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RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

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  • gmail account
    I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides. It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places. No crazing on the hull though. I looked
    Message 1 of 23 , Jul 8, 2013

      I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 

       

      Conrad

      Another J

      # 46

      From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

       

       

      I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

      Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

      I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

      Thanks,

      Barry
      J/42 wannabe owner

    • Ed Cale
      Barry, I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I ve now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn t.  Unfortunately, the only one that
      Message 2 of 23 , Sep 13, 2013
        Barry,

        I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

        FWIW,
        Ed



        From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
        Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

         
        I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
         
        Conrad
        Another J
        # 46
        From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
         
         
        I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

        Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

        I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

        Thanks,

        Barry
        J/42 wannabe owner


      • tributesails
        Thanks, Ed. We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1. The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long
        Message 3 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013

          Thanks, Ed.


          We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


          I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


          Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


          Barry

          Currently boatless.





          --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

          Barry,

          I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

          FWIW,
          Ed



          From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
          Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

           
          I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
           
          Conrad
          Another J
          # 46
          From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
           
           
          I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

          Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

          I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

          Thanks,

          Barry
          J/42 wannabe owner


        • William Stellin
          My preventer is very simple. One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet. Each end of the line has a shackle. On a
          Message 4 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
            My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
            Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

            When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

             One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
            The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

             The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

               In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

            Bill  Jaywalker  #6

            Sent from my iPad

            On Sep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

             

            Thanks, Ed.


            We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


            I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


            Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


            Barry

            Currently boatless.





            --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

            Barry,

            I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

            FWIW,
            Ed



            From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
            Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

             
            I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
             
            Conrad
            Another J
            # 46
            From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
             
             
            I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

            Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

            I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

            Thanks,

            Barry
            J/42 wannabe owner


          • Thomas Keffer
            I like your strategy for freeing up the winch. What kind of turning block are you using? I prefer using a strop because it allows the preventer to be attached
            Message 5 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
              I like your strategy for freeing up the winch. What kind of turning block are you using?

              I prefer using a strop because it allows the preventer to be attached when the mainsheet is eased. It's a loooong way out there otherwise! 

              -tk


              On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 11:25 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
               

              My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
              Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

              When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

               One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
              The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

               The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                 In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

              Bill  Jaywalker  #6

              Sent from my iPad

              On Sep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

               

              Thanks, Ed.


              We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


              I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


              Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


              Barry

              Currently boatless.





              --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

              Barry,

              I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

              FWIW,
              Ed



              From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
              To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
              Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

               
              I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
               
              Conrad
              Another J
              # 46
              From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
              Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
              To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
               
               
              I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

              Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

              I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

              Thanks,

              Barry
              J/42 wannabe owner





              --
              Tom Keffer
              keffer@...
              +1 541-386-8891 (h)
              +1 541-490-9507 (c)
              Skype: tkeffer
            • William Stellin
              If you attach the preventer while the boom is centered, you can do what I do with no problem. You never have to lean out. And you never have a strop flying
              Message 6 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
                If you attach the preventer while the boom is centered, you can do what I do with no problem.  You never have to lean out. And you never have a strop flying around when you are not using it. The secret is attach the preventer before your ease the sheet and the boom end is out of reach. The line I use is an old halyard with the snap shackle just tied on each end with a bowline.  You can then use the line for whatever else it might be needed for when it is not being used as a preventer.
                 You stay in the center of the cockpit and use one hand to unshackle one side and the other hand to attach the new side.
                The mainsheet turning blocka are Lewmar's although Harken and Schafer also carry blocks that have a break built into them.   This was one of the first things I did years ago as I didn't want to add winches but on occasion, need an extra winch.  Since the main can be controlled from either side, it is easy to free up one of them for temporary use.  It is most useful when you have the dreaded override on the primary winch and have to tension the sheet to release it from the overridden winch.  It doesn't happen very often but having an extra winch on the same side makes the job much quicker and easier. 

                Sent from my iPad

                On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:33 PM, "Thomas Keffer" <tkeffer@...> wrote:

                 

                I like your strategy for freeing up the winch. What kind of turning block are you using?

                I prefer using a strop because it allows the preventer to be attached when the mainsheet is eased. It's a loooong way out there otherwise! 

                -tk


                On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 11:25 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                 

                My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                 One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                 The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                   In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                Sent from my iPad

                On Sep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                 

                Thanks, Ed.


