th Century. (In case you care to find a picture). And to render

            it with vegetable tanned leather (given what chrome tan does to steel).



            My thought is to pad the pistol with paper or some kind of shipping wrap

            at the trigger and locks, and then wrap the whole in a mix of saran wrap

            and vet wrap to protect it from wet. Then I'd position it and secure it

            with tape on a piece of plywood rather oversize for the project. Lay wet

            leather over this and tack it down similar to tacking to a last for a

            last formed turn shoe, but this will not be turned.



            I may also form the holster cover similarly by tacking that in place,

            flesh side up, before positioning the pistol, and then putting the outer

            holster body in place as above. Then pull the flap over, shape it some

            and leave the whole to dry.



            Once barely damp I'd punch the stitch holes while it was in place, then

            trim, and trace the trim lines (to get the pattern for the back).



            Cut, dampen and punch the backing. Stitch such loops or straps as

            necessary to the back. Stitch cover to back. Attach any hardware to

            front. Stitch front to back.



            How does that sound? Any suggestions or criticisms?



            Sincerely,



            Timothy, a Blacksmith

            Raventurtle Forge

            Rockford, IL (for now)




















            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • Henry Plouse
            I made a formed veg-tanned leather holster for a very long barrelled matchlock pistol replica, using essentially the same technique which you describe, with
            Message 5 of 9 , Jan 21, 2010
            • 0 Attachment
              I made a formed veg-tanned leather holster for a very long barrelled matchlock pistol replica, using essentially the same technique which you describe, with the exception that I let the formed pieces dry completely and used a very small drill bit to make the sewing holes, rather than a punch.  Punching dampened leather runs the risk of deforming the shape (and dimpling the leather).  Do note that I use the "Cariadoc Method II" on the leather, which involves using 165 F water for about 45 to 60 secs, so that the leather not only forms but hardens.  I also used a 9-10 oz. leather, tho' I've done similar forming (albeit for knife/seax sheaths) with leather as thin as 4 oz. and as thick as 15 oz.  I think the 10 oz. works best in this application, however.

              NOW, hardened leather can rub the finish on both the wood and metal parts of the gun, so, before sewing it all together, I lined the interior portions of the sheath with chamois (the stuff they sell for cleaning cars works just fine and will not damage the metal - you can get perfectly good chamois for the purpose at "Harbor Freight Tools" for about $10 for 3.5 sq. ft.).  You can easily attach it to the leather with a product like "Tanner's Leather Weld", which works well enough that additional fastening is not necessary, tho' it is my practice to roll the edges under and sew it to the formed pieces at the exposed edges (leaving about a 3/8th inch welt).  Extend the chamois far enough everywhere else to be secured by the stitching where the formed section meets the back section.  The natural chamois color, btw, looks lovely juxtaposed against the dyed black leather and the chamois will hold a nice amount of gun oil so that the gun remains nicely
              lubricated within the holster, without feeling "greasy" on withdrawal of the weapon.

              I've also done some sheaths with this method, however, I like to line my sheaths with shearling (which is period, btw), which can also be oiled lightly for protection against rust (in the old days, they used natural, unprocessed shearling and relied on the natural lanolin for lubrication, however, most available shearling now has been thoroughly cleaned of its oils and the oil must be added - I like "Break-Out" gun oil for the job).  If you do that, of course, you need to wrap the blade (or pistol) with something which will allow the extra room to accommodate the shearling.  I find that either 1/4 inch closed cell foam or multiple layers of thick craft foam works well, after which you put the Saran wrap and tape on.  The nice part about the craft foam is that you can differentially build up the layers for a better fit (and a nicer exterior contour).

              Hope that helps.  Enjoy.

              YOS,
              ALRIC, Glyn Dwfn/An Tir  




              ________________________________
              From: Timothy Park <park.ta@...>
              To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Wed, January 20, 2010 1:01:43 PM
              Subject: [medieval-leather] Technique question: out of period, technically

               
              Working with a friend who does black power things.

              He just finished a *lovely* swivel breech flintlock pistol. Two barrels
              and locks, over and under, but one trigger mechanism. The barrels are
              rotated 180 to bring the other into line for use.

              So this is a bulky, but valuable weapon, and therefore Stuart desires a
              holster of some sort for it.

              Having done any number of knife sheaths I'm familiar with sewing wet
              leather to a snug form.

              And I'm writing here to check my idea for a covered holster for this.

              My thought is to create a flat backed holster similar to the saddle
              holsters for hussars and other cavalry in Continental Europe around
              early 19th Century. (In case you care to find a picture). And to render
              it with vegetable tanned leather (given what chrome tan does to steel).

              My thought is to pad the pistol with paper or some kind of shipping wrap
              at the trigger and locks, and then wrap the whole in a mix of saran wrap
              and vet wrap to protect it from wet. Then I'd position it and secure it
              with tape on a piece of plywood rather oversize for the project. Lay wet
              leather over this and tack it down similar to tacking to a last for a
              last formed turn shoe, but this will not be turned.

              I may also form the holster cover similarly by tacking that in place,
              flesh side up, before positioning the pistol, and then putting the outer
              holster body in place as above. Then pull the flap over, shape it some
              and leave the whole to dry.

              Once barely damp I'd punch the stitch holes while it was in place, then
              trim, and trace the trim lines (to get the pattern for the back).

              Cut, dampen and punch the backing. Stitch such loops or straps as
              necessary to the back. Stitch cover to back. Attach any hardware to
              front. Stitch front to back.

