11276Re: [medieval-leather] Re:Hardening Leather Armor
- Jun 22, 2008Let me second this recommendation - tho' it is NOT suitable for all uses. I use "MinWax" combination color/stain and polyurethane to not only color but also waterproof and further stiffen water-hardened leather. You can get incredibly beautiful results with this and it works wonderfully for hardened leather, for instance, on shield facings (where the wood backing prevents flexing) and on things such as quivers and for the outside of drinking vessels, canteens and bottles (I use Enviro-Tech on the inside). However, I would NOT use this on armor leather, because it will bend and flex under the assault of rattan swords and the polyurethane can crack and break down under those pressures. If all you want is stiff and waterproof, this is great. If you need flexibility and/or resilience, don't use it..
ALRIC, Glyn Dwfn.
--- On Thu, 6/19/08, Peter Jelen <pjelen@...> wrote:
From: Peter Jelen <pjelen@...>
Subject: [medieval-leather] Re:Hardening Leather Armor
Date: Thursday, June 19, 2008, 4:14 AM
Lots of crafters use the glue technique to firm up masks. You can
use thinned Elmer (PVA) glue to plasticize and somewhat harden the
leather. The leather will still be bendable and the leather will
soften up when it gets damp. Likely not something that you want in
I make commedia masks. They get wet from perspiration and should not
melt on the actors face. After crafting the mask I use thinned
polyurethane (think floor finish) and brush it into the leather from
the back. This hardens the leather and is not susceptible to
Try both/either on a piece of scrap and see if either is something
that would work for you.
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