                We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                Barry

                Currently boatless.





                --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                Barry,

                I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                FWIW,
                Ed



                From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                 
                I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                 
                Conrad
                Another J
                # 46
                From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                 
                 
                I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                Thanks,

                Barry
                J/42 wannabe owner





                --
                Tom Keffer
                keffer@...
                +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                Skype: tkeffer

              • tony@shanomet.com
                Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line? Tony Sent from my iPhone
                Message 7 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
                  Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                  Sent from my iPhone

                  On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                   

                  My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                  Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                  When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                   One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                  The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                   The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                     In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                  Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                  Sent from my iPad

                  On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                   

                  Thanks, Ed.


                  We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                  I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                  Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                  Barry

                  Currently boatless.





                  --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                  Barry,

                  I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                  FWIW,
                  Ed



                  From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                  To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                  Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                   
                  I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                   
                  Conrad
                  Another J
                  # 46
                  From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                  Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                  To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                   
                   
                  I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                  Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                  I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                  Thanks,

                  Barry
                  J/42 wannabe owner


                • William Stellin
                  Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of
                  Message 8 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
                    Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                    This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                    Bill

                    Sent from my iPad

                    On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                     

                    Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                    Sent from my iPhone

                    On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                     

                    My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                    Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                    When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                     One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                    The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                     The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                       In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                    Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                    Sent from my iPad

                    On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                     

                    Thanks, Ed.


                    We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                    I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                    Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                    Barry

                    Currently boatless.





                    --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                    Barry,

                    I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                    FWIW,
                    Ed



                    From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                    Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                     
                    I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                     
                    Conrad
                    Another J
                    # 46
                    From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                    Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                     
                     
                    I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                    Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                    I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                    Thanks,

                    Barry
                    J/42 wannabe owner


                  • tony@shanomet.com
                    Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T Sent from my
                    Message 9 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
                      Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                      Sent from my iPhone

                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                       

                      Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                      This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                      Bill

                      Sent from my iPad

                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                       

                      Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                      Sent from my iPhone

                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                       

                      My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                      Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                      When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                       One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                      The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                       The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                         In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                      Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                      Sent from my iPad

                      On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                       

                      Thanks, Ed.


                      We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                      I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                      Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                      Barry

                      Currently boatless.





                      --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                      Barry,

                      I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                      FWIW,
                      Ed



                      From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                      Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                       
                      I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                       
                      Conrad
                      Another J
                      # 46
                      From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                       
                       
                      I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                      Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                      I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                      Thanks,

                      Barry
                      J/42 wannabe owner


                    • sailgarrett
                      Bill, I am trying to understand your preventer set up. Your preventer is a single line, with a shackle at each end. I assume you have two of these lines, one
                      Message 10 of 23 , Sep 16, 2013
                        Bill, I am trying to understand your preventer set up. Your preventer is a single line, with a shackle at each end. I assume you have two of these lines, one rigged on port and another on starboard?
                         
                        Waddy
                        Running Tide
                         
                        In a message dated 9/16/2013 3:04:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wstellin@... writes:
                         

                        Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                        This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                        Bill

                        Sent from my iPad

                        On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                         

                        Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                        Sent from my iPhone

                        On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                         

                        My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                        Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                        When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                         One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                        The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                         The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                           In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                        Bill &nb sp;Jaywalker  #6

                        Sent from my iPad

                        On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                         

                        Thanks, Ed.


                        We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                        I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one tak ing into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                        Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                        Barry

                        Currently boatless.





                        --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                        Barry,

                        I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem i s just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                        FWIW,
                        Ed



                        From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2: 44 PM
                        Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                         
                        I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                         
                        Conrad
                        Another J
                        # 46
                        From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                         
                        I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                        Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                        I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                        Tha nks,

                        Barry
                        J/42 wannabe owner


                      • William Stellin
                        The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.
                        Message 11 of 23 , Sep 17, 2013
                          The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                          Bill

                          Sent from my iPad

                          On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                           

                          Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                          Sent from my iPhone

                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                           

                          Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                          This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                          Bill

                          Sent from my iPad

                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                           

                          Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                          Sent from my iPhone

                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                           

                          My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                          Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                          When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                           One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                          The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                           The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                             In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                          Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                          Sent from my iPad

                          On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                           

                          Thanks, Ed.


                          We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                          I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                          Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                          Barry

                          Currently boatless.





