North Scepter Bar
- Have been using the Scepter bar now for about two months, on 30 or more
outings, so, in reply to previous post, it has survived the weekend without
falling apart for me and the other riders here who use it regularly.
Agree it has some pluses and minuses.
The bar itself works well, and one can tailor it to your liking with some
tinkering. It's a definite step up for me in how it performs over the old
Rodeo Bar. The center hole instead of a bolted on fairlead gives a different
feel when sheeting in and out that gives a little more stability and makes
controlling the bar with one hand much easier for me.
The bar itself is slightly smaller in diameter and padded slightly and
comfortable in the hands.
The adjustment from inner to outer attachment points for the back lines is
simple and allows changing from 50 to 58 cm. with the same bar. It works
well on 8 to 16 meter Rhino II. I haven't tried it yet on the 18 and 20m
Rhino II, on these I have been using the longer 62 and 78 cm rodeo bar. The
20 meter Rhino turns surprisingly fast with the 78 cm bar. North claims it
works fine with the scepter bar. I will have to try it sometime to find out.
I ride shackled in to the chicken loop all the time with a Wichard QR, and
so I take off the fixed harness line. This helps clean up the complexity
some. The chicken loop itself has a built in QR on it, and I have had this
release unintentionally a few times. Duct tape on the stainless steel
rectangular loop that goes up inside the rubber bumper slider thing can help
prevent this. Like wise on the leash QR, a little duct tape over the
stainless steel pin has solved all my unintentional release problems. I
attach the female end of the plastic buckle of the leash to my Wichard QR
with a short segment of line tied in just above the release bar on the
shackle, so it spins together with the shackle.
I haven't had a problem yet with the back line adjustment straps, but will
simply replace them with spectra line if I do.
I agree that the depower strap is not ideal. It is difficult to release the
trim strap after it has been pulled down, mostly because it is hard to
reach, too far away. I shorten the main blue spectra line a little by
untying the knot where it attaches to the adjustment strap and retying in
shorter. This puts the sweet spot a little closer to me so my arms don't
feel stretched out to far, and brings the release for the trim strap a
little closer also.
I have had problems one time with the knot on the leashed line not sliding
through the neoprene guides at the end of the depower strap when I release
the bar, and hence the kite did not depower properly. The leashed line got
hung up on the knot where the leader line attaches to the kite line. Upon
inspection I relized that the knot was a quite big because to the way I
attached the lines together... I attached them properly now the knot is
smaller and slides through more easily.
IF one pays attention to these details, I think the bar is basically good.
North has gotten some things right, and fallen short in some critical areas
that can be remedied, but it sure would be nice it they had remedied these
things themselves. Hopefully they will pay attention to these criticisms
and remedy the problem areas in the near future.
Contact me if you are looking for very good prices on North Kites.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:02 PM
Subject: [ksurf] Re: Rhino2 bar, will it survive a weekend?
> The bar is a little more complex than necessary in my opinion.
> Remove the backline adjusters, replace the trim loop and strap.
> It is true, just above the release mechanism of the loop there is
> only one layer of webbing, sooner or later it will fail. Other posible
> weak point are the small webbings that holds the metal rings at
> the top of the trim strap (where the little plastic balls rest).
> The bar itself is very confortable and the lengh adjustment is a
> very clever idea.
> --- In email@example.com, "brianches2
> <brianches2@y...>" <brianches2@y...> wrote:
> > I have read some posts telling of the problems of the new
> > bar. Steve wrote,
> > > We have a had a number of near disasters with the North
> Rhino 2
> > bar,
> > firstly
> > > piss off the side line adjusters, they are a very dumb design,
> > and are
> > > pretty useless anyway. Why, they break the webbing and
> then you
> > have a
> > > wildly out of control kite!
> > >
> > > Second problem is the trim loop design, it pre-releases, and
> > you look
> > > closely at the area where the blue rope is sewn to the
> > there is
> > only
> > > one layer of webbing that has a breaking strain of approx
> > or so.
> > > Customers have broken the loop right off the blue line, so
> > that
> > piece
> > > of untested crap too.
> > As I have yet to see this bar in person, all I can go by are
> > pictures, I am not sure what blue line you are talking about
> > The trim rope that runs through the bar? Where it attaches to
> > trim loop? I am a snap shackle rider, so shoud I just replace
> > rope and loop to a rope and ring and be done with it? I am
> also not
> > sure what the side line adjusters are all about, or how they are
> > made. My biggest question is will it survive a weekend of
> > I am planning on buying a Rhino2 package when I am on
> vacation and
> > would just like to go out riding without having to fix all this crap
> > until I get home. I am a big guy 220-230 lbs. so I always make
> > my equipment is safe and can handle my weight. I am very
> > about the 300lb webbing! Also, going by pictures only, the
> > instantaneous trim range looks very short, is it enough or am I
> > going to have to increase it when I switch things over to a rope
> > with a ring? Any advise is well appreciated,
> > Brian
> to unsubscribe send a message to firstname.lastname@example.org
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- A friend of mine has the new Rhino but cant find anything anywhere regarding
tuning the kite.
