Re: [ksurfschool] Mel, The safety photos
- <surfsup@...> wrote:
> Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. ChangingSounds even worse than Cabrillo.
> directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes.
> I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot airYeah, in those conditions you get enough "accidental air" that it's tough to
> at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.
avoid injury, without intentionally getting lofted.
> 1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line toThat should be okay with Q-Power line, but may weaken unsleeved plain line
> attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
> LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).
(even if that's really a "captured" clove hitch - as pictured in my "Mel's
Stuff" group folder).
Here's another idea for a stopper in the middle of a length of Q-Line: get a
CHEAP plastic ring (69 cents at www.westmarine.com # 283848, Ronstan #
PNP52C), hold the line at the point where the stopper needs to be (to stop
the bar from sliding too far up towards the kite), fold it AS IF you were
going to tie a loop at that point (but don't actually tie it), & just feed
that loop through the ring, over the end & back, just like you would if
there was a knotted loop in the end of a line to lark's head around a ring.
Cheap, light, clean & easy. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
> 2) xpulley - ...feeds one of the lines through theSlick. Even with plain line you can eliminate the front leaders completely
> top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely
if you want, just lark's head the end loops over the appropriate rings. If
the sewn loops are too small to go over the ring, make your own larger loop
by just doubling it back into a lark's head. In other words, take your tiny
sewn loop & form a big lark's head out of it. Now feed THAT loop through
the o-ring & over the end. That likely didn't make sense either!
By the way, once you stop adjusting it a lot, you can replace the pulley
itself with an o-ring.
> 3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar andLooks good. I thought that's how you had it before! If you aren't using
> the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
> the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
> get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
the safer wrist release, it will also be "metal-on-metal" with the trim loop
lark's headed through the fixed end of the shackle (looks to me like your
line will fit), & the open end "snapped" directly onto the spreader hook.
Keep in mind you still need to test the release (try to MAKE it stick),
because just "metal-to-metal" isn't enough, if the metal's bend radius is
> My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do aTry just shortening it. It only needs to be long enough to grab. Another
> wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
> line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
> does not flop around as much.
idea is fastening it out to one end of the spreader (next best thing to a
> I feel much better with the grab ballYou can put it on the other hand. With a tiny bit of practice it's pretty
> approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
> amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
> was aggravating my shoulder.
easy to fly one-handed with EITHER hand (& use the other to grab the board).
Of course with an ARC in steady wind it takes NO practice at all to fly NO