                          --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                          Barry,

                          I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                          FWIW,
                          Ed



                          From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                          Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                           
                          I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                           
                          Conrad
                          Another J
                          # 46
                          From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                           
                           
                          I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                          Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                          I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                          Thanks,

                          Barry
                          J/42 wannabe owner


                        • Thomas Keffer
                          If only I wasn t so lazy! All too often I m running and the breeze picks up and I find myself thinking, If only I had set a preventer... By having the
                          Message 12 of 23 , Sep 17, 2013
                            If only I wasn't so lazy! 

                            All too often I'm running and the breeze picks up and I find myself thinking, "If only I had set a preventer..."

                            By having the strops, the preventers can easily be attached even when the boom is all the way out. 

                            Not my idea: this is from Evans Starzinger.

                            -tk


                            On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 11:54 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                             

                            If you attach the preventer while the boom is centered, you can do what I do with no problem.  You never have to lean out. And you never have a strop flying around when you are not using it. The secret is attach the preventer before your ease the sheet and the boom end is out of reach. The line I use is an old halyard with the snap shackle just tied on each end with a bowline.  You can then use the line for whatever else it might be needed for when it is not being used as a preventer.
                             You stay in the center of the cockpit and use one hand to unshackle one side and the other hand to attach the new side.
                            The mainsheet turning blocka are Lewmar's although Harken and Schafer also carry blocks that have a break built into them.   This was one of the first things I did years ago as I didn't want to add winches but on occasion, need an extra winch.  Since the main can be controlled from either side, it is easy to free up one of them for temporary use.  It is most useful when you have the dreaded override on the primary winch and have to tension the sheet to release it from the overridden winch.  It doesn't happen very often but having an extra winch on the same side makes the job much quicker and easier. 

                            Sent from my iPad

                            On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:33 PM, "Thomas Keffer" <tkeffer@...> wrote:

                             

                            I like your strategy for freeing up the winch. What kind of turning block are you using?

                            I prefer using a strop because it allows the preventer to be attached when the mainsheet is eased. It's a loooong way out there otherwise! 

                            -tk


                            On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 11:25 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                             

                            My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                            Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                            When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                             One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                            The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                             The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                               In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                            Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                            Sent from my iPad

                            On Sep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                             

                            Thanks, Ed.


                            We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                            I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                            Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                            Barry

                            Currently boatless.





                            --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                            Barry,

                            I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                            FWIW,
                            Ed



                            From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                            Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                             
                            I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                             
                            Conrad
                            Another J
                            # 46
                            From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                            Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                             
                             
                            I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                            Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                            I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                            Thanks,

                            Barry
                            J/42 wannabe owner





                            --
                            Tom Keffer
                            keffer@...
                            +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                            +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                            Skype: tkeffer




                            --
                            Tom Keffer
                            keffer@...
                            +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                            +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                            Skype: tkeffer
                          • Thomas Keffer
                            The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. -tk ... -- Tom Keffer keffer@threefools.org +1 541-386-8891 (h) +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                            Message 13 of 23 , Sep 17, 2013
                              The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                              -tk


                              On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                               

                              The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                              Bill

                              Sent from my iPad

                              On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                               

                              Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                              Sent from my iPhone

                              On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                               

                              Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                              This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                              Bill

                              Sent from my iPad

                              On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                               

                              Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                              Sent from my iPhone

                              On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                               

                              My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                              Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                              When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                               One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                              The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                               The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                 In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                              Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                              Sent from my iPad

                              On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                               

                              Thanks, Ed.


                              We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                              I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                              Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                              Barry

                              Currently boatless.





                              --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                              Barry,

                              I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                              FWIW,
                              Ed



                              From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                              To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                              Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                              Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                               
                              I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                               
                              Conrad
                              Another J
                              # 46
                              From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                              Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                              To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                              Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                               
                               
                              I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                              Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                              I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                              Thanks,

                              Barry
                              J/42 wannabe owner





                              --
                              Tom Keffer
                              keffer@...
                              +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                              +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                              Skype: tkeffer
                            • Anthony M Iacono
                              Tom, How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one. Tony From: Thomas Keffer Reply-To:
                              Message 14 of 23 , Sep 17, 2013
                                Tom,
                                How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                Tony

                                From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                 

                                The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                -tk


                                On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                 

                                The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                Bill

                                Sent from my iPad

                                On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                 

                                Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                Sent from my iPhone

                                On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                 

                                Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                Bill

                                Sent from my iPad

                                On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                 

                                Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                Sent from my iPhone

                                On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                 

                                My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                 One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                 The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                   In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                Sent from my iPad

                                On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                 

                                Thanks, Ed.


