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Re: Thread Cutting

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  • marvinstovall
    Ed, Thanks for the compliment on the file handles. I got the idea from Guy Lautard Third Machinist Bedside Reader , page 107. The original was printed in
    Message 1 of 9 , Sep 26, 2006
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      Ed,

      Thanks for the compliment on the file handles. I got the idea from
      Guy Lautard" "Third Machinist Bedside Reader", page 107. The original
      was printed in an article by Bob Patrick in "Projects in Metal" (Dec
      89, page 8). It has a diagram to measure your hand and formulas for
      determining the dimentions for making file handles to custom fit your
      hand. Obviously the smaller handle doesn't custom fit my hand but is
      really nice for handling those small needle files. I did the first
      file handle on my Lathemaster 8x14. The others were rough cut on my
      CNC Atlas lathe then finished on my Lathemaster. I spiced them up
      some with inlaid brass and copper. The one with the copper end, I cut
      a groove with a parting tool then filled it with silver solder then
      turned it down and polished it. The brass ferrules were made from
      5/8" brass compression nuts from the hardware store.

      Marv


      -- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, ecronin <edward_cronin@...> wrote:
      >
      > Marv,
      >
      > Not sure about your threading problem, but while looking at your
      photo's I noticed your file handles. They are beautiful. Do you have
      info on how you made these?
      >
      > Thanks, Ed
      >
      > marvinstovall <lstovall@...> wrote:
      > Hi everyone,
      >
      > While cutting threads on some 5/16" brass, 24 TPI, I notice that
      > every other thread is slightly narrower. Has anyone else noticed this
      > or is it just me? Could it be caused by slight inaccuracies in the
      > carriage lead screw or something else? The threads work fine, 5/16 x
      > 24 nuts screw on easily and just as good as on a store bought bolt.
      > The threads just looks somewhat irregular. It isn't as noticable on
      > course threads. I have posted a photo of some threads I started in
      > the "Marv/QCTP & More" folder.
      >
      > Thanks,
      > Marv
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ---------------------------------
      > All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things
      done faster.
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
    • ecronin
      Thanks so much for the info Marv. It looks like I need to add a few more books to my collection so I can make a set for myself. Keep the chipsflyn. Ed
      Message 2 of 9 , Sep 26, 2006
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        Thanks so much for the info Marv.
        It looks like I need to add a few more books to my collection so I can make
        a set for myself.

        Keep the chipsflyn. Ed

        marvinstovall <lstovall@...> wrote:
        Ed,

        Thanks for the compliment on the file handles. I got the idea from
        Guy Lautard" "Third Machinist Bedside Reader", page 107. The original
        was printed in an article by Bob Patrick in "Projects in Metal" (Dec
        89, page 8). It has a diagram to measure your hand and formulas for
        determining the dimentions for making file handles to custom fit your
        hand. Obviously the smaller handle doesn't custom fit my hand but is
        really nice for handling those small needle files. I did the first
        file handle on my Lathemaster 8x14. The others were rough cut on my
        CNC Atlas lathe then finished on my Lathemaster. I spiced them up
        some with inlaid brass and copper. The one with the copper end, I cut
        a groove with a parting tool then filled it with silver solder then
        turned it down and polished it. The brass ferrules were made from
        5/8" brass compression nuts from the hardware store.

        Marv

        -- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, ecronin <edward_cronin@...> wrote:
        >
        > Marv,
        >
        > Not sure about your threading problem, but while looking at your
        photo's I noticed your file handles. They are beautiful. Do you have
        info on how you made these?
        >
        > Thanks, Ed
        >
        > marvinstovall <lstovall@...> wrote:
        > Hi everyone,
        >
        > While cutting threads on some 5/16" brass, 24 TPI, I notice that
        > every other thread is slightly narrower. Has anyone else noticed this
        > or is it just me? Could it be caused by slight inaccuracies in the
        > carriage lead screw or something else? The threads work fine, 5/16 x
        > 24 nuts screw on easily and just as good as on a store bought bolt.
        > The threads just looks somewhat irregular. It isn't as noticable on
        > course threads. I have posted a photo of some threads I started in
        > the "Marv/QCTP & More" folder.
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Marv
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > ---------------------------------
        > All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things
        done faster.
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >






