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Re: [mach1mach2cnc] Re: incompatibility of cheapo chinese BOB and driver board

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  • Lynn Kasdorf
    Personally, having optical isolation makes me feel better, and since it is on the BOB and seems to be working, I see no reason to defeat it. If you read my
    Message 1 of 33 , Jul 14, 2013
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      Personally, having optical isolation makes me feel better, and since it
      is on the BOB and seems to be working, I see no reason to defeat it.

      If you read my original post (and the title of this thread) I am
      addressing the connection of the BOB OUTPUT to the DRIVER BOARD INPUT.
      The driver board (not the BOB) has optos on its inputs that are giving
      me trouble and they are unnecessary because the parallel port is ALREADY
      isolated. Here is the path:

      COMPUTER PAR. PORT -> OPTO-ISO -> BOB -> OPTO-ISO -> DRIVER BOARD ->
      STEPPER

      It is the 2nd set of optos that I'll be eliminating.

      LK


      On 7/14/2013 5:24 AM, twicky50 wrote:
      >
      > "If you are using a BOB in front of this board the optos are
      > redundant, and even if directly using the parallel port there is not
      > much risk in removing them.
      > I am using that board for a 3d printer and I added the jumpers and the
      > board is now working very well."
      >
      > I'm surprised to read the comments about people thinking the opto
      > isolators are not connected on the board. They work as far as I have
      > tested. (Unless only talking about the case when in combination with a
      > BOB?? In which case I don't know.)
      >
      > My advice to others considering removing the isolators is that doing
      > so is asking for trouble. They do work as is to protect your gear and
      > ARE there for a reason.
      >
      > Happily stringing a wire across a protective measure as a work around
      > to get the rest of the circuit going is NOT A SOLUTION. Its only all
      > great.... until its not, and then it is too late and your electronics
      > dead.
      >
      > I have killed too many DB25 ports while messing with unprotected
      > circuits in the past to want to do it yet again. You are usually ok
      > for a while (most of the time) and then it only takes one bad spike
      > from the circuit, or one mistaken wire touch or short. Poof. The port
      > (or other unprotected circuitry) is useless.
      >
      > So, IMO, circuit safety is extremely important, especially in CNC
      > boards where cutters are relying on things working correctly. There IS
      > A GOOD RISK to kill your ports without the optos.
      >
      > So my recommendation to anyone, contrary to others opinions, is to use
      > a solution that leaves the optos in place working to do what they were
      > designed to do!
      >
      > If you DO decide to take the very lazy approach and just wire across
      > the optos or remove them otherwise, do so knowing there is not, "not
      > much risk" in damage, but a GOOD RISK of damage and killing your
      > computer's DB25 port.
      >
      > A am not trying to start arguments, but the protection is there (and
      > working!) for a reason.
      >
      > That said, take the risk to remove optos if you think it is the right
      > choice for your gear. Personally, I would never go this route for a
      > solution.
      >
      > --- In mach1mach2cnc@yahoogroups.com
      > <mailto:mach1mach2cnc%40yahoogroups.com>, Ron Ginger <ronginger@...>
      > wrote:
      > >
      > > There is a much simpler fix. Simply replace the very slow opto-coupler
      > > chips with a jumper wire. This is detailed on the SeeMeCNC.com forum
      > and
      > > I believe also on CNCzone. If you are using a BOB in front of this
      > board
      > > the optos are redundant, and even if directly using the parallel port
      > > there is not much risk in removing them.
      > >
      > > I am using that board for a 3d printer and I added the jumpers and the
      > > board is now working very well.
      > >
      > > ron ginger
      > >
      > >
      > > >
      > > > Posted by: "twicky50"ianeachday@... twicky50
      > > > Date: Sun Jul 7, 2013 8:05 pm ((PDT))
      > > >
      > > > You are obviously well beyond my skill level in electronics, but you
      > > > could try this site:
      > > >
      > > >
      > http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-driv\
      > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-driv>>
      > > er-board-tb6560-chips/
      > > >
      > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-dri\
      > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-dri>>
      > > ver-board-tb6560-chips/>
      > > >
      > > > The guy seems to have put in some real effort to make a visual
      > guide for
      > > > the less technical Chinese TB6560 board owners amongst us.
      > > >
      > > > There are some very clear pictures. It shows exactly what to do and
      > > > were to make changes on the circuit boards.
      > > >
      > > > I am no expert, but I followed this site closely and made changes
      > > > relatively quickly and easily. I have other problems with my CNC
      > > > backlash, etc, still, but this fix did seem to help the controller
      > board
      > > > situation. I do not regret buying the controller board anymore at
      > > > least...
      > >
      >
      >



      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • Lynn Kasdorf
      Personally, having optical isolation makes me feel better, and since it is on the BOB and seems to be working, I see no reason to defeat it. If you read my
      Message 33 of 33 , Jul 14, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        Personally, having optical isolation makes me feel better, and since it
        is on the BOB and seems to be working, I see no reason to defeat it.

