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Mel, The safety photos

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  • surfsup@ragingbull.com
    Okay, I had the day off for court (which I lost to the tune of $980.00 arrrgggghhhh...) and got the photos after flying the kite for an hour, or so this
    Message 1 of 13 , Nov 2, 2001
      Okay, I had the day off for court (which I lost to the tune of $980.00
      arrrgggghhhh...) and got the photos after flying the kite for an hour,
      or so this afternoon. Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. Changing
      directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes. A pain in the butt trying to
      work the edges of the window. I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot air
      at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.

      Four new photos and I got rid of a couple old ones (the four new ones
      start with an "X"):

      http://groups.yahoo.com/group/kitesurf/files/surfsup/

      1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line to
      attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
      LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).

      2) xpulley - shows the modification to "diagram.jpg" which eliminates
      the extra O-ring at the pulley and feeds one of the lines through the
      top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely
      through. The wrist-leash (which as you said can be attached to the
      harness) would be attached to the Oring so that if I let go of the bar
      and pull the stopper ball on the snapshackle (next photo), it will
      completely depower the kite and leave me free.

      3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar and
      the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
      the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
      get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
      time.

      4) xscrew_gate2 is just the same but a different angle.

      My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do a
      wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
      line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
      does not flop around as much. One thing I didn't mention about the
      wrist activated release (or maybe I did and forgot) was my rotator
      cuff injury. With that, I feel much better with the grab ball
      approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
      amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
      was aggravating my shoulder.

      I'm also going to draw up with the computer CAD software a better
      diagram that is not a photo so its more easily read, with better
      comments to help others. I'll put in the options we talked about. Let
      me know what you think so far. I think its pretty good (always room
      for improvement but SOOOOOO much better than what I started with,
      which was NOTHING). I feel much safer, but realize there are still
      many uncertainties and will continue to test/modify as you suggested.

      V
    • Mel
      ... Sounds even worse than Cabrillo. ... Yeah, in those conditions you get enough accidental air that it s tough to avoid injury, without intentionally
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 2, 2001
        <surfsup@...> wrote:

        > Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. Changing
        > directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes.

        Sounds even worse than Cabrillo.

        > I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot air
        > at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.

        Yeah, in those conditions you get enough "accidental air" that it's tough to
        avoid injury, without intentionally getting lofted.

        > 1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line to
        > attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
        > LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).

        That should be okay with Q-Power line, but may weaken unsleeved plain line
        (even if that's really a "captured" clove hitch - as pictured in my "Mel's
        Stuff" group folder).

        Here's another idea for a stopper in the middle of a length of Q-Line: get a
        CHEAP plastic ring (69 cents at www.westmarine.com # 283848, Ronstan #
        PNP52C), hold the line at the point where the stopper needs to be (to stop
        the bar from sliding too far up towards the kite), fold it AS IF you were
        going to tie a loop at that point (but don't actually tie it), & just feed
        that loop through the ring, over the end & back, just like you would if
        there was a knotted loop in the end of a line to lark's head around a ring.
        Cheap, light, clean & easy. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

        > 2) xpulley - ...feeds one of the lines through the
        > top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely

        Slick. Even with plain line you can eliminate the front leaders completely
        if you want, just lark's head the end loops over the appropriate rings. If
        the sewn loops are too small to go over the ring, make your own larger loop
        by just doubling it back into a lark's head. In other words, take your tiny
        sewn loop & form a big lark's head out of it. Now feed THAT loop through
        the o-ring & over the end. That likely didn't make sense either!

        By the way, once you stop adjusting it a lot, you can replace the pulley
        itself with an o-ring.

        > 3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar and
        > the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
        > the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
        > get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
        > time.

        Looks good. I thought that's how you had it before! If you aren't using
        the safer wrist release, it will also be "metal-on-metal" with the trim loop
        lark's headed through the fixed end of the shackle (looks to me like your
        line will fit), & the open end "snapped" directly onto the spreader hook.
        Keep in mind you still need to test the release (try to MAKE it stick),
        because just "metal-to-metal" isn't enough, if the metal's bend radius is
        too small.

        > My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do a
        > wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
        > line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
        > does not flop around as much.

        Try just shortening it. It only needs to be long enough to grab. Another
        idea is fastening it out to one end of the spreader (next best thing to a
        wrist-activated release).

        > I feel much better with the grab ball
        > approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
        > amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
        > was aggravating my shoulder.

        You can put it on the other hand. With a tiny bit of practice it's pretty
        easy to fly one-handed with EITHER hand (& use the other to grab the board).
        Of course with an ARC in steady wind it takes NO practice at all to fly NO
        handed...

        Mel
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