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      • William Howell
        I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar end links. I need the maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends with the maximum amount of support
        Message 3 of 9 , Sep 27, 2006
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          I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar end links. I need the
          maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends with the maximum amount of
          support for the mounting bolt, so I need to chamfer the end of the bushings.
          It's probably a 0.20" x 0.20" (i.e. 45 degrees) chamfer on a piece of
          material that's 1.0" OD. What's going to be the best way to do this on an
          8x14 Lathemaster? I don't have any attachments other than a QRTP.

          Also, I know I must be doing something really wrong, but I have a heck of a
          time parting aluminum pieces larger than 1" OD or so. I've tried slower
          spindle speeds, faster speeds, going real light on the feed, heavy on the
          feed, etc. All with the same results; either the parting tool chatters so
          bad the work piece actually moves in the chuck, or the parting tool catches
          on the work piece and stops the lathe (usually screwing up the alignment of
          the work piece in the chuck).

          Also, are there any more accurate and larger 3 or 6 jaw chucks that will fit
          onto the 8x14 without too much (if any) modification?

          Thanks guys! I love my 8x14 Lathemaster, I just wish it had a quick change
          gear box and more capacity. I also haven't mastered machining mild steel,
          but I'm doing fairly well with aluminum.

          Regards,

          Billy
        • Ron Gerard
          Hi Bill, Make sure the top of your parting tool is at or slightly below the center line and you want a slower speed rather than a faster speed. Also make sure
          Message 4 of 9 , Sep 27, 2006
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            Hi Bill,
            Make sure the top of your parting tool is at or
            slightly below the center line and you want a slower
            speed rather than a faster speed. Also make sure the
            part-off blade is exactly 90 degrees to the spindle
            center line.
            Ron Gerard

            --- William Howell <billy@...>
            wrote:

            > I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar
            > end links. I need the
            > maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends
            > with the maximum amount of
            > support for the mounting bolt, so I need to chamfer
            > the end of the bushings.
            > It's probably a 0.20" x 0.20" (i.e. 45 degrees)
            > chamfer on a piece of
            > material that's 1.0" OD. What's going to be the
            > best way to do this on an
            > 8x14 Lathemaster? I don't have any attachments
            > other than a QRTP.
            >
            > Also, I know I must be doing something really wrong,
            > but I have a heck of a
            > time parting aluminum pieces larger than 1" OD or
            > so. I've tried slower
            > spindle speeds, faster speeds, going real light on
            > the feed, heavy on the
            > feed, etc. All with the same results; either the
            > parting tool chatters so
            > bad the work piece actually moves in the chuck, or
            > the parting tool catches
            > on the work piece and stops the lathe (usually
            > screwing up the alignment of
            > the work piece in the chuck).
            >
            > Also, are there any more accurate and larger 3 or 6
            > jaw chucks that will fit
            > onto the 8x14 without too much (if any)
            > modification?
            >
            > Thanks guys! I love my 8x14 Lathemaster, I just
            > wish it had a quick change
            > gear box and more capacity. I also haven't mastered
            > machining mild steel,
            > but I'm doing fairly well with aluminum.
            >
            > Regards,
            >
            > Billy
            >
            >


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          • marvinstovall
            Hi Billy, I m still pretty new to machining myself. I have found that parting is a slow and tedious process. I use the slowest rpm and a very slow feed and
            Message 5 of 9 , Sep 28, 2006
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              Hi Billy,

              I'm still pretty new to machining myself. I have found that
              parting is a slow and tedious process. I use the slowest rpm and a
              very slow feed and plenty of cutting fluid, either Tapmagic for
              Aluminum or A-9. I like the A-9 better. Lard or tapping fluid for
              parting steel. The cutting edge height is very critical for parting
              as well as the grind (rake and relief) on the parting tool. The
              larger diameter material requires the parting tool to protrude farther
              out from the support of the tool holder there by increasing the chance
              for chatter from the unsupported protion of the tool. I had mine set
              perfect till I parted a piece of 1 1/4" copper, tool grabbed and
              broke. I haven't got it tuned back up quite right yet. Also, my tool
              is 1/16" and I am going to get a 3/32" tool which should be a little
              more rigid.

