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Re: Mel - The ARC 630

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  • xtremcata@yahoo.com
    ... want ... and ... Do like me, buy a mountainboard or make it and extend your season until the snow ! Now I can kite all year long :) Yeah! :) Luc ... kinda
    Message 1 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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      > > Jumping on land is never safe. Don't even bother, unless you
      want
      > to "get
      > > used to" being in the hospital. It's not worth it, because it's
      > way too
      > > easy to injure yourself enough to prevent further "practice" (on
      > land OR
      > > water). Jumping on the water is very easy to learn anyway, so
      > there's
      > > really no need to get used to it on land.
      >
      > But its so frickin' cold in Chicago now! I don't have a dry suit
      and
      > don't really want to buy one. I have a wetsuit, but the water's too
      > cold for that right now. So what do I do? I guess I'll fly and not
      > jump.

      Do like me, buy a mountainboard or make it and extend your season
      until the snow ! Now I can kite all year long :)
      Yeah! :)
      Luc



      >
      > I'll post the pictures probably Friday night/Sat night (getting
      kinda
      > busy right now to spend the time with the digital camera)
      >
      > V
    • Mel
      ... If you re not using a wrist-activated release it s just as easy to simply use the existing trim loop to lark s head around the closed end of the snap
      Message 2 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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        <surfsup@...> wrote:

        > Yeah, the screw gate is exactly what you are describing. I forgot the
        > name. It seems easy to set up and I just leave the snapshackle
        > attached all the time - even with the harness in the closet.

        If you're not using a wrist-activated release it's just as easy to simply
        use the existing trim loop to lark's head around the closed end of the snap
        shackle, & just "snap" it onto the hook of your spreader. It should release
        more reliably AND eliminate the need for the threaded chain connector. It's
        just as easy to set up. Instead of "just leave the snapshackle attached all
        the time" to the harness, it's attached all the time to the trim line.

        > I have the snapshackle head over the loop (so the loop goes through
        > the snapshackle release) and then I snap it in place. One tug and its
        > gone. I did this originally with the steel ring lark's head over the
        > trim loop, but what wound up happening is the little "bulb" at the
        > tip of the swivel opening of the shackle would wedge itself between
        > the lark's head knot sides and I would still be attached. So now it
        > goes right on the loop without the steel ring there.

        That is usually quite unsafe (unreliable release). I'd suggest flipping the
        snap shackle "upside down" as described above. At the very least you should
        open the shackle, & TRY to make the loop catch on the little "bulb" at the
        tip. If it's at all possible to do so, then it could also happen on the
        water, while you're getting dragged head first towards some big jagged rocks
        (or a lawyer's kid).

        Mel
      • surfsup@ragingbull.com
        Hi guys, ... flipping the snap shackle upside down as described above. At the very least you should open the shackle, & TRY to make the loop catch on the
        Message 3 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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          Hi guys,

          > That is usually quite unsafe (unreliable release). I'd suggest
          flipping the snap shackle "upside down" as described above. At the
          very least you should open the shackle, & TRY to make the loop catch
          on the little "bulb" at the tip. If it's at all possible to do so,
          then it could also happen on the water, while you're getting dragged
          head first towards some big jagged rocks (or a lawyer's kid).<

          Lawyer's kid. LOL. Don't mention lawyers! I'm supposed to be in court
          at 9 am tomorrow for some crap I didn't do! Arrrrggghhhh...

          I'm not using the wrist leash since the wrist leash I have is attached
          to the LE line O-ring. two wrist leashes is too much! I tested the
          release and it works without snagging on anything since the lark's
          head knot is gone from the trim loop now. It works good. Plus, I've
          been "pretending" to pull the grab ball, even though I don't
          sometimes, just to get used to the motion. I must admit, I feel
          comfortable at this point and will continue to do this exercise.

          >get or build a mountain board<

          I would get a mountain board, but snow's coming soon, so I would
          rather build one instead of watching it sit there for 6 mos., but I
          don't know how. I'll look into it. I have every tool imaginable so it
          shouldn't be an issue of tooling.