              How does that sound? Any suggestions or criticisms?

              Sincerely,

              Timothy, a Blacksmith
              Raventurtle Forge
              Rockford, IL (for now)






              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            • lukeknowlton
              Alric, Would you have photos you could post of the holsters? I d love to take a look at them. YIS, Luke Knowlton
              Message 6 of 9 , Jan 22, 2010
              • 0 Attachment
                Alric,

                Would you have photos you could post of the holsters? I'd love to take a look at them.

                YIS,

                Luke Knowlton


                --- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Henry Plouse <ozymandias1951@...> wrote:
                >
                > I made a formed veg-tanned leather holster for a very long barrelled matchlock pistol replica, using essentially the same technique which you describe, with the exception that I let the formed pieces dry completely and used a very small drill bit to make the sewing holes, rather than a punch.  Punching dampened leather runs the risk of deforming the shape (and dimpling the leather).  Do note that I use the "Cariadoc Method II" on the leather, which involves using 165 F water for about 45 to 60 secs, so that the leather not only forms but hardens.  I also used a 9-10 oz. leather, tho' I've done similar forming (albeit for knife/seax sheaths) with leather as thin as 4 oz. and as thick as 15 oz.  I think the 10 oz. works best in this application, however.
                >
                > NOW, hardened leather can rub the finish on both the wood and metal parts of the gun, so, before sewing it all together, I lined the interior portions of the sheath with chamois (the stuff they sell for cleaning cars works just fine and will not damage the metal - you can get perfectly good chamois for the purpose at "Harbor Freight Tools" for about $10 for 3.5 sq. ft.).  You can easily attach it to the leather with a product like "Tanner's Leather Weld", which works well enough that additional fastening is not necessary, tho' it is my practice to roll the edges under and sew it to the formed pieces at the exposed edges (leaving about a 3/8th inch welt).  Extend the chamois far enough everywhere else to be secured by the stitching where the formed section meets the back section.  The natural chamois color, btw, looks lovely juxtaposed against the dyed black leather and the chamois will hold a nice amount of gun oil so that the gun remains nicely
                > lubricated within the holster, without feeling "greasy" on withdrawal of the weapon.
                >
                > I've also done some sheaths with this method, however, I like to line my sheaths with shearling (which is period, btw), which can also be oiled lightly for protection against rust (in the old days, they used natural, unprocessed shearling and relied on the natural lanolin for lubrication, however, most available shearling now has been thoroughly cleaned of its oils and the oil must be added - I like "Break-Out" gun oil for the job).  If you do that, of course, you need to wrap the blade (or pistol) with something which will allow the extra room to accommodate the shearling.  I find that either 1/4 inch closed cell foam or multiple layers of thick craft foam works well, after which you put the Saran wrap and tape on.  The nice part about the craft foam is that you can differentially build up the layers for a better fit (and a nicer exterior contour).
                >
                > Hope that helps.  Enjoy.
                >
                > YOS,
                > ALRIC, Glyn Dwfn/An Tir  
                >
              • Alan Andrist
                It’s my understanding that the mystery item is a planning chisel used to level a horse’s hoof before it receives a shoe. The hoof is soft enough to be
                Message 7 of 9 , Jul 27, 2010
                • 0 Attachment
                  It’s my understanding that the mystery item is a planning chisel used to level a horse’s hoof before it receives a shoe. The hoof is soft enough to be pared away without hurting the horse. The big rasps used today require less skill and are multipurpose.



                  -- Alan



                  From: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com [mailto:medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of B Gr
                  Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 3:09 PM
                  To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [medieval-leather] [Carolingia] Semi-OT: A puzzling thing





                  as that they are many and have onimtation on them could be strap pullers for moving straps thru slots. or even boot pulls for putting on those silly high toped boots.
                  without seeing bottoms for wear marks hard to say. but defenaly not a tool for cutting or marking leather.
                  lady Johannette

                  --- On Sun, 12/20/09, siggy@... <mailto:siggy%40toltusa.com> <siggy@... <mailto:siggy%40toltusa.com> > wrote:

                  From: siggy@... <mailto:siggy%40toltusa.com> <siggy@... <mailto:siggy%40toltusa.com> >
                  Subject: Re: [medieval-leather] [Carolingia] Semi-OT: A puzzling thing
                  To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com <mailto:medieval-leather%40yahoogroups.com>
                  Cc: Norsefolk_2@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Norsefolk_2%40yahoogroups.com>
                  Date: Sunday, December 20, 2009, 8:29 PM



                  I see several old horse twitches and an old fashion horse mouth speculum. Some could be castration tools. knocking teeth out (wolf teeth) or horn removal. May be even roaching a mane. Put it all together and ? cool tools

                  Sigrid





                  > I have a picture of this
                  >
                  > http://www.wiglaf org/~aaronm/ travel/paris2009 /troyes/Maison% 20de%20l% 27outil/Thing. jpg
                  >
                  > and another of a different instance of the same tool
                  >
                  > http://www.wiglaf org/~aaronm/ travel/paris2009 /troyes/Maison% 20de%20l% 27outil/Thing% 20closeup. jpg
                  >
                  > but I haven't a clue what they are. Does anybody recognize them?
                  > The handle of the first one is in the shape of a horse, but it
                  > doesn't lppk like any sort of farrier's tool I've seen before...
                  >
                  > The first one is probably 18th century, the second 19th...

                  It has been suggested this might be a leather-working tool; it
                  is not familiar to me. Does anyone here recognize it?

                  Diego Mundoz

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





                  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.