Re: Mel - The ARC 630
- Hi guys,
> That is usually quite unsafe (unreliable release). I'd suggestflipping the snap shackle "upside down" as described above. At the
very least you should open the shackle, & TRY to make the loop catch
on the little "bulb" at the tip. If it's at all possible to do so,
then it could also happen on the water, while you're getting dragged
head first towards some big jagged rocks (or a lawyer's kid).<
Lawyer's kid. LOL. Don't mention lawyers! I'm supposed to be in court
at 9 am tomorrow for some crap I didn't do! Arrrrggghhhh...
I'm not using the wrist leash since the wrist leash I have is attached
to the LE line O-ring. two wrist leashes is too much! I tested the
release and it works without snagging on anything since the lark's
head knot is gone from the trim loop now. It works good. Plus, I've
been "pretending" to pull the grab ball, even though I don't
sometimes, just to get used to the motion. I must admit, I feel
comfortable at this point and will continue to do this exercise.
>get or build a mountain board<I would get a mountain board, but snow's coming soon, so I would
rather build one instead of watching it sit there for 6 mos., but I
don't know how. I'll look into it. I have every tool imaginable so it
shouldn't be an issue of tooling.
Another option I was considering was putting the trim loop & the
spreader bar in the snap portion of the shackle. But I doubt I will do
this since the screw gate works fine.
BTW, the reason I don't lark's head the trim loop through the swivel
part of the shackle is that the shackle is too small to fit the loop
through. I didn't think I needed a larger shackle than the smallest
one they had - after all it was rated at something like 2300#
- <surfsup@...> wrote:
> I'm not using the wrist leash since the wrist leash I have is attachedPLEASE. Let's try to get the terms so they're distinguishable: Wrist leash
> to the LE line O-ring...
is an attachment between your wrist & the depowered kite (retains your kite
after it's been released). Wrist-activated release is an attachment between
your wrist & a snap shackle release mechanism (in order to activate the
release of the kite).
>. two wrist leashes is too much!There's really never any reason to attach the kite leash to your wrist (just
attach it to your harness or spreader). Attaching the RELEASE to your wrist
makes for some of the safest systems, since you never have to fumble around
for a release ball. Next safest I can think of would be having the release
line attached to the end of your spreader, so when you're fumbling, it's
always in exactly the same place. A problem with those two systems is that
they prevent the snap shackle from swiveling, AND they prevent "reversing"
the shackle (so it can "snap" directly onto the spreader hook).
> I tested theThat's still not enough. You need to actively attempt to MAKE it stick &
> release and it works...
hold with constant tension. Believe me, if it's at all possible to make it
catch it will happen when you least want it to. Maybe wet or sandy line
could stick, even if clean dry line doesn't. I don't think it's worth
rising life & limb.
> Another option I was considering was putting the trim loop & theThat sounds even less safe to me. I think it would take both hands to
> spreader bar in the snap portion of the shackle.
release, one to pull the line/ring & the other to keep the shackle from just
rotating when that line is pulled.
> BTW, the reason I don't lark's head the trim loop through the swivelThat seems unusual (I'll try to remember to check your photos again) but you
> part of the shackle is that the shackle is too small to fit the loop
could always just replace that part of the trim line with something slightly
thinner (it doesn't need to be special line to run through the bar), or make
a small loop to lark's head the closed end of the shackle onto the existing
loop. Sure you'd be adding a small piece of line, but you'd be eliminating
the bigger, heavier, more costly chain connector.
- Okay, I had the day off for court (which I lost to the tune of $980.00
arrrgggghhhh...) and got the photos after flying the kite for an hour,
or so this afternoon. Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. Changing
directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes. A pain in the butt trying to
work the edges of the window. I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot air
at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.
Four new photos and I got rid of a couple old ones (the four new ones
start with an "X"):
1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line to
attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).
2) xpulley - shows the modification to "diagram.jpg" which eliminates
the extra O-ring at the pulley and feeds one of the lines through the
top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely
through. The wrist-leash (which as you said can be attached to the
harness) would be attached to the Oring so that if I let go of the bar
and pull the stopper ball on the snapshackle (next photo), it will
completely depower the kite and leave me free.
3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar and
the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
4) xscrew_gate2 is just the same but a different angle.
My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do a
wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
does not flop around as much. One thing I didn't mention about the
wrist activated release (or maybe I did and forgot) was my rotator
cuff injury. With that, I feel much better with the grab ball
approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
was aggravating my shoulder.
I'm also going to draw up with the computer CAD software a better
diagram that is not a photo so its more easily read, with better
comments to help others. I'll put in the options we talked about. Let
me know what you think so far. I think its pretty good (always room
for improvement but SOOOOOO much better than what I started with,
which was NOTHING). I feel much safer, but realize there are still
many uncertainties and will continue to test/modify as you suggested.
- <surfsup@...> wrote:
> Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. ChangingSounds even worse than Cabrillo.
> directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes.
> I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot airYeah, in those conditions you get enough "accidental air" that it's tough to
> at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.
avoid injury, without intentionally getting lofted.
> 1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line toThat should be okay with Q-Power line, but may weaken unsleeved plain line
> attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
> LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).
(even if that's really a "captured" clove hitch - as pictured in my "Mel's
Stuff" group folder).
Here's another idea for a stopper in the middle of a length of Q-Line: get a
CHEAP plastic ring (69 cents at www.westmarine.com # 283848, Ronstan #
PNP52C), hold the line at the point where the stopper needs to be (to stop
the bar from sliding too far up towards the kite), fold it AS IF you were
going to tie a loop at that point (but don't actually tie it), & just feed
that loop through the ring, over the end & back, just like you would if
there was a knotted loop in the end of a line to lark's head around a ring.
Cheap, light, clean & easy. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
> 2) xpulley - ...feeds one of the lines through theSlick. Even with plain line you can eliminate the front leaders completely
> top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely
if you want, just lark's head the end loops over the appropriate rings. If
the sewn loops are too small to go over the ring, make your own larger loop
by just doubling it back into a lark's head. In other words, take your tiny
sewn loop & form a big lark's head out of it. Now feed THAT loop through
the o-ring & over the end. That likely didn't make sense either!
By the way, once you stop adjusting it a lot, you can replace the pulley
itself with an o-ring.
> 3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar andLooks good. I thought that's how you had it before! If you aren't using
> the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
> the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
> get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
the safer wrist release, it will also be "metal-on-metal" with the trim loop
lark's headed through the fixed end of the shackle (looks to me like your
line will fit), & the open end "snapped" directly onto the spreader hook.
Keep in mind you still need to test the release (try to MAKE it stick),
because just "metal-to-metal" isn't enough, if the metal's bend radius is
> My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do aTry just shortening it. It only needs to be long enough to grab. Another
> wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
> line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
> does not flop around as much.
idea is fastening it out to one end of the spreader (next best thing to a
> I feel much better with the grab ballYou can put it on the other hand. With a tiny bit of practice it's pretty
> approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
> amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
> was aggravating my shoulder.
easy to fly one-handed with EITHER hand (& use the other to grab the board).
Of course with an ARC in steady wind it takes NO practice at all to fly NO