          Another option I was considering was putting the trim loop & the
          spreader bar in the snap portion of the shackle. But I doubt I will do
          this since the screw gate works fine.

          BTW, the reason I don't lark's head the trim loop through the swivel
          part of the shackle is that the shackle is too small to fit the loop
          through. I didn't think I needed a larger shackle than the smallest
          one they had - after all it was rated at something like 2300#
          strength.

          V
        • Mel
          ... PLEASE. Let s try to get the terms so they re distinguishable: Wrist leash is an attachment between your wrist & the depowered kite (retains your kite
          Message 4 of 13 , Nov 1, 2001
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            <surfsup@...> wrote:

            > I'm not using the wrist leash since the wrist leash I have is attached
            > to the LE line O-ring...

            PLEASE. Let's try to get the terms so they're distinguishable: Wrist leash
            is an attachment between your wrist & the depowered kite (retains your kite
            after it's been released). Wrist-activated release is an attachment between
            your wrist & a snap shackle release mechanism (in order to activate the
            release of the kite).

            >. two wrist leashes is too much!

            There's really never any reason to attach the kite leash to your wrist (just
            attach it to your harness or spreader). Attaching the RELEASE to your wrist
            makes for some of the safest systems, since you never have to fumble around
            for a release ball. Next safest I can think of would be having the release
            line attached to the end of your spreader, so when you're fumbling, it's
            always in exactly the same place. A problem with those two systems is that
            they prevent the snap shackle from swiveling, AND they prevent "reversing"
            the shackle (so it can "snap" directly onto the spreader hook).

            > I tested the
            > release and it works...

            That's still not enough. You need to actively attempt to MAKE it stick &
            hold with constant tension. Believe me, if it's at all possible to make it
            catch it will happen when you least want it to. Maybe wet or sandy line
            could stick, even if clean dry line doesn't. I don't think it's worth
            rising life & limb.

            > Another option I was considering was putting the trim loop & the
            > spreader bar in the snap portion of the shackle.

            That sounds even less safe to me. I think it would take both hands to
            release, one to pull the line/ring & the other to keep the shackle from just
            rotating when that line is pulled.

            > BTW, the reason I don't lark's head the trim loop through the swivel
            > part of the shackle is that the shackle is too small to fit the loop
            > through.

            That seems unusual (I'll try to remember to check your photos again) but you
            could always just replace that part of the trim line with something slightly
            thinner (it doesn't need to be special line to run through the bar), or make
            a small loop to lark's head the closed end of the shackle onto the existing
            loop. Sure you'd be adding a small piece of line, but you'd be eliminating
            the bigger, heavier, more costly chain connector.

            Mel
          • surfsup@ragingbull.com
            Okay, I had the day off for court (which I lost to the tune of $980.00 arrrgggghhhh...) and got the photos after flying the kite for an hour, or so this
            Message 5 of 13 , Nov 2, 2001
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              Okay, I had the day off for court (which I lost to the tune of $980.00
              arrrgggghhhh...) and got the photos after flying the kite for an hour,
              or so this afternoon. Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. Changing
              directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes. A pain in the butt trying to
              work the edges of the window. I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot air
              at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.

              Four new photos and I got rid of a couple old ones (the four new ones
              start with an "X"):

              http://groups.yahoo.com/group/kitesurf/files/surfsup/

              1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line to
              attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
              LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).

              2) xpulley - shows the modification to "diagram.jpg" which eliminates
              the extra O-ring at the pulley and feeds one of the lines through the
              top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely
              through. The wrist-leash (which as you said can be attached to the
              harness) would be attached to the Oring so that if I let go of the bar
              and pull the stopper ball on the snapshackle (next photo), it will
              completely depower the kite and leave me free.

              3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar and
              the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
              the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
              get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
              time.

              4) xscrew_gate2 is just the same but a different angle.

              My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do a
              wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
              line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
              does not flop around as much. One thing I didn't mention about the
              wrist activated release (or maybe I did and forgot) was my rotator
              cuff injury. With that, I feel much better with the grab ball
              approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
              amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
              was aggravating my shoulder.

