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Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

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  • Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
    Dear all,   I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.   This is not the
    Message 1 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
    Dear all,
     
    I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
     
    This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
     
    Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
     
    Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
     
    Enjoy,
    Scott
    J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA

    From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
    Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:44 PM
    Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Force 10 Model Number?

     
    My unit says model #60350.
    I can also send the serial number if that's helpful.
    -tk
    ________________
    Blame my Android for any typos.
    On Sep 30, 2011 5:26 AM, "shanecreamer@..." <shearwater@...> wrote:
     
    I need to replace my Force 10 Mariner range in my 1998 J 42. Force 10 has changed the ranges they offer and they have told me that I need to get the model number on my existing oven to figure out which new model will fit correctly. The model number is on the bottom right front side (facing forward). Unfortunately, the label on my oven is obliterated.

    Does anyone know the Force 10 model number for J 42s? In the alternative, if anyone has replaced their oven recently, can you please tell me which model oven you replaced it with?

    Thanks,

    Shane Creamer
    J 42 #30 Baruna



  • Thomas Keffer
    You re teasing us! How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way? And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah? It s always bugged me that
    Message 2 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
    • 0 Attachment
      You're teasing us!

      How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way?

      And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah?

      It's always bugged me that it takes about 24 Ah a day just to power up the main DC panel. :-)

      Welcome to Portland!  I live in Hood River, but VELOCITY lives at the Portland Yacht Club on the Columbia.

      -tk

      On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:26 AM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:
       
      [Attachment(s) from Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham included below]

      Dear all,
       
      I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
       
      This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
       
      Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
       
      Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
       
      Enjoy,
      Scott
      J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA

    • Conrad Deeter
      Scott, This is a very useful worksheet. Can you send it without the read-only format? Thanks, Conrad Another J # 46 _____ From:
      Message 3 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
      • 0 Attachment

        Scott,

         

        This is a very useful worksheet.  Can you send it without the read-only format? 

         

        Thanks,

         

        Conrad

        Another J # 46

         


        From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
        Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 10:26 AM
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010 [1 Attachment]

         

         

        Dear all,

         

        I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii , I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.

         

        This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.

         

        Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 

         

        Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.

         

        Enjoy,

        Scott

        J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA

         

        From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:44 PM
        Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Force 10 Model Number?

         

        My unit says model #60350.

        I can also send the serial number if that's helpful.

        -tk
        ________________
        Blame my Android for any typos.

        On Sep 30, 2011 5:26 AM, "shanecreamer@..." <shearwater@...> wrote:

         

        I need to replace my Force 10 Mariner range in my 1998 J 42. Force 10 has changed the ranges they offer and they have told me that I need to get the model number on my existing oven to figure out which new model will fit correctly. The model number is on the bottom right front side (facing forward). Unfortunately, the label on my oven is obliterated.

        Does anyone know the Force 10 model number for J 42s? In the alternative, if anyone has replaced their oven recently, can you please tell me which model oven you replaced it with?

        Thanks,

        Shane Creamer
        J 42 #30 Baruna

         

      • Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
        Hi Conrad,   I m just now converting to Excell 2010 and didn t realize it is saving as read-only.  Does this version work?   Scott
        Message 4 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
        Hi Conrad,
         
        I'm just now converting to Excell 2010 and didn't realize it is saving as read-only.  Does this version work?
         
        Scott

        From: Conrad Deeter <cdsail@...>
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:50 AM
        Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

         
        Scott,
         
        This is a very useful worksheet.  Can you send it without the read-only format? 
         
        Thanks,
         
        Conrad
        Another J # 46
         
        From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
        Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 10:26 AM
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010 [1 Attachment]
         
         
        Dear all,
         
        I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii , I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
         
        This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
         
        Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
         
        Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
         
        Enjoy,
        Scott
        J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA
         
        From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:44 PM
        Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Force 10 Model Number?
         
