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RES: [ksurf] Re: Kitesurfing maturing?durable board

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  • hungvuatnetcomdotca
    ... Same here. Basically it is a snowboard shape without the side cut (amphibious board shape) ... A small amount of flip tips (10 mm is OK) helps if your
    Message 1 of 15 , Aug 4, 2003
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      > Slight curve in the edges but not much. Rounded corners and straight
      > ends.
      >
      > == I have basically a rectangle shape. Round the ends for safety !

      Same here. Basically it is a snowboard shape without the side cut
      (amphibious board shape)

      > No rocker, but I steamed 'flip-tips' of about 1.25" onto each end. ( I
      > may need a new steam iron if I ever want to iron clothes again :-/ )
      >
      > === no rocker in mine.. No flip tips... Rarely does it cause a problem
      > (but you need more weight on the back leg.

      A small amount of flip tips (10 mm is OK) helps if your board
      sunmarine a lot (due to the small size and unconstant wind).

      > Now I have to decide whether or not to bother with fins - any advice?
      > And what about sealing? - a coat of varnish?
      >
      > == I don't seal nothing, and I don't use fins... And I just used some
      > wood screws straight into the wood. Anything else is too much work !
      >
      > No fins are good for riding in 2-5 cm of water !

      No fin of course. Fins are too much work for so little impact
      (negative sometimes). Varnish would work fine. Wood screw would work
      fine but not as strong as some bolt system similar to a wakeboard
      (useful when you want to experiment with different straps).

      Hung.
    • theflyingtinman
      ... Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers online from
      Message 2 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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        --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, "hungvuatnetcomdotca" <hungvu@n...> wrote:

        > ....No fin of course. Fins are too much work for so little impact
        > (negative sometimes). Varnish would work fine. Wood screw would work
        > fine but not as strong as some bolt system similar to a wakeboard
        > (useful when you want to experiment with different straps).

        Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I
        already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers
        online from McFeely's ( www.mcfeelys.com ) Good, quick service.
        Stainless T-nuts are hard to find locally - none of the hardware stores
        around here carry them.
        What do the DIY-ers use for good, low-cost pads and straps? I could
        put my spare sandal bindings on it but one of my motivations for making
        these ply boards is so I don't need to worry too much about loosing
        them when I start to ride leashless, so I'm trying to make them cheap
        and 'disposable'.

        Steve T.
      • georgeiw@aol.com
        for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring from Home Depot. it is in the carpet section and it comes in a pack of 4 interlocking pieces.
        Message 3 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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          for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring from Home
          Depot. it is in the carpet section and it comes in a pack of 4 interlocking
          pieces. They are either grey or in a color pack of yellow, green, red and blue.
          Each piece can make about 4 pads and they can be sanded to a shape as well. I
          use a long box cutter blade 3/8" x 3" and you can cut through easily in 2
          passes. You can cut straight up and down or on a bevel.

          Around here we have used tow straps and seat buckle straps for the strap. I
          also buy the dakine, nsi and epic gear stuff. The wind surfer ones cost about
          16 bucks each which is not too bad.

          For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west marine. The barrel
          bolt is the nut but it had a screw head on the end and an internal threaded
          tube about 1/2 long. I use the 1/4 20s. You can simply drill a hole in the
          plywood and keep using them from board to board. I have also used brass threaded
          inserts from Rockler. you drill a 3/8" hole and screw in the piece which has
          a machine thread on the inside.

          The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive. about $5.00 each.
          Good luck
          George


          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        • hungvuatnetcomdotca
          ... Steve, There are some types of bolt system that does not go through the bottom so that the bottom is completely flat (and look very nice too) with no holes
          Message 4 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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            --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, "theflyingtinman"
            <theflyingtinman@y...> wrote:
            > Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I
            > already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers
            > online from McFeely's ( www.mcfeelys.com ) Good, quick service.
            > Stainless T-nuts are hard to find locally - none of the hardware stores
            > around here carry them.
            > What do the DIY-ers use for good, low-cost pads and straps? I could
            > put my spare sandal bindings on it but one of my motivations for making
            > these ply boards is so I don't need to worry too much about loosing
            > them when I start to ride leashless, so I'm trying to make them cheap
            > and 'disposable'.