              I'm also going to draw up with the computer CAD software a better
              diagram that is not a photo so its more easily read, with better
              comments to help others. I'll put in the options we talked about. Let
              me know what you think so far. I think its pretty good (always room
              for improvement but SOOOOOO much better than what I started with,
              which was NOTHING). I feel much safer, but realize there are still
              many uncertainties and will continue to test/modify as you suggested.

              V
            • Mel
              ... Sounds even worse than Cabrillo. ... Yeah, in those conditions you get enough accidental air that it s tough to avoid injury, without intentionally
              Message 6 of 13 , Nov 2, 2001
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                <surfsup@...> wrote:

                > Gusty winds today. 20 mph, then 3 mph. Changing
                > directions 90 degrees every 5-10 minutes.

                Sounds even worse than Cabrillo.

                > I did get lifted quite a bit (4 foot air
                > at the most once) but it was not due to my wanting to.

                Yeah, in those conditions you get enough "accidental air" that it's tough to
                avoid injury, without intentionally getting lofted.

                > 1) xstopperball - depicts the lark's head I made with the LE line to
                > attach the little knotted line through the stopperball approximately a
                > LE length from the O-ring (in next picture).

                That should be okay with Q-Power line, but may weaken unsleeved plain line
                (even if that's really a "captured" clove hitch - as pictured in my "Mel's
                Stuff" group folder).

                Here's another idea for a stopper in the middle of a length of Q-Line: get a
                CHEAP plastic ring (69 cents at www.westmarine.com # 283848, Ronstan #
                PNP52C), hold the line at the point where the stopper needs to be (to stop
                the bar from sliding too far up towards the kite), fold it AS IF you were
                going to tie a loop at that point (but don't actually tie it), & just feed
                that loop through the ring, over the end & back, just like you would if
                there was a knotted loop in the end of a line to lark's head around a ring.
                Cheap, light, clean & easy. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

                > 2) xpulley - ...feeds one of the lines through the
                > top loop with the O-ring preventing it from feeding completely

                Slick. Even with plain line you can eliminate the front leaders completely
                if you want, just lark's head the end loops over the appropriate rings. If
                the sewn loops are too small to go over the ring, make your own larger loop
                by just doubling it back into a lark's head. In other words, take your tiny
                sewn loop & form a big lark's head out of it. Now feed THAT loop through
                the o-ring & over the end. That likely didn't make sense either!

                By the way, once you stop adjusting it a lot, you can replace the pulley
                itself with an o-ring.

                > 3) xscrew_gate - Shows the screwgate on the harness spreader bar and
                > the snapshackle between it, and the large O-ring lark's headed over
                > the trim loop. This way, with metal on metal, the snapshackle cannot
                > get caught on the O-ring at all. Should be a smooth release every
                > time.

                Looks good. I thought that's how you had it before! If you aren't using
                the safer wrist release, it will also be "metal-on-metal" with the trim loop
                lark's headed through the fixed end of the shackle (looks to me like your
                line will fit), & the open end "snapped" directly onto the spreader hook.
                Keep in mind you still need to test the release (try to MAKE it stick),
                because just "metal-to-metal" isn't enough, if the metal's bend radius is
                too small.

                > My comments: Works really well. One thing is that I plan to do a
                > wrist-activated release as you mentioned, or thicken the grab-ball
                > line with either the PVC covering or thicker rope so that the rope
                > does not flop around as much.

                Try just shortening it. It only needs to be long enough to grab. Another
                idea is fastening it out to one end of the spreader (next best thing to a
                wrist-activated release).

                > I feel much better with the grab ball
                > approach, since when I first had it set up on my wrist, with the
                > amount of line I had to leave my arms free, to relase the snapshackle
                > was aggravating my shoulder.

                You can put it on the other hand. With a tiny bit of practice it's pretty
                easy to fly one-handed with EITHER hand (& use the other to grab the board).
                Of course with an ARC in steady wind it takes NO practice at all to fly NO
                handed...

                Mel
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