        My unit says model #60350.
        I can also send the serial number if that's helpful.
        -tk
        ________________
        Blame my Android for any typos.
        On Sep 30, 2011 5:26 AM, "shanecreamer@..." <shearwater@...> wrote:
         
        I need to replace my Force 10 Mariner range in my 1998 J 42. Force 10 has changed the ranges they offer and they have told me that I need to get the model number on my existing oven to figure out which new model will fit correctly. The model number is on the bottom right front side (facing forward). Unfortunately, the label on my oven is obliterated.

        Does anyone know the Force 10 model number for J 42s? In the alternative, if anyone has replaced their oven recently, can you please tell me which model oven you replaced it with?

        Thanks,

        Shane Creamer
        J 42 #30 Baruna
         


      • Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
        Hi,   Attched are pictures of the rear wing with solar panel and the flex panels on the dodger (prior to us tieing them down with line for the race).   We
        Message 5 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
        Hi,
         
        Attched are pictures of the rear wing with solar panel and the flex panels on the dodger (prior to us tieing them down with line for the race).
         
        We have a dual house batteries which are AGM, based on Lifeline Two 8D Batteries: Each is 475/60*25=197.92 AH.  198X2=396 Amp Hours.  These are amounted under the starboard Setee bunk alogn with the charger/inverter and solar regulator. 
         
        I have a wing mounted on the back of the boat with a davits to lift a dinghy.  I mounted the panel on the davits.  I also have a race Dodger (a bit of an oxymoron I realize more on that if interested), that I mounted 4 flexible solar panels on for the race.  Solar output proved to be useless on our last race since it was cloudy almost every day. 
         
        I am not happy with the results of my budget, nor am I happy with how much charging I needed to do while underway.  We made a series of decisions that led to this, but I'm starting to unwind the causes before our next race. It takes for ever to charge them when out on the water. Part of my refit is redoing most of the core DC wiring to help me turn off a bunch of junk I don't need while underway. I guess I started by adding all the cool stuff and have now realized the cost....
         
        The flex panels perform well and are out of the way, but proved useless without sun.
         
        Thanks for the interest.
         
        Scott

        From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
        To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
        Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:37 AM
        Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

         
        You're teasing us!

        How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way?

        And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah?

        It's always bugged me that it takes about 24 Ah a day just to power up the main DC panel. :-)

        Welcome to Portland!  I live in Hood River, but VELOCITY lives at the Portland Yacht Club on the Columbia.

        -tk

        On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:26 AM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:
         
        [Attachment(s) from Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham included below]
        Dear all,
         
        I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
         
        This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
         
        Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
         
        Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
         
        Enjoy,
        Scott
        J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA



      • Conrad Deeter
        Scott, Yes the file is accessible now. Thanks, Conrad _____ From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
        Message 6 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
        • 0 Attachment

          Scott,

           

          Yes the file is accessible now.  Thanks,

           

          Conrad

           


          From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
          Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 10:58 AM
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010 [1 Attachment]

           

           

          Hi Conrad,

           

          I'm just now converting to Excell 2010 and didn't realize it is saving as read-only.  Does this version work?

           

          Scott

           

          From: Conrad Deeter <cdsail@...>
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:50 AM
          Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

           

          Scott,

           

          This is a very useful worksheet.  Can you send it without the read-only format? 

           

          Thanks,

           

          Conrad

          Another J # 46

           

          From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
          Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 10:26 AM
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010 [1 Attachment]

           

           

          Dear all,

           

          I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii , I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.

           

          This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.

           

          Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 

           

          Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.

           

          Enjoy,

          Scott

          J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA

           

          From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 3:44 PM
          Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Force 10 Model Number?

           

          My unit says model #60350.

          I can also send the serial number if that's helpful.

          -tk
          ________________
          Blame my Android for any typos.