              You should have gotten a 5", 4 jaw chuck with your lathe which
              would be more accurate than the 3 jaw but takes a little longer to set
              up. Lathemaster has a 5", 3 jaw also but I think you need to make a
              backing plate for it. I've been meaning to call Bob to see if he has
              a backing plate to fit and I have been wanting one myself but just
              haven't got one yet.

              As for the chamfer, I would set the compound at 45 degrees with
              the tool bit paralell to the bed of the lathe. Use the compound for
              the cut and move the cross slide out incrementally till you get the
              chamfer you are wanting. The outfeed on the cross slide should be
              about 0.300 to get what you are looking for. I'm sure there are other
              ways of doing it also.

              Good luck and have fun,
              Marv


              --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "William Howell" <billy@...> wrote:
              >
              > I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar end links. I
              need the
              > maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends with the maximum
              amount of
              > support for the mounting bolt, so I need to chamfer the end of the
              bushings.
              > It's probably a 0.20" x 0.20" (i.e. 45 degrees) chamfer on a piece of
              > material that's 1.0" OD. What's going to be the best way to do this
              on an
              > 8x14 Lathemaster? I don't have any attachments other than a QRTP.
              >
              > Also, I know I must be doing something really wrong, but I have a
              heck of a
              > time parting aluminum pieces larger than 1" OD or so. I've tried slower
              > spindle speeds, faster speeds, going real light on the feed, heavy
              on the
              > feed, etc. All with the same results; either the parting tool
              chatters so
              > bad the work piece actually moves in the chuck, or the parting tool
              catches
              > on the work piece and stops the lathe (usually screwing up the
              alignment of
              > the work piece in the chuck).
              >
              > Also, are there any more accurate and larger 3 or 6 jaw chucks that
              will fit
              > onto the 8x14 without too much (if any) modification?
              >
              > Thanks guys! I love my 8x14 Lathemaster, I just wish it had a quick
              change
              > gear box and more capacity. I also haven't mastered machining mild
              steel,
              > but I'm doing fairly well with aluminum.
              >
              > Regards,
              >
              > Billy
              >
            • marvinstovall
              Oops, Correction, the out feed on the cross slide should be 0.200. Sorry, Marv ... slower
              Message 6 of 9 , Sep 28, 2006
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                Oops, Correction, the out feed on the cross slide should be 0.200.

