Re: [j4x-owners-group] Re: More J/42 questions
- What fleet are you in?New England would charge us 78 for any sprit length up to 10% of J.Our local fleet also rate us 75 Cruising even with 135% #2 as max LP !-bb
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On Aug 18, 2012, at 10:34 AM, Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...> wrote:
We rate 75 as well. Also have full draft and carbon spar.My certificate givesJ=14.70JC=15.92so the difference is less than 10%-tkOn Sat, Aug 18, 2012 at 10:29 AM, Bill Bowers <wfb01983@...> wrote:Hi TomAccording to PHRFNE your sprit would cost us 3 sec/mi for a sprit up to 10% of J. We have a full draft 42 with carbon mast and no pole/ bow roller tack for Asails and currently rate 75. What is your rating?ThanksBill BowersConverJence
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On Aug 17, 2012, at 8:39 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:
TomDoes your sprit change your rating.Bill Stellin. Jaywalker
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On Aug 17, 2012, at 10:25 PM, "Thomas Keffer" <tkeffer@...> wrote:
Lot of questions there!I'll focus on only one: flying an asymmetric. I use a little bowsprit that fits into one side of the bow roller. You can see it here. It gets the tack about 12 inches in front of the forestay, which makes a world of difference in being able to point deep. As for gybing, I usually gybe the main first, keeping the asym filled. You then ease the sheet, letting the chute fly like a flag in front of the boat. The trick is not to pull in the new sheet too quickly. Once the clew is well past the forestay, it's time to start pulling in the new sheet.Works for us racing in up to about 15 knots apparent. Beyond that, I wouldn't dare fly it at all.-tk
- When we jibe we bring the main in to the center of the boat and very quickly unsnap one shackle and snap in the other one, then finish the jibe and ease the main out on the opposite side.It must be done fast, but since we've winched the main sheet in, the boom is under control.We sailed across the Atlantic almost all dead downwind using this method. We tried to stay on the same tack for long periods but often a squall would force us to jibe. I can't remember any problems we had except we had to be creative with where to winch it in. The genoa was on the same side as the preventer so often we would cleat the main sheet on that side and use the main winch. I refitted turning blocks for the main sheet with cam stops and added normal cleats near the winch so I could take the main sheet off the winch under load and cleat it. This has proved to be very helpful when you need another winch in several situations.So as to not get an override on the preventer winch, I use a snatch block near and lower than the winch so the lead is proper. This has to opened when jibing so the preventer goes directly from the end of the boom to the bow. The snatch block is attached to a pad eye at the toe rail near the winches so it can be reached easily from the cockpit.The beauty of this setup is that all the pad eyes and snatch blocks can be used for lots of other things as well. We leave the snatch blocks on all the time hanging them from the lower life lines.The one for the bow we leave on the line when it is coiled and stowed.Bill
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On Aug 20, 2012, at 4:47 PM, "Anthony M Iacono" <tony@...> wrote:Bill,If it is windy, maybe with a following sea, how do you hold the boom steady and centered ? TonyFrom: William Stellin <wstellin@...>
Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 15:34:32 -0400
To: "firstname.lastname@example.org" <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Re: More J/42 questionsYes, I have a strong pad eye just forward of the windlass where I fix a snatch block. The preventer has a snap shackle at each end. One of them is attached to the bail at the end of the boom with the other end on a winch. When we jibe we unsnap one when the boom is centered and snap on the other one.Bill
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On Aug 20, 2012, at 12:28 PM, "conrad deeter" <cdsail123@...> wrote:
Main preventer... do you run a line from the aft end of the boom to a turning block of some kind at the bow and thenback to a cleat/winch on the opposite side?
From: firstname.lastname@example.org [mailto:email@example.com ] On Behalf Of William Stellin
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2012 11:15 AM
Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Re: More J/42 questions
The blocks you refer to about midway up the toe rail could have been used for the after guy control line when using the pole for a symmetrical spinnaker or when the genoa has been polled out and you want absolute control over the pole. Are the blocks actually attached to the perforated toerail. If so, it is not a strong enough structure especially for use with a block for a preventer. (Rod warned me of that).
