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Re:Hardening Leather Armor

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  • Peter Jelen
    Lots of crafters use the glue technique to firm up masks. You can use thinned Elmer (PVA) glue to plasticize and somewhat harden the leather. The leather
    Message 1 of 4 , Jun 19, 2008
      Lots of crafters use the glue technique to firm up masks. You can
      use thinned Elmer (PVA) glue to plasticize and somewhat harden the
      leather. The leather will still be bendable and the leather will
      soften up when it gets damp. Likely not something that you want in
      armor.

      I make commedia masks. They get wet from perspiration and should not
      melt on the actors face. After crafting the mask I use thinned
      polyurethane (think floor finish) and brush it into the leather from
      the back. This hardens the leather and is not susceptible to
      moisture softening.

      Try both/either on a piece of scrap and see if either is something
      that would work for you.

      Pete Jelen
    • Christopher J
      My suggestion is Titebond 3. Once it dries, it s water proof. Or at least heavily water resistant. Regular Elmer s stays water soluble. A 1 part glue to 10
      Message 2 of 4 , Jun 20, 2008
        My suggestion is Titebond 3. Once it dries, it's water proof. Or at least heavily water resistant. Regular Elmer's stays water soluble. A 1 part glue to 10 parts water ratio works well.
         
        Christopher




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      • Henry Plouse
        Let me second this recommendation - tho it is NOT suitable for all uses.  I use MinWax combination color/stain and polyurethane to not only color but also
        Message 3 of 4 , Jun 22, 2008
          Let me second this recommendation - tho' it is NOT suitable for all uses.  I use "MinWax" combination color/stain and polyurethane to not only color but also waterproof and further stiffen water-hardened leather.  You can get incredibly beautiful results with this and it works wonderfully for hardened leather, for instance, on shield facings (where the wood backing prevents flexing) and on things such as quivers and for the outside of drinking vessels, canteens and bottles (I use Enviro-Tech on the inside).  However, I would NOT use this on armor leather, because it will bend and flex under the assault of rattan swords and the polyurethane can crack and break down under those pressures.  If all you want is stiff and waterproof, this is great.  If you need flexibility and/or resilience, don't use it..
           
          YOS,
          ALRIC, Glyn Dwfn.  

          --- On Thu, 6/19/08, Peter Jelen <pjelen@...> wrote:

          From: Peter Jelen <pjelen@...>
          Subject: [medieval-leather] Re:Hardening Leather Armor
          To: medieval-leather@yahoogroups.com
          Date: Thursday, June 19, 2008, 4:14 AM






          Lots of crafters use the glue technique to firm up masks. You can
          use thinned Elmer (PVA) glue to plasticize and somewhat harden the
          leather. The leather will still be bendable and the leather will
          soften up when it gets damp. Likely not something that you want in
          armor.

          I make commedia masks. They get wet from perspiration and should not
          melt on the actors face. After crafting the mask I use thinned
          polyurethane (think floor finish) and brush it into the leather from
          the back. This hardens the leather and is not susceptible to
          moisture softening.

          Try both/either on a piece of scrap and see if either is something
          that would work for you.

          Pete Jelen


















          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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