4861Re: Kite Safety Leash Attachment Point
- Jun 2, 2004--- In email@example.com, "David Alger" <DAlger@P...> wrote:
> I had the unfortunate experience of being dragged for half a mile byI am sorry to hear about your experience, it is great that you didn't
> my kiteleash at 20 knots when it failed to deploy. I did get a sore
> shoulder, but I hate to think what it would have been like if I were
> dragged by my spreader bar. Very likely I would have drowned or
> perhaps broken my back. I'll stick to the wrist, where at least I
> can see the quick release, which I had to pull.
encounter something hard along the way. Do you have ideas as to why
your kite didn't depower properly? Did the lines twist or tangle
around your stopper ball or ring? What is the kite/bar model and year
you were using?
Many or perhaps most of the kite leash attachments that I have
encountered will pull free if depowered if moderate to strong
conditions. In effect, these leashes will pull away with too low a
tension but that is another problem. That is why I always advise
grabbing your kite leash just above the attachment point, if you have
time, to backup the attachment with gloves on ideally.
I haven't used wrist cuffs by choice for years for a variety of
reasons. Having both hands free is an important one. Also, it is
much harder to do the "Corkscrew Of Death" (COD), with a spreader bar
attachment. The COD can easily happen in moderate to strong winds
when the leash coming off the wrist cuff wraps over the opposite end
of the bar making your lines uneven. In winds in the 20 mph range
this will result in your getting pulled across the water at high
speed in cycles as the kite corkscrews across the powezone, slams into
the water, auto-relaunches and repeats the whole process over again.
Eventually, you should be able to get the line unwrapped and hopefully
before you are pulled into a hard object. Having done a few COD's I
was happy to leave the wrist cuffs behind.
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