          On Sep 30, 2011 5:26 AM, "shanecreamer@..." <shearwater@...> wrote:

           

          I need to replace my Force 10 Mariner range in my 1998 J 42. Force 10 has changed the ranges they offer and they have told me that I need to get the model number on my existing oven to figure out which new model will fit correctly. The model number is on the bottom right front side (facing forward). Unfortunately, the label on my oven is obliterated.

          Does anyone know the Force 10 model number for J 42s? In the alternative, if anyone has replaced their oven recently, can you please tell me which model oven you replaced it with?

          Thanks,

          Shane Creamer
          J 42 #30 Baruna

           

           

        • William Stellin
          One way to shorten charging time is to install a bigger alternator. I changed my stock alt. For a high output 135 amp hour with a separate smart regulator. We
          Message 7 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
          • 0 Attachment
            One way to shorten charging time is to install a bigger alternator. I changed my stock alt. For a high output 135 amp hour with a separate smart regulator. We have a 55 watt solar panel that puts out about 3 amps max and 3 house bats. with combined total of about 250 AH.   On both Atlantic crossings we ran the engine one hour at noon and one hour about 11pm. This was enough. We never had less than 60 percent of AH capacity left before charging. Our fridge is SeaFrost engine drive which was turned on only during the bat charging periods. We also have a starting bat of 84 amps separated from the house but with switches to use either for house or starting. It is a very simple but effective setup. No watermaker, air conditioner, or gen set.
            Bill Stellin.  Jaywalker #6

            Sent from my iPod

            On Oct 13, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:

             

            Hi,
             
            Attched are pictures of the rear wing with solar panel and the flex panels on the dodger (prior to us tieing them down with line for the race).
             
            We have a dual house batteries which are AGM, based on Lifeline Two 8D Batteries: Each is 475/60*25=197.92 AH.  198X2=396 Amp Hours.  These are amounted under the starboard Setee bunk alogn with the charger/inverter and solar regulator. 
             
            I have a wing mounted on the back of the boat with a davits to lift a dinghy.  I mounted the panel on the davits.  I also have a race Dodger (a bit of an oxymoron I realize more on that if interested), that I mounted 4 flexible solar panels on for the race.  Solar output proved to be useless on our last race since it was cloudy almost every day. 
             
            I am not happy with the results of my budget, nor am I happy with how much charging I needed to do while underway.  We made a series of decisions that led to this, but I'm starting to unwind the causes before our next race. It takes for ever to charge them when out on the water. Part of my refit is redoing most of the core DC wiring to help me turn off a bunch of junk I don't need while underway. I guess I started by adding all the cool stuff and have now realized the cost....
             
            The flex panels perform well and are out of the way, but proved useless without sun.
             
            Thanks for the interest.
             
            Scott

            From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
            To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
            Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:37 AM
            Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

             
            You're teasing us!

            How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way?

            And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah?

            It's always bugged me that it takes about 24 Ah a day just to power up the main DC panel. :-)

            Welcome to Portland!  I live in Hood River, but VELOCITY lives at the Portland Yacht Club on the Columbia.

            -tk

            On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:26 AM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:
             
            [Attachment(s) from Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham included below]
            Dear all,
             
            I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
             
            This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
             
            Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
             
            Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
             
            Enjoy,
            Scott
            J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA



          • Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
            Great stuff.  We are folowing suit.  I just installed a 150 amp altnernator and looking to see if the regulator is effective for my use.   I think we d like
            Message 8 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
            • 0 Attachment
              Great stuff.  We are folowing suit.  I just installed a 150 amp altnernator and looking to see if the regulator is effective for my use.
               
              I think we'd like to be down to matching solar output to daytime draw and charge just for the night use.  The problem we seem to have during the race is the desire to run a computer 24x7 and radar during the squal period at night so we can pick the best exist strategy on each storm.  Our fridge is fridgiboat, and was air cooled, we Just installed a keel cooler.  During the next race, I"m proposing we shut it down when not charging. 
               
