10635Re: [medieval-leather] Re: Wax OR water hardening leather.
- Mar 1, 2006My final comment. On this subject.
The hardened leather items I sell on my Ebay store are treated this way.
This process is for veg tanned leather only. I fully make the piece, what
ever it may be. Tool, dye and assemble.
*** soak it throughly in a bucket of water. Then preheat theoven to 180
degrees. Set the timer for about 20 minutes and let them bake... take them
out and let them air dry for a bit than spray them with saddle lac.( It's a
lacquer based finish, that will harden the leather somewhat.)
. Say what you want, but this is what works for me. But that is what
leather work is all about. There is no one set way to do anything. There
are many paths to ones desired results. That is a big part of my day job at
Tandy, instructing people how to get from point A to Point B with their
project. Plus I have to factor in skill level & how much someone is willing
Thats my story, Im sticking to it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alasdair Muckart" <silver@...>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2006 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [medieval-leather] Re: Wax OR water hardening leather.
> On Wednesday 01 March 2006 23:14, Jon Terris wrote:
>> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, <khailil1180@...> wrote:
>> > Have to agree, veg tanned works best when water hardened.
>> Is that the general consensus?
> I say "it depends". You can't water harden chrome-tanned leather, and you
> can't mould wax-hardened leather the way you can with water hardened veg
> Veg tan goes _really_ floppy and stretchy for a while after it comes out
> the hot water -- even more so than when soaked in cold water -- and can be
> moulded into quite deep shapes that you can't do with chrome tanned
>> Does water hardening give a more rigid leather than wax hardening?
> When it's warm, yes. When cold, not significantly but it all depends on
> leather, the wax, and the degree of water hardening.
>> If so, will the technique of heating the leather and THEN applying
>> water work or does it have to be dipped?
> Water hardening is a very different process to wax hardening. You want to
> (gently) heat the leather before wax hardening to make sure it is dry so
> don't get inadvertent water hardening happening when damp patches hit the
> wax. Having it warm also allows the wax to penetrate better before it
> When water hardening, I've had more consistent results dipping rather than
> baking because I've had it dry out before it all really came up to temp. I
> soak the leather in warm water first and then dip it into 80c water to
> it. Keep careful control over the temperature, and read a whole bunch
> the subject before you try it :-)
>> Again, I'm worried about ruining the work I've done so far- my one
>> experience of water dipped leather came out hard but VERY scarred.
> The key thing to remember is that leather shrinks by around 30% when water
> hardened. If you've built something without planning to water harden it
> the outset, then it's possibly not the best thing to do.
> Because of the shrinkage, water hardening carved or incised leather causes
> incisions to open very noticeably and the carving to distort. Try it out
> some scrap and you'll see what I mean. This shrinkage varies depending on
> what part of the hide you're working with too.
>> Anyone have any advice on the safest way to do this without ruining
> Read lots on it. Test pieces of different leathers, different areas of the
> hide, different carving, different temperatures of water and log the
> conditions and the results. Practice on larger differently shaped pieces
> until you feel confident.
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