If you look at J Boats gallery of pictures for the 42, you will see a standup block about where the midship cleat is. The block is thru bolted and located just inside the toe rail. This is to be used for the spin afterguy.
On our boat, instead of a permanent block we have a super strong pad eye and use snatch blocks.
RE : A sail tack. We use a block on a bail attached to the bow roller. I am not convinced a short sprit is much better. The sprit would have to be the length of the J meter boats to really get the sail outfront. We use the spin pole mounted almost on deck occasionally but frankly it ' s more bother than worth. For cruising we use an ATN sock and pull it down when we jibe mainly cause there are only the two of us and these sails have a nasty habit of wrapping around the roller furled genoa unless the maneuver is done perfectly. When we don ' t use the sock, we jibe inside the tack luff and the genoa.
Bill Stellin. Jaywalker
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On Aug 20, 2012, at 11:28 AM, "Anthony M Iacono" <tony@...> wrote:
Wayne, the spinnaker discussion about the
little bowsprit that fits into one side of the bow roller was interesting, (I ' d like to have one, but I have only one Anchor bow roller) I use another technique on my 42 when racing. Run the tack line through the end of the Spinnaker pole with the pole low to the deck. For cruising I put a turning block on the anchor roller.
I know you are hungry for some other comments.
Is the block you mentioned attached to the genoa track or is it a turning block just aft of it?
The blocks mounted on each toe rail could have been for barber hauler leads, if they are aft of the clew, taking the tail to the cabin top winch (maybe also through the block at the aft of the track?). It is not the best place for a preventer. Safer to take thepreventer line to a strong turning block attached to the the bow cleat and back to a secondary winch.
My ice box works great as is. Ive never had an issue with the cockpit table mount leaking and I use it often. My Yanmar 47 Turbo always has had what seems to be low pressure, but is a solid dependable engine.
Thanks for the reply about the spinnaker. Sorry to start any skirmishes about ratings. We have always jibed bringing the new clew in hard and not letting the sail fly out like a flag and then pull it around. Looking forward to trying that. I can see where it should be less of a fight. Any thoughts on the other questions?
On 8/17/2012 10:25 PM, Thomas Keffer wrote:
Lot of questions there!
I ' ll focus on only one: flying an asymmetric. I use a little bowsprit that fits into one side of the bow roller. You can see it here. It gets the tack about 12 inches in front of the forestay, which makes a world of difference in being able to point deep. As for gybing, I usually gybe the main first, keeping the asym filled. You then ease the sheet, letting the chute fly like a flag in front of the boat. The trick is not topull in the new sheet too quickly. Once the clew is well past the forestay, it ' s time to start pulling in the new sheet.
Works for us racing in up to about 15 knots apparent. Beyond that, I wouldn ' t dare fly it at all.
On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 11:56 AM, Wayne Cassady <wcassady@...> wrote:
We have owned our J40 for several years now and after working through some pretty big projects I ' m beginning to notice other smaller things that I ' d like to work on and figure out. One is, we have a block mounted at the aft end of each genoa track. What is the purpose of these blocks? There are also blocks mounted about midway up the length of each toe rail. I recall that we may have used these to rig a dubious preventer on the boat delivery. What is the use for these blocks? Has anyone added insulation in the ice box? We added a Cold Machine and like it but it seems like it would benefit from some better insulation. We repowered a couple of years ago with a Yanmar 40hp which has worked flawlessly. This season however, the oil pressure gauge has begun to read low. Some discussions with Yanmar folks indicate that the pressure sensor on the engine block can get something blocking it and so removing it to clean it has been recommended. Does anyone have experience with this? Lastly, an actual sailing question. We used to sail with an A-chute rigged with the tack inside the forestay but have moved it to outside the forestay on a bail on the anchor roller. Jibing in light air is reasonable--heavy air-not so much. How do you typically execute a good jibewith that set up. Thanks.
On 8/13/2012 4:54 PM, Wayne Cassady wrote:
Great information on battery banks. I have always wanted to do a Transpac someday. I noticed the pier that washed up in Oregon from Japan a few weeks ago and having done some offshore work, I must say that thing floating around out there in the dark is one of my worst fears.