              Any recommendations on Battery/usage monitor?  I used a handheld amp meter to measure all equipment one by one during my electrical budget setup.  But have found the link 1000 we have to not show what the solar is doing, so wanted to added a display to our solar so I can see what it is actually generating.
               
              Scott
               

              From: William Stellin <wstellin@...>
              To: "j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com" <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
              Cc: "j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com" <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:31 AM
              Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

               
              One way to shorten charging time is to install a bigger alternator. I changed my stock alt. For a high output 135 amp hour with a separate smart regulator. We have a 55 watt solar panel that puts out about 3 amps max and 3 house bats. with combined total of about 250 AH.   On both Atlantic crossings we ran the engine one hour at noon and one hour about 11pm. This was enough. We never had less than 60 percent of AH capacity left before charging. Our fridge is SeaFrost engine drive which was turned on only during the bat charging periods. We also have a starting bat of 84 amps separated from the house but with switches to use either for house or starting. It is a very simple but effective setup. No watermaker, air conditioner, or gen set.
              Bill Stellin.  Jaywalker #6

              Sent from my iPod

              On Oct 13, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:

               
              Hi,
               
              Attched are pictures of the rear wing with solar panel and the flex panels on the dodger (prior to us tieing them down with line for the race).
               
              We have a dual house batteries which are AGM, based on Lifeline Two 8D Batteries: Each is 475/60*25=197.92 AH.  198X2=396 Amp Hours.  These are amounted under the starboard Setee bunk alogn with the charger/inverter and solar regulator. 
               
              I have a wing mounted on the back of the boat with a davits to lift a dinghy.  I mounted the panel on the davits.  I also have a race Dodger (a bit of an oxymoron I realize more on that if interested), that I mounted 4 flexible solar panels on for the race.  Solar output proved to be useless on our last race since it was cloudy almost every day. 
               
              I am not happy with the results of my budget, nor am I happy with how much charging I needed to do while underway.  We made a series of decisions that led to this, but I'm starting to unwind the causes before our next race. It takes for ever to charge them when out on the water. Part of my refit is redoing most of the core DC wiring to help me turn off a bunch of junk I don't need while underway. I guess I started by adding all the cool stuff and have now realized the cost....
               
              The flex panels perform well and are out of the way, but proved useless without sun.
               
              Thanks for the interest.
               
              Scott

              From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
              To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
              Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:37 AM
              Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

               
              You're teasing us!

              How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way?

              And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah?

              It's always bugged me that it takes about 24 Ah a day just to power up the main DC panel. :-)

              Welcome to Portland!  I live in Hood River, but VELOCITY lives at the Portland Yacht Club on the Columbia.

              -tk

              On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:26 AM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:
               
              [Attachment(s) from Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham included below]
              Dear all,
               
              I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
               
              This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
               
              Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
               
              Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
               
              Enjoy,
              Scott
              J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA





            • William Stellin
              I have the Link 10 and it does show amps in from the solar panel. Every draw has to be off in order to show the actual input and since somethings can t be
              Message 9 of 15 , Oct 13, 2011
              • 0 Attachment
                I have the Link 10 and it does show amps in from the solar panel.  Every draw has to be off in order to show the actual input and since somethings can't be turned off completely I am not sure it is accurate down to the last 1/10 of an amp, but it give me a rough idea.  Since it is a small unit with only a max of about 3-4 amps per hour, it can't keep up with anything while we are underway, however at anchor on a sunny day it can replenish to 100%.
                We like to charge and run the fridge at the same time so as to balance the stress on the engine.


                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                From: sk_dickinson@...
                Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 12:57:09 -0700
                Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

                 

                Great stuff.  We are folowing suit.  I just installed a 150 amp altnernator and looking to see if the regulator is effective for my use.
                 