                                We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                Barry

                                Currently boatless.





                                --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                Barry,

                                I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                FWIW,
                                Ed



                                From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                 
                                I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                 
                                Conrad
                                Another J
                                # 46
                                From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                 
                                 
                                I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                Thanks,

                                Barry
                                J/42 wannabe owner





                                --
                                Tom Keffer
                                keffer@...
                                +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                Skype: tkeffer

                              • Thomas Keffer
                                They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. I ll take a picture
                                Message 15 of 23 , Sep 17, 2013
                                  They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                  I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                  -tk


                                  On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                   

                                  Tom,
                                  How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                  Tony

                                  From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                  Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                  Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                  To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                  Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                   

                                  The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                  -tk


                                  On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                   

                                  The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                  Bill

                                  Sent from my iPad

                                  On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                   

                                  Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                  Sent from my iPhone

                                  On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                   

                                  Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                  This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                  Bill

                                  Sent from my iPad

                                  On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                   

                                  Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                  Sent from my iPhone

                                  On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                   

                                  My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                  Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                  When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                   One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                  The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                   The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                     In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                  Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                  Sent from my iPad

                                  On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                   

                                  Thanks, Ed.


                                  We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                  I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                  Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                  Barry

                                  Currently boatless.





                                  --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                  Barry,

                                  I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                  FWIW,
                                  Ed



                                  From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                  To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                  Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                  Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                   
                                  I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                   
                                  Conrad
                                  Another J
                                  # 46
                                  From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                  Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                  To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                  Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                   
                                   
                                  I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                  Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                  I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                  Thanks,

                                  Barry
                                  J/42 wannabe owner





                                  --
                                  Tom Keffer
                                  keffer@...
                                  +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                  +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                  Skype: tkeffer




                                  --
                                  Tom Keffer
                                  keffer@...
                                  +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                  +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                  Skype: tkeffer
                                • tony@shanomet.com
                                  Thanks. And does the shock cord stay attached to the strop deployed and functioning as a preventer?
                                  Message 16 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
                                    Thanks. And does the shock cord stay attached to the strop deployed and  functioning as a preventer? 

                                    On Sep 17, 2013, at 8:45 PM, Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                    I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                    -tk


                                    On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                     

                                    Tom,
                                    How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                    Tony

                                    From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                    Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                    Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                    To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                    Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                     

                                    The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                    -tk


                                    On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                     

                                    The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                    Bill

                                    Sent from my iPad

                                    On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                    Sent from my iPhone

                                    On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                    This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                    Bill

                                    Sent from my iPad

                                    On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                    Sent from my iPhone

                                    On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                     

                                    My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                    Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                    When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                     One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                    The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                     The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                       In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                    Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                    Sent from my iPad

                                    On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                     

                                    Thanks, Ed.


                                    We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                    I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                    Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                    Barry

                                    Currently boatless.





                                    --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                    Barry,

                                    I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                    FWIW,
                                    Ed



                                    From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                    Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                    Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                     
                                    I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                     
                                    Conrad
                                    Another J
                                    # 46
                                    From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                    Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                    Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                     
                                     
                                    I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                    Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                    I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                    Thanks,

                                    Barry
                                    J/42 wannabe owner





                                    --
                                    Tom Keffer
                                    keffer@...
                                    +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                    +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                    Skype: tkeffer




                                    --
                                    Tom Keffer
                                    keffer@...
                                    +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                    +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                    Skype: tkeffer

                                  • Anthony M Iacono
                                    Thanks, and does the shock cord stay attached to the strop when deployed as a preventer and then pull back to the boom when releasee? From: Thomas Keffer
                                    Message 17 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
                                      Thanks, and does the shock cord stay attached to the strop when deployed as a preventer and then pull back to the boom when releasee?