        If you read my original post (and the title of this thread) I am
        addressing the connection of the BOB OUTPUT to the DRIVER BOARD INPUT.
        The driver board (not the BOB) has optos on its inputs that are giving
        me trouble and they are unnecessary because the parallel port is ALREADY
        isolated. Here is the path:

        COMPUTER PAR. PORT -> OPTO-ISO -> BOB -> OPTO-ISO -> DRIVER BOARD ->
        STEPPER

        It is the 2nd set of optos that I'll be eliminating.

        LK


        On 7/14/2013 5:24 AM, twicky50 wrote:
        >
        > "If you are using a BOB in front of this board the optos are
        > redundant, and even if directly using the parallel port there is not
        > much risk in removing them.
        > I am using that board for a 3d printer and I added the jumpers and the
        > board is now working very well."
        >
        > I'm surprised to read the comments about people thinking the opto
        > isolators are not connected on the board. They work as far as I have
        > tested. (Unless only talking about the case when in combination with a
        > BOB?? In which case I don't know.)
        >
        > My advice to others considering removing the isolators is that doing
        > so is asking for trouble. They do work as is to protect your gear and
        > ARE there for a reason.
        >
        > Happily stringing a wire across a protective measure as a work around
        > to get the rest of the circuit going is NOT A SOLUTION. Its only all
        > great.... until its not, and then it is too late and your electronics
        > dead.
        >
        > I have killed too many DB25 ports while messing with unprotected
        > circuits in the past to want to do it yet again. You are usually ok
        > for a while (most of the time) and then it only takes one bad spike
        > from the circuit, or one mistaken wire touch or short. Poof. The port
        > (or other unprotected circuitry) is useless.
        >
        > So, IMO, circuit safety is extremely important, especially in CNC
        > boards where cutters are relying on things working correctly. There IS
        > A GOOD RISK to kill your ports without the optos.
        >
        > So my recommendation to anyone, contrary to others opinions, is to use
        > a solution that leaves the optos in place working to do what they were
        > designed to do!
        >
        > If you DO decide to take the very lazy approach and just wire across
        > the optos or remove them otherwise, do so knowing there is not, "not
        > much risk" in damage, but a GOOD RISK of damage and killing your
        > computer's DB25 port.
        >
        > A am not trying to start arguments, but the protection is there (and
        > working!) for a reason.
        >
        > That said, take the risk to remove optos if you think it is the right
        > choice for your gear. Personally, I would never go this route for a
        > solution.
        >
        > --- In mach1mach2cnc@yahoogroups.com
        > <mailto:mach1mach2cnc%40yahoogroups.com>, Ron Ginger <ronginger@...>
        > wrote:
        > >
        > > There is a much simpler fix. Simply replace the very slow opto-coupler
        > > chips with a jumper wire. This is detailed on the SeeMeCNC.com forum
        > and
        > > I believe also on CNCzone. If you are using a BOB in front of this
        > board
        > > the optos are redundant, and even if directly using the parallel port
        > > there is not much risk in removing them.
        > >
        > > I am using that board for a 3d printer and I added the jumpers and the
        > > board is now working very well.
        > >
        > > ron ginger
        > >
        > >
        > > >
        > > > Posted by: "twicky50"ianeachday@... twicky50
        > > > Date: Sun Jul 7, 2013 8:05 pm ((PDT))
        > > >
        > > > You are obviously well beyond my skill level in electronics, but you
        > > > could try this site:
        > > >
        > > >
        > http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-driv\
        > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-driv>>
        > > er-board-tb6560-chips/
        > > >
        > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-dri\
        > <http://www.homediystuff.com/fixing-a-chinese-made-cnc-stepper-motor-dri>>
        > > ver-board-tb6560-chips/>
        > > >
        > > > The guy seems to have put in some real effort to make a visual
        > guide for
        > > > the less technical Chinese TB6560 board owners amongst us.
        > > >
        > > > There are some very clear pictures. It shows exactly what to do and
        > > > were to make changes on the circuit boards.
        > > >
        > > > I am no expert, but I followed this site closely and made changes
        > > > relatively quickly and easily. I have other problems with my CNC
        > > > backlash, etc, still, but this fix did seem to help the controller
        > board
        > > > situation. I do not regret buying the controller board anymore at
        > > > least...
        > >
        >
        >



        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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