10637Re: Wax OR water hardening leather.
- Mar 2, 2006In my experience baking the leather does not cause it to shrink
nearly as much as the dipping in hot water method. It also cause a
lot less discoloration.
You have trouble with the leather drying before you bake it? never
heard of that before. You need to soak it thoroughly before you do
anything with it. It should be in a bucket or a tub or something,
and soak till it stops bubbling. If the water isn't permiated all
the way thru, it woun't get as rigid as it ought. If you soaked it
right it will take a long time before it is even cased. Usually it's
hours after getting out of the water with my pieces before they're
cased. Then just do the baking at about 180. Dipping in hot water
does make it stretchy for a a while, but it usually doesn't soak all
the way thru (even tho it gets VERY rigid), hot water can suck
(owie), and the shrinkage is worse. It also is very hard to do that
with a breastplate. Sides, stretching thins the leather, making it a
bit weaker. If you hammer it, it compresses rather than stretches
allowing you to move leather to the spots you need more thickness
at, and it compresses it giving you better density.
Saddle lac after 20 minutes? I didn't know you could do that. Do you
keep baking after the saddle lac application? After 20 minutes my
leather is still often a bit floppy. My bake times go on usually for
hours, checking every 20 min. I've heard that rabbit glue works
great applied every 20 min or so of baking till it's dried. What's
you're ebay store?
--- In email@example.com, <khailil1180@...> wrote:
> My final comment. On this subject.
> The hardened leather items I sell on my Ebay store are treated
> This process is for veg tanned leather only. I fully make the
> ever it may be. Tool, dye and assemble.
> *** soak it throughly in a bucket of water. Then preheat
theoven to 180
> degrees. Set the timer for about 20 minutes and let them bake...
> out and let them air dry for a bit than spray them with saddle
lac.( It's a
> lacquer based finish, that will harden the leather somewhat.)
> . Say what you want, but this is what works for me. But that is
> leather work is all about. There is no one set way to do
> are many paths to ones desired results. That is a big part of my
day job at
> Tandy, instructing people how to get from point A to Point B
> project. Plus I have to factor in skill level & how much someone
> to spend.
> Thats my story, Im sticking to it.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alasdair Muckart" <silver@...>
> To: <firstname.lastname@example.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [medieval-leather] Re: Wax OR water hardening leather.
> > On Wednesday 01 March 2006 23:14, Jon Terris wrote:
> >> --- In email@example.com, <khailil1180@> wrote:
> >> > Have to agree, veg tanned works best when water hardened.
> >> Is that the general consensus?
> > I say "it depends". You can't water harden chrome-tanned
leather, and you
> > can't mould wax-hardened leather the way you can with water
> > tan.
> > Veg tan goes _really_ floppy and stretchy for a while after it
> > of
> > the hot water -- even more so than when soaked in cold water --
and can be
> > moulded into quite deep shapes that you can't do with chrome
> > leather.
> >> Does water hardening give a more rigid leather than wax
> > When it's warm, yes. When cold, not significantly but it all
> > the
> > leather, the wax, and the degree of water hardening.
> >> If so, will the technique of heating the leather and THEN
> >> water work or does it have to be dipped?
> > Water hardening is a very different process to wax hardening.
You want to
> > (gently) heat the leather before wax hardening to make sure it
is dry so
> > you
> > don't get inadvertent water hardening happening when damp
patches hit the
> > hot
> > wax. Having it warm also allows the wax to penetrate better
> > cools
> > down.
> > When water hardening, I've had more consistent results dipping
> > baking because I've had it dry out before it all really came up
to temp. I
> > soak the leather in warm water first and then dip it into 80c
> > harden
> > it. Keep careful control over the temperature, and read a whole
> > about
> > the subject before you try it :-)
> >> Again, I'm worried about ruining the work I've done so far- my
> >> experience of water dipped leather came out hard but VERY
> > The key thing to remember is that leather shrinks by around 30%
> > hardened. If you've built something without planning to water
> > from
> > the outset, then it's possibly not the best thing to do.
> > Because of the shrinkage, water hardening carved or incised
> > the
> > incisions to open very noticeably and the carving to distort.
Try it out
> > on
> > some scrap and you'll see what I mean. This shrinkage varies
> > what part of the hide you're working with too.
> >> Anyone have any advice on the safest way to do this without
> >> everything?
> > Read lots on it. Test pieces of different leathers, different
areas of the
> > hide, different carving, different temperatures of water and log
> > conditions and the results. Practice on larger differently
> > until you feel confident.
> > --
> > Al.
> > http://where.else.net.nz
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
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