            Steve,

            There are some types of bolt system that does not go through the
            bottom so that the bottom is completely flat (and look very nice too)
            with no holes in it. If you use the system that create holes on the
            bottom of the board, make sure you plug it with some epoxy. You can
            ask the guys at your local "Home Depot" store for all these various
            options.

            If you use water shoe (like I do as it could be very cold around here)
            then you just need to bolt some straps (a pair of windsurfing straps
            work just fine and cost around $15 US - A more kite specific pair of
            Dakine strap is more expensive around $30 to $40 US is better for more
            support). Don't use wakeboard binding system (even just sandal
            binding) as they are both expensive and add tons of weight to the board.

            Hung.
          • hungvuatnetcomdotca
            ... The barrel ... threaded ... hole in the ... brass threaded ... which has ... Sounds like the same bolt system I used; however my cost around $.50 each from
            Message 5 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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              --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, georgeiw@a... wrote:
              > For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west marine.
              The barrel
              > bolt is the nut but it had a screw head on the end and an internal
              threaded
              > tube about 1/2 long. I use the 1/4 20s. You can simply drill a
              hole in the
              > plywood and keep using them from board to board. I have also used
              brass threaded
              > inserts from Rockler. you drill a 3/8" hole and screw in the piece
              which has
              > a machine thread on the inside.
              >
              > The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive. about $5.00 each.

              Sounds like the same bolt system I used; however my cost around $.50
              each from Home Depot ;-)

              Hung.
            • Greg Walsh
              I used Cabrinha binding plates with adjustable straps. They were only slightly more expensive than buying separate wide-style straps and stick-on pads. The
              Message 6 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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                I used Cabrinha binding plates with adjustable straps. They were only
                slightly more expensive than buying separate wide-style straps and
                stick-on pads. The aluminium plates make the board a bit stiffer
                under your feet and you can easily swap them between boards.

                I drilled holes straight through the board and put 1/4" stainless
                bolts up through the bottom. I used cup-washers to remove any chance
                of the bolts pulling through. If you put the washers on then tighten
                them super tight it flattens the washers a bit and cuts out the
                bottom layer of veneer. When you varnish the board it pools around
                the edge of the washers and you get a nice neat end.

                I didn't bother with fins because even cheap ones were really
                expensive. It works great without fins. I had one of my best ever
                sessions last weekend. I enjoyed the ply board so much I am selling
                my epoxy-carbon production TT. The ply is the funnest board I have
                used. :o)))

                Regards

                Greg
              • theflyingtinman
                ... Sound good, I ll look in at Home Depot on my way home tonight :-) ... I have lots of very wide webbing for straps. ... I bought these stainless steel
                Message 7 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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                  --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, georgeiw@a... wrote:
                  > for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring
                  > from Home Depot.

                  Sound good, I'll look in at Home Depot on my way home tonight :-)

                  > Around here we have used tow straps and seat buckle
                  > straps for the strap.

                  I have lots of very wide webbing for straps.

                  > For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west
                  > marine. The barrel bolt is the nut but it had a screw
                  > head on the end and an internal threaded tube about 1/2
                  > long. I use the 1/4 20s...
                  > ...The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive.
                  > about $5.00

                  I bought these stainless steel T-nuts (also 1/4 x 20)...

                  http://tinyurl.com/j4ma

                  $15.50 for 4 boxes of ten.
                  Sounds similar to your barrel-bolts but a lot cheaper
                  and specifically designed for mounting to plywood. If you
                  slightly contersink with a 3/4 flat wood-bit you get a
                  comletely flush mounting.

                  Steve T.
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