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New members and details of mods to M19

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  • Angelo Michelotti
    Hi, new members. If you re interested in the M19 post something about yourself or add a photo. Otherwise you can always unsubscribe under edit my
    Message 1 of 1 , Oct 5, 2002
      Hi,
      new members. If you're interested in the M19 post something
      about yourself or add a photo. Otherwise you can always
      unsubscribe under "edit my membership" after you access
      Home.

      See the photos of these two mods in the photo section. The kick
      up rudder system was incredibly easy to do and cheap. I drilled
      a hole in the rudders just below the rudder tube, clamped a
      stainless cable(you can use galvanized parts available at
      hardware, Lowe's etc, cheaper than marine stuff) in a loop
      between the two rudders with enough slack so the rudders can
      still be raised and bolted for transport.

      The cable goes up thru the rudder tube through holes drilled in
      the stainless rudder arms. Stainless doesn't dissipate heat so
      drill slowly and keep the bit cool. I chamfered (countersunk) the
      hole so the cable won't wear on the sharp edge. The cable slack
      is held up by bungee cords. I used three while we were sailing,
      the same ones I use to tie down the mast and rigging. If you hit
      a shallow spot, the rudders kick up then swing down again when
      it's deeper. Much simpler than using the stupid shear pins/bolts
      which are hard to replace underwater while sailing.

      My spare tire was a throwaway mini spare. Believe it's a Ford lug
      pattern. Measure the center hole and bolt to bolt space to be
      sure. Available cheap at junk yards. Rated at 1630 pound
      capacity but only 50 mph 400 mile range but better than being
      stuck at midnight without a spare and at least $100 cheaper than
      a proper spare. Make sure your lug wrench fits the lug nuts and
      that they can be easily removed and your towing vehicle jack will
      work. You may need a wood block to raise it. You can buy a U
      bolt but I had some 1/2" threaded rod I bent into a U bolt and
      drilled a 1/2" hole in the wheel so the rod support was balanced.
      I also drilled two small drain holes at the low spot of the wheel.
      You can buy a bracket to hold a spare upright at a 45 degree
      angle near the bow but this was simple and cheap.

      I'll be sending photos and making and installing info on an
      instrument/radio etc. panel that hinges so you can see it from
      cockpit or cabin and doesn't require drilling bulkhead holes. I
      copied it from Randy's boat located about an hour from me along
      with other helpful hints.
      I'm also working on a minor leak from the ballast tank to the
      exterior, probably at the centerboard pivot. Compared to all the
      leak problems being discussed on the 26x list, this is minor and
      doesn't affect anything other than speed under power if you don't
      empty the ballast more often.

      Post any other problems, suggestions, etc. thanks, Mike (A.M. or
      A.W. =yahoo names)
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