                                      From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                      Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 17:45:29 -0700
                                      To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                       

                                      They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                      I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                      -tk


                                      On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                       

                                      Tom,
                                      How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                      Tony

                                      From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                      Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                      To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                      Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                       

                                      The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                      -tk


                                      On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                       

                                      The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                      Bill

                                      Sent from my iPad

                                      On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                       

                                      Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                      Sent from my iPhone

                                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                       

                                      Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                      This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                      Bill

                                      Sent from my iPad

                                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                       

                                      Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                      Sent from my iPhone

                                      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                       

                                      My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                      Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                      When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                       One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                      The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                       The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                         In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                      Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                      Sent from my iPad

                                      On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                       

                                      Thanks, Ed.


                                      We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                      I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                      Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                      Barry

                                      Currently boatless.





                                      --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                      Barry,

                                      I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                      FWIW,
                                      Ed



                                      From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                      Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                       
                                      I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                       
                                      Conrad
                                      Another J
                                      # 46
                                      From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                      Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                       
                                       
                                      I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                      Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                      I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                      Thanks,

                                      Barry
                                      J/42 wannabe owner





                                      --
                                      Tom Keffer
                                      keffer@...
                                      +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                      +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                      Skype: tkeffer




                                      --
                                      Tom Keffer
                                      keffer@...
                                      +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                      +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                      Skype: tkeffer

                                    • Thomas Keffer
                                      No. One could do that, but it would create a barrier to walking forward. I just have an eye splice on the end of the strop. The shock cord has one of those
                                      Message 18 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
                                        No. One could do that, but it would create a barrier to walking forward.

                                        I just have an eye splice on the end of the strop. The shock cord has one of those plastic shock cord hooks at the end (like this), which I use to hook into the eye splice.

                                        Instead of an eye splice, you could put the stainless shackle at the end of the strop, but that might increase the weight enough that it wouldn't stow neatly against the boom.

                                        -tk


                                        On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 6:04 AM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                         

                                        Thanks, and does the shock cord stay attached to the strop when deployed as a preventer and then pull back to the boom when releasee?

                                        From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                        Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 17:45:29 -0700

                                        To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                         

                                        They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                        I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                        -tk


                                        On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                         

                                        Tom,
                                        How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                        Tony

                                        From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                        Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                        To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                        Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                         

                                        The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                        -tk


                                        On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                         

                                        The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                        Bill

                                        Sent from my iPad

                                        On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                         

                                        Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                        Sent from my iPhone

                                        On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                         

                                        Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                        This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                        Bill

                                        Sent from my iPad

                                        On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                         

                                        Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                        Sent from my iPhone

                                        On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                         

                                        My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                        Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                        When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                         One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                        The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                         The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                           In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                        Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                        Sent from my iPad

                                        On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                         

                                        Thanks, Ed.


                                        We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                        I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                        Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                        Barry

                                        Currently boatless.





                                        --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                        Barry,

                                        I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                        FWIW,
                                        Ed



                                        From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                        Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                         
                                        I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                         
                                        Conrad
                                        Another J
                                        # 46
                                        From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                        Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                        Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                         
                                         
                                        I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                        Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                        I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                        Thanks,

                                        Barry
                                        J/42 wannabe owner





                                        --
                                        Tom Keffer
                                        keffer@...
                                        +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                        +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                        Skype: tkeffer




                                        --
                                        Tom Keffer
                                        keffer@...
                                        +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                        +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                        Skype: tkeffer




                                        --
                                        Tom Keffer
                                        keffer@...
                                        +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                        +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                        Skype: tkeffer
                                      • William Stellin
                                        While I still think using a snap shackle attached directly to the boom end bail is the easiest way to rig a preventer, I offer this suggestion for those that
                                        Message 19 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
                                          While I still think using a snap shackle attached directly to the boom end bail is the easiest way to rig a preventer, I offer this suggestion for those that want to use a strop.  Why not install a small cleat at the bottom of the boom about where the boom vang attaches and  cleat the strop to it when it is not used.  This way, the line can be drum tight and not sag which would be the case with shock cord as it ages.  Also the tension on the strop can be adjusted to keep it from slapping against the boom under certain wind and direction conditions.
                                          Bill

                                          Sent from my iPad

                                          On Sep 18, 2013, at 9:43 AM, "Thomas Keffer" <tkeffer@...> wrote:

                                           

                                          No. One could do that, but it would create a barrier to walking forward.

                                          I just have an eye splice on the end of the strop. The shock cord has one of those plastic shock cord hooks at the end (like this), which I use to hook into the eye splice.

                                          Instead of an eye splice, you could put the stainless shackle at the end of the strop, but that might increase the weight enough that it wouldn't stow neatly against the boom.

