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RES: [ksurf] Re: Kitesurfing maturing?durable board

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  • Stefano Rosso
    Length: 147cm. Width 41cm; I decided to start very wide (I m about 210 lb) and trim down as necessary after riding it. == my favorite size for a plyboard is
    Message 1 of 15 , Aug 4, 2003
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      Length: 147cm. Width 41cm; I decided to start very wide (I'm about 210
      lb)
      and trim down as necessary after riding it.

      == my favorite size for a plyboard is 140 by 45 so that's not wide ! (I
      weight 155lbs)

      Slight curve in the edges but not much. Rounded corners and straight
      ends.

      == I have basically a rectangle shape. Round the ends for safety !

      No rocker, but I steamed 'flip-tips' of about 1.25" onto each end. ( I
      may need a new steam iron if I ever want to iron clothes again :-/ )

      === no rocker in mine.. No flip tips... Rarely does it cause a problem
      (but you need more weight on the back leg.

      The hardware I ordered (stainlass steel T nuts, for the straps, etc)
      arrived
      this weekend while I was away, so I'll be finishing it off this week.
      Now I have to decide whether or not to bother with fins - any advice?
      And what about sealing? - a coat of varnish?

      == I don't seal nothing, and I don't use fins... And I just used some
      wood screws straight into the wood. Anything else is too much work !

      No fins are good for riding in 2-5 cm of water !
    • hungvuatnetcomdotca
      ... Same here. Basically it is a snowboard shape without the side cut (amphibious board shape) ... A small amount of flip tips (10 mm is OK) helps if your
      Message 2 of 15 , Aug 4, 2003
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        > Slight curve in the edges but not much. Rounded corners and straight
        > ends.
        >
        > == I have basically a rectangle shape. Round the ends for safety !

        Same here. Basically it is a snowboard shape without the side cut
        (amphibious board shape)

        > No rocker, but I steamed 'flip-tips' of about 1.25" onto each end. ( I
        > may need a new steam iron if I ever want to iron clothes again :-/ )
        >
        > === no rocker in mine.. No flip tips... Rarely does it cause a problem
        > (but you need more weight on the back leg.

        A small amount of flip tips (10 mm is OK) helps if your board
        sunmarine a lot (due to the small size and unconstant wind).

        > Now I have to decide whether or not to bother with fins - any advice?
        > And what about sealing? - a coat of varnish?
        >
        > == I don't seal nothing, and I don't use fins... And I just used some
        > wood screws straight into the wood. Anything else is too much work !
        >
        > No fins are good for riding in 2-5 cm of water !

        No fin of course. Fins are too much work for so little impact
        (negative sometimes). Varnish would work fine. Wood screw would work
        fine but not as strong as some bolt system similar to a wakeboard
        (useful when you want to experiment with different straps).

        Hung.
      • theflyingtinman
        ... Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers online from
        Message 3 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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          --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, "hungvuatnetcomdotca" <hungvu@n...> wrote:

          > ....No fin of course. Fins are too much work for so little impact
          > (negative sometimes). Varnish would work fine. Wood screw would work
          > fine but not as strong as some bolt system similar to a wakeboard
          > (useful when you want to experiment with different straps).

          Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I
          already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers
          online from McFeely's ( www.mcfeelys.com ) Good, quick service.
          Stainless T-nuts are hard to find locally - none of the hardware stores
          around here carry them.
          What do the DIY-ers use for good, low-cost pads and straps? I could
          put my spare sandal bindings on it but one of my motivations for making
          these ply boards is so I don't need to worry too much about loosing
          them when I start to ride leashless, so I'm trying to make them cheap
          and 'disposable'.

          Steve T.
        • georgeiw@aol.com
          for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring from Home Depot. it is in the carpet section and it comes in a pack of 4 interlocking pieces.
          Message 4 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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            for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring from Home
            Depot. it is in the carpet section and it comes in a pack of 4 interlocking
            pieces. They are either grey or in a color pack of yellow, green, red and blue.
            Each piece can make about 4 pads and they can be sanded to a shape as well. I
            use a long box cutter blade 3/8" x 3" and you can cut through easily in 2
            passes. You can cut straight up and down or on a bevel.

            Around here we have used tow straps and seat buckle straps for the strap. I
            also buy the dakine, nsi and epic gear stuff. The wind surfer ones cost about
            16 bucks each which is not too bad.

            For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west marine. The barrel
            bolt is the nut but it had a screw head on the end and an internal threaded
            tube about 1/2 long. I use the 1/4 20s. You can simply drill a hole in the
            plywood and keep using them from board to board. I have also used brass threaded
            inserts from Rockler. you drill a 3/8" hole and screw in the piece which has
            a machine thread on the inside.