I was advising him to tune it in the same way as a Mach 1. Put it in the air
and when in the fixed harness loop adjust the trim strap so that the spars
are parallel. Does anyone know is this the same for all LEI`s and in
particular the Rhino`s.
Could you please explain how you attach your leash to the spinning
part of your Wichard QR ?
Are you using the Wichard 2673 ?
--- In email@example.com, "Daniel Lamar" <rflamar@v...> wrote:
> I ride shackled in to the chicken loop all the time with a Wichard
> I attach the female end of the plastic buckle of the leash to my
> with a short segment of line tied in just above the release bar on
> shackle, so it spins together with the shackle.
- And why don't you flame North for a dangerous instruction manual and you flamed PL for the lack of a decent manual for his kites? Why don't you stop selling their kites? They've proven they can put you in serious peril because of gear failure...
Of course it's not the same. ARCs are shit and Norths are great, whatever they perform or they endanger your lifes ;-)
Just joking, but think about it.
Safe must be the most important I+D issue on KiteBoarding Companies. It's good that the present year kites fly better, have greater range and last for more than past year's ones. I think that every firm must sell ONLY well-proved, boom-proof, fail-safe gear.
Sorry for my awful English.
Pedro desde Cartagena.
Procesado desde Palm Tungsten T.
- Safety sHIT iD bE WORRIED THE Norh KITE WOULD FALL APART IN THE skY
WhILe fLyinG. i THouGHt NOrtH waS knOWn FOR ThEIR CONSTRuction. The
NeW rINho tWO's Look LIKe THeY WerE MadE LikE thE firsT wIpKIs. looK
at THe PISS poor stITchINg. AnD THe giAnt HOLes THe nEEDLE lEFT on
THe lEADiNg EDge i CoulD See THe bLADDer ON thREE kiTES i LookED aT
wHeN iNflATed............ HeY but VerY Fun KITes To flY . kINda
RmINDed mE of thE OLd Ar5 NaIsH kItes. bUT youR Gonna hAVE TO buy
TWicE As mANY wOULD Be My GUess AftER LookinG aT thE
coNSTRuctIon......... gOod MaRKETing plOY
--- In firstname.lastname@example.org, periku@h... wrote:
> Safe must be the most important I+D issue on KiteBoarding
Companies. It's good that the present year kites fly better, have
greater range and last for more than past year's ones. I think that
every firm must sell ONLY well-proved, boom-proof, fail-safe gear.
> Sorry for my awful English.
> Pedro desde Cartagena.
> Procesado desde Palm Tungsten T.
> Buenos Vientos.
- I THINK ALL KITES SHUD BE SOLD KITE ONLY.
THEN U PAY LESS FOR A KITE AND ONCE U PUT TOGETHER THE BAR, SAFETY &
LINE LENGTH U LIKE U JUST KEEP IT TILL IT WEARS OUT.
--- In email@example.com, "Todd" <bitme1234@y...> wrote:
> Safety sHIT iD bE WORRIED THE Norh KITE WOULD FALL APART IN THE skY
> WhILe fLyinG. i THouGHt NOrtH waS knOWn FOR ThEIR CONSTRuction. The
> NeW rINho tWO's Look LIKe THeY WerE MadE LikE thE firsT wIpKIs. looK
> at THe PISS poor stITchINg. AnD THe giAnt HOLes THe nEEDLE lEFT on
> THe lEADiNg EDge i CoulD See THe bLADDer ON thREE kiTES i LookED aT
> wHeN iNflATed............ HeY but VerY Fun KITes To flY . kINda
> RmINDed mE of thE OLd Ar5 NaIsH kItes. bUT youR Gonna hAVE TO buy
> TWicE As mANY wOULD Be My GUess AftER LookinG aT thE
> coNSTRuctIon......... gOod MaRKETing plOY
> --- In firstname.lastname@example.org, periku@h... wrote:
> > Safe must be the most important I+D issue on KiteBoarding
> Companies. It's good that the present year kites fly better, have
> greater range and last for more than past year's ones. I think that
> every firm must sell ONLY well-proved, boom-proof, fail-safe gear.
> > Sorry for my awful English.
> > -------------------------------------
> > Pedro desde Cartagena.
> > Procesado desde Palm Tungsten T.
> > Buenos Vientos.