New members and details of mods to M19
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See the photos of these two mods in the photo section. The kick
up rudder system was incredibly easy to do and cheap. I drilled
a hole in the rudders just below the rudder tube, clamped a
stainless cable(you can use galvanized parts available at
hardware, Lowe's etc, cheaper than marine stuff) in a loop
between the two rudders with enough slack so the rudders can
still be raised and bolted for transport.
The cable goes up thru the rudder tube through holes drilled in
the stainless rudder arms. Stainless doesn't dissipate heat so
drill slowly and keep the bit cool. I chamfered (countersunk) the
hole so the cable won't wear on the sharp edge. The cable slack
is held up by bungee cords. I used three while we were sailing,
the same ones I use to tie down the mast and rigging. If you hit
a shallow spot, the rudders kick up then swing down again when
it's deeper. Much simpler than using the stupid shear pins/bolts
which are hard to replace underwater while sailing.
My spare tire was a throwaway mini spare. Believe it's a Ford lug
pattern. Measure the center hole and bolt to bolt space to be
sure. Available cheap at junk yards. Rated at 1630 pound
capacity but only 50 mph 400 mile range but better than being
stuck at midnight without a spare and at least $100 cheaper than
a proper spare. Make sure your lug wrench fits the lug nuts and
that they can be easily removed and your towing vehicle jack will
work. You may need a wood block to raise it. You can buy a U
bolt but I had some 1/2" threaded rod I bent into a U bolt and
drilled a 1/2" hole in the wheel so the rod support was balanced.
I also drilled two small drain holes at the low spot of the wheel.
You can buy a bracket to hold a spare upright at a 45 degree
angle near the bow but this was simple and cheap.
I'll be sending photos and making and installing info on an
instrument/radio etc. panel that hinges so you can see it from
cockpit or cabin and doesn't require drilling bulkhead holes. I
copied it from Randy's boat located about an hour from me along
with other helpful hints.
I'm also working on a minor leak from the ballast tank to the
exterior, probably at the centerboard pivot. Compared to all the
leak problems being discussed on the 26x list, this is minor and
doesn't affect anything other than speed under power if you don't
empty the ballast more often.
Post any other problems, suggestions, etc. thanks, Mike (A.M. or
A.W. =yahoo names)