Wayne (J40 Southern Cross--former Pipe Dream)
On 8/13/2012 2:55 PM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham wrote:
On our J/42 we have 2 house, 1 Starter the initial install was done before we bought the boat. Starter is located under the aft birth just beyond the muffler. Both House are under the seat in front of the Nav station, along with our charger/inverter. We use the space under the nav seat for emergency flares, emergency medical, a demasting kit and a 100 ' of Spectra able to be used in emergency.
No leak in cockpit table mount. We don ' t have a table. Do you use yours and how is it configured?
I would be interested in more dialog on power if anyone is willing....
When asked how many ah my house battery setup provides, I usually say 395ah, as derived from my calcualation of reserve battery power or available. How are you calculating your ah numbers?
My research showed reserve power is seen as "usable" power and is often displayed as "Reserve Capacity Minutes at 25Amps". Translate this to how much power we can get from a battery before its voltage gets too low to drive most equipment. Formula: Battery Capacity = (Reserve minutes at 25 Amps) / (60 min) X (25 Amps). So a battery rated for 600minutes@25 amps has 250Amp Hours. If you have 2 batteries add them together. I have Two Lifeline GPL-8DL. they are 8D Batteries: 1battery = 475/60*25=197.92 AH. 2 Batteries=198X2=396 Amp Hours. Battery full = 396, Battery empty=0, When at zero, battery puts out about 10.5V. Lifeline Batteries we have: Reserve=475 minues @25Amps, It indicates the number of minutes a fullycharged battery at 80°F can be discharged at 25 AMPS and not fall below 1.75 volts per cell.
On our recent race to Hawaii from San Francisco , we used about 6-8ah and found topping off the batteries once or twice a day the most comfortable. I haven ' t experimented with how far down I let the batteries go before recharging. We have a solar panel setup capable of 10-12 ah in direct sun, but rarely see more than than 6ah on a great day for a few hours. It is my design for keeping the batteries topped off when on a hook un-attended. Our frig is new from frig-a-boat with a keel-cooler, it takes about 2-5ah when active, but since we don ' t touch the frig much when underway, it cycle on at some point but doesn ' t stay on much; this setup is new, so I dont have much experience with it.
Our biggest draw is Dual chartplotters(E80s) and radar, when these are actively used, we end up charging daily for sure. We have a windvane for steering when on windpower and use a powered autopilot when the motor is running. SSB and VHF aren ' t much of a draw. We did discover on our last trip that the boat stereo draws about 2ah when cranked up, so we may be looking into that a bit in the future.
In our situation, I ' m more than happy with 396, and am more concerned with how much it takes to recharge such a large house. Our old 120 Alternator, needed to have the motor at 4000rpm (our yanmar at 2000rpm) to get 90A out (per balmar ' s output graph, out output has always be disappointingly less), this means if you draw down our house of 396 the motor will need to run for 4+ hours. Of Course, this would assume we run electronics for 2 days before recharging, which we never do. I ' ve never run the battery much below 12V, so wonder if I ' m doing a dis-service to my reserve power.
Therefore, I ' d suggest if adding more house above 200ah or so, I ' d also suggest looking at the charging system.
I ' d be interested in what kind of (off grid) charging systems others are using. We upgraded to a 150A Balmar and have some solar. I see now lots of interest in hydro or wind from friends. I ' d like to move away from the motor running if possible. Since we race, I ' m not as interested in drag in the water, but saw some others at the 2012 Pac Cup used hydro generators; so I"m going to follow up with them on their rational.
By the way, our boat is returning from Hawaii at this time to San Francisco . Lots of marine garbage reported by the crew, no clear indication if its from Japan .
We repowered house bank of batteries with 3 220ah batteries housed in a
seat just forward of the galley sink. Makes a great "L" shaped settee (a
little tight for some) especially when seating a group for dinner or when
you only want to use 1/2 the table. Having 600+ah has proven to be great
as we ' ve added more electronics and rarely have to run the engine more
than once a day even when on extended passages--except when using auto
pilot extensively. We ' re hull #20 and have never had problem with moisture
intrusion from cockpit table stand. Newt Merrill
Newton P.S. Merrill
+1 541-386-8891 (h)
+1 541-490-9507 (c)