Your problem with just getting just a single slug out is probably due to not
enough heat in the throat of the pot. I assume the control is turned up
enough. Bad news, or terrible news. The mouthpiece wiring is such that the
heaters are in parallel. So you could get a mouthpiece circuit continuity
reading even if one were open. An ohms test never was reliable for me. If you
have a very old machine, remove the little box on the pot bottom (POWER OFF!)
You might find a broken wire or a lot of metal down there. Disconnect one
wire and check heater for continuity. If ok, clean out and replace wire
and cover. Then take the L shaped plate off the top of the pot at the front.
Make the same test on the top heater. I think you can check the bottom heater
here also on the newer pots without pulling the lid. Its been a long time!
Four screws at the corners. If the top heater is open, not too bad of a job.
The bottom one?? Aggggh! Probabaly the worst repair you will ever have to
make. I would rather replace a cam! To get at the bottom heater, you have to
pull the crucible. Let me know your progress before we get to that. This is
for the old Merg pots.
- LINOFISH WROTE:
>If ok, clean out and replace wireWhat does one use to clean the electric heating element terminals? Mine
are very rusty, but I've been wary of spraying anything on them and when I
twisted one too tightly it just broke off, so I had to go back and
re-attach the element with an appliance terminal to get it to heat up
- Leave the wires as is.If they are tight current will flow through.The wires
in the pot are covered with asbestos and will fray when handled too often.
> From: edinman <edinman@...>I
> To: LETPRESS@...
> Subject: Re: No SLUGS
> Date: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 8:26 AM
> LINOFISH WROTE:
> >If ok, clean out and replace wire
> >and cover.
> What does one use to clean the electric heating element terminals? Mine
> are very rusty, but I've been wary of spraying anything on them and when
> twisted one too tightly it just broke off, so I had to go back and
> re-attach the element with an appliance terminal to get it to heat up