This looks real interesting but am having a bit of trouble following. Feel
like posting a picture? I'm getting ready to convert my Wipi to 4 line so
this is quite relevant for me right now.
Carson City, Nevada USA
Date: Monday, April 10, 2000 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: [ksurf] No Drilling 4-Line Mod.
>In a message dated 00-04-08 20:18:14 EDT, colin-gowland@... writes:
><< I tried running mine through an eyebolt in the middle but there was too
> friction and the angle wasn't right at all. I decided to simply tie a
> block in the middle of the bar. This works perfectly. >>
>With an adjustable main leader*, there's no need to ever unhook from the
>"trim" harness loop (if you want to lock in a preset sheeting angle, just
>hook to the standard harness line on the bar & adjust the leader), except
>when you need to disconnect from the kite completely (emergencies &
>I connected the "trim" line directly to my Reactor (eye strap bolted on
>with 800 pound $12 Ronstan RF6000 snap shackle). Now that I've tried both
>ways, I actually prefer to have the trim line run below the bar (but above
>the harness line), instead of through the bar, so that when unhooked I can
>sheet in & out with the bar closer to shoulder height.
>I added a "minimum sheeting" line between the RF6000 & the bar, so when I'm
>unharnessed & let go to steer with one hand, it stays within reach. I also
>added a snap hook where that line attaches to the bar, so I can clip to the
>cleat loop to lock in a low sheeting angle when I release the RF6000 to
>*Tie the bottom of a ClamCleat CL 211 to the RF6000 on the Reactor (or to
>top of the "trim" line, using the stock system). Run a second line from
>top of the CL 211 through a pulley block (I use a 660 pound Ronstan RF280)
>the bottom of the main leader, & back through the cleat's teeth.
>Now that I think of it, since I only need to adjust the cleat about once
>hour, a plain thimble or stainless "O" ring should work instead of the
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