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Re: tunnel

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  • Rick & Lesley Hargraves
    Hi Ken, The entrance to my transmission (T50) is 250mm wide (10 ) and it fits. Cheers, Rick H. ... From: Ken Walton To:
    Message 1 of 5 , May 1, 1999
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      Hi Ken,

      The entrance to my transmission (T50) is 250mm wide (10" ) and it fits.

      Cheers, Rick H.


      -----Original Message-----
      From: Ken Walton <kenwrace@...>
      To: locost@onelist.com <locost@onelist.com>
      Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 4:20
      Subject: [locost] tunnel


      >From: Ken Walton <kenwrace@...>
      >
      >reply basedon Peter Crabb's query about tunnel dimensions-after using
      >the Sawzall eraser on my chassis to fit a MGB I think the prudent thing
      >is to leave out the top diagonal over the engine bay and all the tunnel
      >tubes as well as the two inner "H" tubes until you test fit the engine.
      >I wound up sawing out seven tubes and redesigning the tunnel to get old
      >fat ass bessie in place and the top one over the bay is now two shorter
      >ones on each side. Two steps forward-one back is the way this whole
      >project works. The drawings are based on the 1300-after that you are on
      >your own and as you find all the differences around the world supply of
      >junk yard dogs to use-lots of self engineering to fit the bits.
      >seeeeya-Ken
      >
      >
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      >
    • polan@xx.xxx.xxx
      Ken, I m interested in your MGB design. I was thinking of doing the same thing, but found that the engine was too tall, seemed that it would destroy the
      Message 2 of 5 , May 4, 1999
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        Ken, I'm interested in your MGB design. I was thinking of doing the same
        thing, but found that the engine was too tall, seemed that it would destroy
        the bonnet line. The engine plate at the bottom really removes any chance
        of shortening the sump. I also found a pretty good deal on a GTS, so I put
        it on the back burner. I'm waiting for Ron Champions next book which some
        have suggested will have a design for a pre-war MG replica (I don't recall
        the name, the one just before the T series I think). Seems like that would
        be a better home for my MGB, as it has a taller profile (plus the noise
        from the SUs and cast iron block would be better suited!) - there are some
        pictures on the web that looked pretty good.

        Ron's MG design seems to be pretty much the locost chassis, with some
        external modifications, so I'd guess his donor, dimensions and suspension
        are pretty much similar to the current locost. If Ron doesn't come out
        with a book by the time I'm done my locost, I may try my hand at designing
        my own version of the MG based on the pictures I've seen. So you can see
        why I'm interested in what you're doing - engine, tranny, suspension will
        all likely be the same as your version. Do you have anything you can share
        with us? What difficulties you've found and improvisations you've made?

        Thanks Ken!

        Mike Polan
        polan@...




        Ken Walton <kenwrace@...> on 04/30/99 08:40:43 AM

        Please respond to locost@onelist.com

        To: locost@onelist.com
        cc: (bcc: Mike Polan/Toronto/IBM)
        Subject: [locost] tunnel





        From: Ken Walton <kenwrace@...>

        reply basedon Peter Crabb's query about tunnel dimensions-after using
        the Sawzall eraser on my chassis to fit a MGB I think the prudent thing
        is to leave out the top diagonal over the engine bay and all the tunnel
        tubes as well as the two inner "H" tubes until you test fit the engine.
        I wound up sawing out seven tubes and redesigning the tunnel to get old
        fat ass bessie in place and the top one over the bay is now two shorter
        ones on each side. Two steps forward-one back is the way this whole
        project works. The drawings are based on the 1300-after that you are on
        your own and as you find all the differences around the world supply of
        junk yard dogs to use-lots of self engineering to fit the bits.
        seeeeya-Ken


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      • Ken Walton
        Dave - set the engine in place with the trans before doing the tunnel and fit it to what you have. you will have the engine in and out a bunch of times before
        Message 3 of 5 , Mar 20 5:28 AM
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          Dave - set the engine in place with the trans before doing the tunnel
          and fit it to what you have. you will have the engine in and out a bunch
          of times before you sort tunnel, mounts, etc. seeeeya-Ken
        • Ken Walton
          Tony-set your engine and trans in place temporarily before building tunnel-fit the tunnel to what you have. if you want straight sides-make them! I used the
          Message 4 of 5 , Aug 12, 2001
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            Tony-set your engine and trans in place temporarily before building
            tunnel-fit the tunnel to what you have. if you want straight sides-make
            them! I used the book tunnel and then had to remove and redesign half of
            it while fitting the MG lump-larger engine and industrial size gearbox.
            there was one lump on the side of the trans, driver side, that I pounded
            a 1" dent into the panel to save moving the whole wall into the foot
            area any further. you will find the foot area crowded. I am thinking
            about some sort of a "boot hook" style rest for the left foot because
            after two one hour runs back to back I was really wondering what to do
            with that foot while just hammering down the road. seeeeya-Ken
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