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Re: 2 cylinder Maxwell --engine breather?

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  • Tyler
    Hello Ron My name is Ralph Clayton I am a Maxwell owner.Would you contact me at 609 226 2338.I have several questions to ask you. Thanks - -- In
    Message 1 of 7 , Dec 2, 2008
      Hello Ron My name is Ralph Clayton I am a Maxwell owner.Would you
      contact me at 609 226 2338.I have several questions to ask you.
      Thanks -
      -- In maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com, "Vern Campbell"
      <dvcampbell@...> wrote:
      > Hello Ron:
      > Congratulations on completing the restoration, and welcome to
      the same
      > problems many of the rest of us have encountered. You will never
      stop all
      > the oil leaks, but for starters, you have about twice as much oil
      in the
      > crankcase as you need. About 3/4 of a quart will bring the level
      to the
      > bottom of the piston and cylinder wall. I have never had any
      success with
      > any sort of a dip stick, but it is simple to make up a sight
      gauge. If you
      > would like I can send you a picture and a sketch. It does not
      require any
      > modifications. The dip oilers do need the crankcase pressure to
      > Many have drilled a hole in the oil tank cap, or devised some vent,
      but this
      > defeats a needed operation. To stop the drippers when the engine
      is not
      > running, just shut off the drippers. Part of the problem is that
      as the
      > engine runs, some of the oil in the crankcase is thrown over the
      top of the
      > baffle between the engine and the transmission, and ends up in the
      > transmission. Often that means you have a surplus of oil in the
      > transmission and a shortage in the engine. The drippers are the
      only way by
      > design to add oil to the engine. We all do add oil by removing
      bolts and
      > pouring some in.
      > I have made up a seal for the shift shaft that comes out of the
      back of
      > the transmission. I have been able to slow down that leak, but not
      stop it
      > completely.
      > The carb needle valve I have made up will help in making the
      > less sensitive. It will not solve all the carb problems. With
      some work
      > the carb can be made to work reasonably well. Tim Simonsma has
      done some
      > work on this, and has good information.
      > Stick with the project, and all of these problems can either be
      > or you can learn to live with it. Stay in touch.
      > Vern Campbell
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
      > [mailto:maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Ronald
      > Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 11:23 AM
      > To: maxwellbriscoeowners@yahoogroups.com
      > Subject: [maxwellbriscoeowners] 2 cylinder Maxwell --engine
      > I am completing restoration of my two cylinder '06 Maxwell
      > (serial
      > L1460) to bring to Hershey this week. I had it started yesterday
      for the
      > first time and it ran OK but pushed oil out of several locations
      of the
      > engine while it ran. Oil exited around a couple bolts on the
      block, out
      > past the shift rail at the back of trans, but primarily out of a
      > hole
      > on the front side of the transmission housing directly in front
      of the
      > shift
      > rail. I had added about 1 1/2 quarts of oil in the trans and
      about the
      > same
      > in the engine when I buttoned them up a few weeks ago. I know
      that engine
      > crankcase pressure is used to pressurize the external oil tank
      for the
      > drip
      > lubrication but it seems that there is way too much crankcase
      > pressure.....or too much oil?...
      > Is there supposed to be some form of breather to vent pressure?
      There is a
      > 1/8th pipe plug in the top of the cambox cover that might be used
      to vent
      > the crankcase. I guess this is where you would use a rod as a dip
      stick to
      > check the oil level as there are no provisions to check oil level
      via a
      > plug
      > on the side of the case anywhere.
      > The engine is 'new' with new pistons, rings, rebored cylinders,
      > crankshaft, valve work and seals added to both the flywheel end
      > driveshaft end.
      > Any suggestions would be welcome. I am also interested in
      replacing the
      > carb main adjusting screw with one having a sharper needle end
      for finer
      > carb adjustment. Still haven't driven it at all following a 5 year
      > restoration and need to do so ASAP.
      > Ron Davis
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