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Re: 1120 (was "unknown")

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  • Mel
    ... More accurate to say the back lines must have NO tension (well, nearly no tension). ... Seems about right to me. I recently changed my ARC tips to say
    Message 1 of 1 , Jan 24, 2002
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      pluvious2002 <dcl@...> wrote:

      > ... kite, a PL 1120 ...
      > I've read that the kites must
      > have proper brake line tension to launch and fly properly, without
      > backing down.

      More accurate to say the back lines must have NO tension (well, nearly no

      > One post suggested setting up the rear lines at least 6"
      > longer than the front main lines (with the mains and the chicken loop
      > up against the bar and the depower strap fully extended) then using the
      > strap to adjust for sufficient brake tension. Is this about right?

      Seems about right to me. I recently changed my "ARC tips" to say 6". It
      previously said "equal", but the wedged 1120, & 840, and the new factory
      wedged 840 seem to work better with at least 6".

      > how should I determine these (absolute) line lengths
      > for initial launch?

      Just measure your leaders.

      > I like the thought of
      > easing the kite up until I'm more familiar with it's flying
      > characteristics. Any pointers?

      Yes. To attain a slight amount of safety, go in VERY light winds at first
      (5 knots should be enough), & grab the back leaders about 12 or 18" up from
      the bar (tie a couple of knots for grip) so you've got LOTS of braking
      ability. Make sure you're set up with a good depowering leash system (see
      my group file folder, under "consumer model").

      > As I'll be testing out and familiarizing myself with the kite in light
      > winds, is there a preferred method of inflating the kite? In light
      > winds it doesn't seem like simply opening the velcro flap will be
      > enough,

      It is. It just takes a little while. The kite will launch with only about
      1/4 inflation, in steady winds, but when you're new I'd recommend waiting
      for at least 1/2 to 2/3 full first.

      > Steering doublers (rings or pullys). In theory, these seem great to me,
      > and easy to set up as well. My question is, if this setup is
      > manifestly superior for flying larger kites (like the 1120), why don't
      > the manufacturers (in my case PL), ship the kites with this
      > configuration?

      Because you really don't need it. I'm quite light at about 63kg, so I'm
      using my 1120 in pretty light winds (slower turning), yet the 30" free bar I
      use gives plenty of turning response.

      > Am I doing myself any serious
      > disservice by skipping the chicken loop, at least for now?

      Yes, at least for an ARC. They fly best with mainly front line tension
      (most of the load on the trim loop).

      > Snap shackles: it seems like these are a must for emergency release
      > once in the harness or chicken loop.

      Most will NOT release when you're in the main harness loop.

      > If I skip the chicken loop, for
      > now, do I need to install one on the main loop?

      "For now" if you skip the chicken loop, I'd suggest not even hooking into
      the main loop.

      > My (windsurfing)
      > harness has a release on it, but I assume that that will not be
      > suffucient for kitesurfing.

      That is correct.

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