                                          -tk


                                          On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 6:04 AM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                           

                                          Thanks, and does the shock cord stay attached to the strop when deployed as a preventer and then pull back to the boom when releasee?

                                          From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                          Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                          Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 17:45:29 -0700

                                          To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                          Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                           

                                          They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                          I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                          -tk


                                          On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                           

                                          Tom,
                                          How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                          Tony

                                          From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                          Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                          Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                          To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                          Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                           

                                          The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                          -tk


                                          On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                           

                                          The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                          Bill

                                          Sent from my iPad

                                          On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                           

                                          Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                          Sent from my iPhone

                                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                           

                                          Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                          This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                          Bill

                                          Sent from my iPad

                                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                           

                                          Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                          Sent from my iPhone

                                          On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                           

                                          My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                          Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                          When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                           One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                          The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                           The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                             In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                          Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                          Sent from my iPad

                                          On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                           

                                          Thanks, Ed.


                                          We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                          I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                          Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                          Barry

                                          Currently boatless.





                                          --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                          Barry,

                                          I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                          FWIW,
                                          Ed



                                          From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                          Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                           
                                          I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                           
                                          Conrad
                                          Another J
                                          # 46
                                          From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                          Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                          Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                           
                                           
                                          I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                          Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                          I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                          Thanks,

                                          Barry
                                          J/42 wannabe owner





                                          --
                                          Tom Keffer
                                          keffer@...
                                          +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                          +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                          Skype: tkeffer




                                          --
                                          Tom Keffer
                                          keffer@...
                                          +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                          +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                          Skype: tkeffer




                                          --
                                          Tom Keffer
                                          keffer@...
                                          +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                          +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                          Skype: tkeffer

                                        • tony@shanomet.com
                                          Got it. Thx. Sent from my iPhone
                                          Message 20 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
                                            Got it. Thx. 

                                            Sent from my iPhone

                                            On Sep 18, 2013, at 9:43 AM, Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...> wrote:

                                             

                                            No. One could do that, but it would create a barrier to walking forward.

                                            I just have an eye splice on the end of the strop. The shock cord has one of those plastic shock cord hooks at the end (like this), which I use to hook into the eye splice.

                                            Instead of an eye splice, you could put the stainless shackle at the end of the strop, but that might increase the weight enough that it wouldn't stow neatly against the boom.

                                            -tk


                                            On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 6:04 AM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                             

                                            Thanks, and does the shock cord stay attached to the strop when deployed as a preventer and then pull back to the boom when releasee?

                                            From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                            Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                            Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 17:45:29 -0700

                                            To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                            Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                             

                                            They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

                                            I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.

                                            -tk


                                            On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:
                                             

                                            Tom,
                                            How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.
                                            Tony

                                            From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                                            Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                            Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
                                            To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                                            Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                             

                                            The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 

                                            -tk


                                            On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
                                             

                                            The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.
                                            Bill

                                            Sent from my iPad

                                            On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                             

                                            Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

                                            Sent from my iPhone

                                            On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                             

                                            Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
                                            This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.
                                            Bill

                                            Sent from my iPad

                                            On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:

                                             

                                            Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

                                            Sent from my iPhone

                                            On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

                                             

                                            My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
                                            Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

                                            When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

                                             One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
                                            The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

                                             The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

                                               In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

                                            Bill  Jaywalker  #6

                                            Sent from my iPad

                                            On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:

                                             

                                            Thanks, Ed.


                                            We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.


                                            I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.


                                            Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


                                            Barry

                                            Currently boatless.





                                            --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                                            Barry,

                                            I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.

                                            FWIW,
                                            Ed



                                            From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
                                            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
                                            Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

                                             
                                            I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
                                             
                                            Conrad
                                            Another J
                                            # 46
                                            From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
                                            Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
                                            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                                            Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
                                             
                                             
                                            I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

                                            Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

                                            I know it is just a cosmetic issue.

                                            Thanks,

                                            Barry
                                            J/42 wannabe owner





                                            --
                                            Tom Keffer
                                            keffer@...
                                            +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                            +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                            Skype: tkeffer




                                            --
                                            Tom Keffer
                                            keffer@...
                                            +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                            +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                            Skype: tkeffer




                                            --
                                            Tom Keffer
                                            keffer@...
                                            +1 541-386-8891 (h)
                                            +1 541-490-9507 (c)
                                            Skype: tkeffer

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