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Re: [medieval-leather] Re:New guy

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  • Copernicus Skygazer
    Not really, no. Veg tan is the best for that. You can always tool a thin piece of veg tan and sew it onto the latigo for decoration, YIS, Phillipos the Skeptic
    Message 1 of 8 , Jun 24, 2008
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      Not really, no. Veg tan is the best for that. You can always tool a thin
      piece of veg tan and sew it onto the latigo for decoration,
      YIS,
      Phillipos the Skeptic

      On Tue, 24 Jun 2008, antonio_di_giordani wrote:

      > Thanks, that helped a great bit. Can I tool on Latigo?
      >
      > --- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Christopher J
      > <ren_junkie@...> wrote:
      >>
      >> Welcome.
      >>  
      >> Unless you plan on using them as armour, they don't need to hold
      > shape. They'll just flex right into place when you lace or buckle
      > them on. Latigo is great for bracers. If you want to stamp or tool
      > some pretty designs into your leather, you'll want to use veg tan.
      > If it's just as a fashion accessory, even the veg should be light
      > enough to be flexible. Use a belt weight leather, regardless of what
      > type of leather you use.
      >>  
      >> Now if you're doing armour (vambraces), go with veg. After  you
      > cut it, make it wet. you can soak it or use a spray bottle to just
      > dampen it. Either works, but you want to wait until the leather
      > looks almost dry (it darkens when wet), but it still needs to feel
      > cool to the touch. Then, you roll it into the shape you want. You
      > can use the laces or straps to hold it that way either on or off
      > your arm. If you do it on your arms, it will shape exactly to the
      > shape of your arms. You can also do this with the lighter not-armour
      > bracers, but only in veg. Latigo isn't responsive to wet-forming.
      >>  
      >> And if you want it really hard, used the soak method, follow the
      > directions, and then put them on a foil-lined cookie sheet in your
      > oven at about 180 degrees, and check every 15 minutes until hard.
      > Let them sit out a couple days to completely air dry (if you bake
      > them totally dry, you'll have burnt spots, and those points will be
      > weak).
      >>  
      >> But for just regular costume bracers, they don't need to hold any
      > shape after cutting. Eventually they will just from use, but you
      > don't need to go out of your way to shape them.
      >>  
      >> Hope this helps,
      >> Christopher
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >>
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >

      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • antonio_di_giordani
      One last question(for now). I am doing a litle bit of tooling. But have seen some bracer,bags, and even armor that has been branded. Is that a period
      Message 2 of 8 , Jun 24, 2008
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        One last question(for now). I am doing a litle bit of tooling. But
        have seen some bracer,bags, and even armor that has been branded. Is
        that a period technique?

        --- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Copernicus Skygazer
        <muck@...> wrote:
        >
        > Not really, no. Veg tan is the best for that. You can always tool
        a thin
        > piece of veg tan and sew it onto the latigo for decoration,
        > YIS,
        > Phillipos the Skeptic
        >
        > On Tue, 24 Jun 2008, antonio_di_giordani wrote:
        >
        > > Thanks, that helped a great bit. Can I tool on Latigo?
        > >
        > > --- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Christopher J
        > > <ren_junkie@> wrote:
        > >>
        > >> Welcome.
        > >>  
        > >> Unless you plan on using them as armour, they don't need to hold
        > > shape. They'll just flex right into place when you lace or buckle
        > > them on. Latigo is great for bracers. If you want to stamp or
        tool
        > > some pretty designs into your leather, you'll want to use veg
        tan.
        > > If it's just as a fashion accessory, even the veg should be light
        > > enough to be flexible. Use a belt weight leather, regardless of
        what
        > > type of leather you use.
        > >>  
        > >> Now if you're doing armour (vambraces), go with veg. After  you
        > > cut it, make it wet. you can soak it or use a spray bottle to
        just
        > > dampen it. Either works, but you want to wait until the leather
        > > looks almost dry (it darkens when wet), but it still needs to
        feel
        > > cool to the touch. Then, you roll it into the shape you want. You
        > > can use the laces or straps to hold it that way either on or off
        > > your arm. If you do it on your arms, it will shape exactly to the
        > > shape of your arms. You can also do this with the lighter not-
        armour
        > > bracers, but only in veg. Latigo isn't responsive to wet-forming.
        > >>  
        > >> And if you want it really hard, used the soak method, follow the
        > > directions, and then put them on a foil-lined cookie sheet in
        your
        > > oven at about 180 degrees, and check every 15 minutes until hard.
        > > Let them sit out a couple days to completely air dry (if you bake
        > > them totally dry, you'll have burnt spots, and those points will
        be
        > > weak).
        > >>  
        > >> But for just regular costume bracers, they don't need to hold
        any
        > > shape after cutting. Eventually they will just from use, but you
        > > don't need to go out of your way to shape them.
        > >>  
        > >> Hope this helps,
        > >> Christopher
        > >>
        > >>
        > >>
        > >>
        > >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >>
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ------------------------------------
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > >
        > >
        > >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • Christopher J
        Well, the decorative stamping in book binding is done hot (according to the Binder at Colonial Williamsburg), but that isn t really a brand. It s a hot stamp
        Message 3 of 8 , Jun 26, 2008
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          Well, the decorative stamping in book binding is done hot (according to the Binder at Colonial Williamsburg), but that isn't really a brand. It's a hot stamp into damp leather. Veg tan, again. I wouldn't doubt that pyrography was used in period, tho.
           
          If you want to decorate latigo, get a woodburning kit. It sears just fine. Just make sure you buy a good kit. I think I was told copper heads rather than brass heads work better on hide.
           
          Christopher




          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • antonio_di_giordani
          Thanks for the help. I have a copper tiped woodburning kit, I was going to try it. I di not expect all this help, thanks alot. -- In
          Message 4 of 8 , Jun 26, 2008
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            Thanks for the help. I have a copper tiped woodburning kit, I was
            going to try it. I di not expect all this help, thanks alot.
            -- In medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com, Christopher J
            <ren_junkie@...> wrote:
            >
            > Well, the decorative stamping in book binding is done hot
            (according to the Binder at Colonial Williamsburg), but that isn't
            really a brand. It's a hot stamp into damp leather. Veg tan, again.
            I wouldn't doubt that pyrography was used in period, tho.
            >  
            > If you want to decorate latigo, get a woodburning kit. It sears
            just fine. Just make sure you buy a good kit. I think I was told
            copper heads rather than brass heads work better on hide.
            >  
            > Christopher
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            >
          • Christopher J
            No problem. That s why we re here.   Christopher [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
            Message 5 of 8 , Jun 27, 2008
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              No problem. That's why we're here.
               
              Christopher




              [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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