                Sorry,
                Marv


                --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" <lstovall@...> wrote:
                >
                > Hi Billy,
                >
                > I'm still pretty new to machining myself. I have found that
                > parting is a slow and tedious process. I use the slowest rpm and a
                > very slow feed and plenty of cutting fluid, either Tapmagic for
                > Aluminum or A-9. I like the A-9 better. Lard or tapping fluid for
                > parting steel. The cutting edge height is very critical for parting
                > as well as the grind (rake and relief) on the parting tool. The
                > larger diameter material requires the parting tool to protrude farther
                > out from the support of the tool holder there by increasing the chance
                > for chatter from the unsupported protion of the tool. I had mine set
                > perfect till I parted a piece of 1 1/4" copper, tool grabbed and
                > broke. I haven't got it tuned back up quite right yet. Also, my tool
                > is 1/16" and I am going to get a 3/32" tool which should be a little
                > more rigid.
                >
                > You should have gotten a 5", 4 jaw chuck with your lathe which
                > would be more accurate than the 3 jaw but takes a little longer to set
                > up. Lathemaster has a 5", 3 jaw also but I think you need to make a
                > backing plate for it. I've been meaning to call Bob to see if he has
                > a backing plate to fit and I have been wanting one myself but just
                > haven't got one yet.
                >
                > As for the chamfer, I would set the compound at 45 degrees with
                > the tool bit paralell to the bed of the lathe. Use the compound for
                > the cut and move the cross slide out incrementally till you get the
                > chamfer you are wanting. The outfeed on the cross slide should be
                > about 0.300 to get what you are looking for. I'm sure there are other
                > ways of doing it also.
                >
                > Good luck and have fun,
                > Marv
                >
                >
                > --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "William Howell" <billy@> wrote:
                > >
                > > I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar end links. I
                > need the
                > > maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends with the maximum
                > amount of
                > > support for the mounting bolt, so I need to chamfer the end of the
                > bushings.
                > > It's probably a 0.20" x 0.20" (i.e. 45 degrees) chamfer on a piece of
                > > material that's 1.0" OD. What's going to be the best way to do this
                > on an
                > > 8x14 Lathemaster? I don't have any attachments other than a QRTP.
                > >
                > > Also, I know I must be doing something really wrong, but I have a
                > heck of a
                > > time parting aluminum pieces larger than 1" OD or so. I've tried
                slower
                > > spindle speeds, faster speeds, going real light on the feed, heavy
                > on the
                > > feed, etc. All with the same results; either the parting tool
                > chatters so
                > > bad the work piece actually moves in the chuck, or the parting tool
                > catches
                > > on the work piece and stops the lathe (usually screwing up the
                > alignment of
                > > the work piece in the chuck).
                > >
                > > Also, are there any more accurate and larger 3 or 6 jaw chucks that
                > will fit
                > > onto the 8x14 without too much (if any) modification?
                > >
                > > Thanks guys! I love my 8x14 Lathemaster, I just wish it had a quick
                > change
                > > gear box and more capacity. I also haven't mastered machining mild
                > steel,
                > > but I'm doing fairly well with aluminum.
                > >
                > > Regards,
                > >
                > > Billy
                > >
                >
              • Green, James
                I see Marvin stated how to create a chamfer accurately...... I use the same method.... I purchased a Bison 5 3 jaw chuck from Enco and a backing plate from
                Message 7 of 9 , Sep 28, 2006
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                  I see Marvin stated how to create a chamfer accurately...... I use the
                  same method....

                  I purchased a Bison 5" 3 jaw chuck from Enco and a backing plate from
                  Bob. You will have to use a drill and counter-bore to drill out the
                  threaded holes in the backing plate. Since then I have added a collet
                  chuck from Lathe Master, now that's accurate...

                  I have the same problems when parting. This winter I am going to make a
                  parting tool holder that will get mounted on the back side of the cross
                  slide.. That should get rid of the chatter...

                  James

                  ________________________________

                  From: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com [mailto:lathemaster@yahoogroups.com]
                  On Behalf Of William Howell
                  Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:06 PM
                  To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [lathemaster] chamfers



                  I need to make some bushings for a set of sway bar end links. I need the
                  maximum amount of misalignment from the rod ends with the maximum amount
                  of
                  support for the mounting bolt, so I need to chamfer the end of the
                  bushings.
                  It's probably a 0.20" x 0.20" (i.e. 45 degrees) chamfer on a piece of
                  material that's 1.0" OD. What's going to be the best way to do this on
                  an
                  8x14 Lathemaster? I don't have any attachments other than a QRTP.

                  Also, I know I must be doing something really wrong, but I have a heck
                  of a
                  time parting aluminum pieces larger than 1" OD or so. I've tried slower
                  spindle speeds, faster speeds, going real light on the feed, heavy on
                  the
                  feed, etc. All with the same results; either the parting tool chatters
                  so
                  bad the work piece actually moves in the chuck, or the parting tool
                  catches
                  on the work piece and stops the lathe (usually screwing up the alignment
                  of
                  the work piece in the chuck).

                  Also, are there any more accurate and larger 3 or 6 jaw chucks that will
                  fit
                  onto the 8x14 without too much (if any) modification?

                  Thanks guys! I love my 8x14 Lathemaster, I just wish it had a quick
                  change
                  gear box and more capacity. I also haven't mastered machining mild
                  steel,
                  but I'm doing fairly well with aluminum.

                  Regards,

                  Billy






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