            The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive. about $5.00 each.
            Good luck
            George


            [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          • hungvuatnetcomdotca
            ... Steve, There are some types of bolt system that does not go through the bottom so that the bottom is completely flat (and look very nice too) with no holes
            Message 5 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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              --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, "theflyingtinman"
              <theflyingtinman@y...> wrote:
              > Thanks - so, no fins and a coat of varnish it is. To mount the straps I
              > already bought a bunch of stainless steel T-nuts, screws and washers
              > online from McFeely's ( www.mcfeelys.com ) Good, quick service.
              > Stainless T-nuts are hard to find locally - none of the hardware stores
              > around here carry them.
              > What do the DIY-ers use for good, low-cost pads and straps? I could
              > put my spare sandal bindings on it but one of my motivations for making
              > these ply boards is so I don't need to worry too much about loosing
              > them when I start to ride leashless, so I'm trying to make them cheap
              > and 'disposable'.

              Steve,

              There are some types of bolt system that does not go through the
              bottom so that the bottom is completely flat (and look very nice too)
              with no holes in it. If you use the system that create holes on the
              bottom of the board, make sure you plug it with some epoxy. You can
              ask the guys at your local "Home Depot" store for all these various
              options.

              If you use water shoe (like I do as it could be very cold around here)
              then you just need to bolt some straps (a pair of windsurfing straps
              work just fine and cost around $15 US - A more kite specific pair of
              Dakine strap is more expensive around $30 to $40 US is better for more
              support). Don't use wakeboard binding system (even just sandal
              binding) as they are both expensive and add tons of weight to the board.

              Hung.
            • hungvuatnetcomdotca
              ... The barrel ... threaded ... hole in the ... brass threaded ... which has ... Sounds like the same bolt system I used; however my cost around $.50 each from
              Message 6 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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                --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, georgeiw@a... wrote:
                > For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west marine.
                The barrel
                > bolt is the nut but it had a screw head on the end and an internal
                threaded
                > tube about 1/2 long. I use the 1/4 20s. You can simply drill a
                hole in the
                > plywood and keep using them from board to board. I have also used
                brass threaded
                > inserts from Rockler. you drill a 3/8" hole and screw in the piece
                which has
                > a machine thread on the inside.
                >
                > The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive. about $5.00 each.

                Sounds like the same bolt system I used; however my cost around $.50
                each from Home Depot ;-)

                Hung.
              • Greg Walsh
                I used Cabrinha binding plates with adjustable straps. They were only slightly more expensive than buying separate wide-style straps and stick-on pads. The
                Message 7 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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                  I used Cabrinha binding plates with adjustable straps. They were only
                  slightly more expensive than buying separate wide-style straps and
                  stick-on pads. The aluminium plates make the board a bit stiffer
                  under your feet and you can easily swap them between boards.

                  I drilled holes straight through the board and put 1/4" stainless
                  bolts up through the bottom. I used cup-washers to remove any chance
                  of the bolts pulling through. If you put the washers on then tighten
                  them super tight it flattens the washers a bit and cuts out the
                  bottom layer of veneer. When you varnish the board it pools around
                  the edge of the washers and you get a nice neat end.

                  I didn't bother with fins because even cheap ones were really
                  expensive. It works great without fins. I had one of my best ever
                  sessions last weekend. I enjoyed the ply board so much I am selling
                  my epoxy-carbon production TT. The ply is the funnest board I have
                  used. :o)))

                  Regards

                  Greg
                • theflyingtinman
                  ... Sound good, I ll look in at Home Depot on my way home tonight :-) ... I have lots of very wide webbing for straps. ... I bought these stainless steel
                  Message 8 of 15 , Aug 5, 2003
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                    --- In kitesurf@yahoogroups.com, georgeiw@a... wrote:
                    > for pads i cut them out of this foam rubber play room flooring
                    > from Home Depot.

                    Sound good, I'll look in at Home Depot on my way home tonight :-)

                    > Around here we have used tow straps and seat buckle
                    > straps for the strap.

                    I have lots of very wide webbing for straps.

                    > For the bolts my favorite are the barrel bolts from west
                    > marine. The barrel bolt is the nut but it had a screw
                    > head on the end and an internal threaded tube about 1/2
                    > long. I use the 1/4 20s...
                    > ...The barrel bolts are very easy to use but expensive.
                    > about $5.00

                    I bought these stainless steel T-nuts (also 1/4 x 20)...

                    http://tinyurl.com/j4ma

                    $15.50 for 4 boxes of ten.
                    Sounds similar to your barrel-bolts but a lot cheaper
                    and specifically designed for mounting to plywood. If you
                    slightly contersink with a 3/4 flat wood-bit you get a
                    comletely flush mounting.

                    Steve T.
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