                I think we'd like to be down to matching solar output to daytime draw and charge just for the night use.  The problem we seem to have during the race is the desire to run a computer 24x7 and radar during the squal period at night so we can pick the best exist strategy on each storm.  Our fridge is fridgiboat, and was air cooled, we Just installed a keel cooler.  During the next race, I"m proposing we shut it down when not charging. 
                 
                Any recommendations on Battery/usage monitor?  I used a handheld amp meter to measure all equipment one by one during my electrical budget setup.  But have found the link 1000 we have to not show what the solar is doing, so wanted to added a display to our solar so I can see what it is actually generating.
                 
                Scott
                 

                From: William Stellin <wstellin@...>
                To: "j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com" <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                Cc: "j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com" <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
                Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 11:31 AM
                Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

                 
                One way to shorten charging time is to install a bigger alternator. I changed my stock alt. For a high output 135 amp hour with a separate smart regulator. We have a 55 watt solar panel that puts out about 3 amps max and 3 house bats. with combined total of about 250 AH.   On both Atlantic crossings we ran the engine one hour at noon and one hour about 11pm. This was enough. We never had less than 60 percent of AH capacity left before charging. Our fridge is SeaFrost engine drive which was turned on only during the bat charging periods. We also have a starting bat of 84 amps separated from the house but with switches to use either for house or starting. It is a very simple but effective setup. No watermaker, air conditioner, or gen set.
                Bill Stellin.  Jaywalker #6

                Sent from my iPod

                On Oct 13, 2011, at 12:13 PM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:

                 
                Hi,
                 
                Attched are pictures of the rear wing with solar panel and the flex panels on the dodger (prior to us tieing them down with line for the race).
                 
                We have a dual house batteries which are AGM, based on Lifeline Two 8D Batteries: Each is 475/60*25=197.92 AH.  198X2=396 Amp Hours.  These are amounted under the starboard Setee bunk alogn with the charger/inverter and solar regulator. 
                 
                I have a wing mounted on the back of the boat with a davits to lift a dinghy.  I mounted the panel on the davits.  I also have a race Dodger (a bit of an oxymoron I realize more on that if interested), that I mounted 4 flexible solar panels on for the race.  Solar output proved to be useless on our last race since it was cloudy almost every day. 
                 
                I am not happy with the results of my budget, nor am I happy with how much charging I needed to do while underway.  We made a series of decisions that led to this, but I'm starting to unwind the causes before our next race. It takes for ever to charge them when out on the water. Part of my refit is redoing most of the core DC wiring to help me turn off a bunch of junk I don't need while underway. I guess I started by adding all the cool stuff and have now realized the cost....
                 
                The flex panels perform well and are out of the way, but proved useless without sun.
                 
                Thanks for the interest.
                 
                Scott

                From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
                To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 8:37 AM
                Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

                 
                You're teasing us!

                How did you mount the solar panels in a race-worthy way?

                And, how did you get the Amp-hour capacity up to 396 Ah?

                It's always bugged me that it takes about 24 Ah a day just to power up the main DC panel. :-)

                Welcome to Portland!  I live in Hood River, but VELOCITY lives at the Portland Yacht Club on the Columbia.

                -tk

                On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 8:26 AM, Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham <sk_dickinson@...> wrote:
                 
                [Attachment(s) from Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham included below]
                Dear all,
                 
                I think I promised this some time ago.  For our race to Hawaii, I have a built a few models to help me manage the boat.
                 
                This is not the complete set, but it does have the Electrical Budget, Fuse listings, etc. and some safety stuff in it.  I'll be rebuilding as part of my 2012 race prep for another Pac Cup. I will promise (again) to share after we have finished our refit this winter.
                 
                Of course any feedback on improving this would be greatly appreaciated. 
                 
                Oh, I just moved to Portland (Tiki J is staying in SF) if anyone is in this area.
                 
                Enjoy,
                Scott
                J/42 #33 TikiJ in San Mateo (Bay area), CA






              • Paul Lever
                Scott, Nice spreadsheet, thx for posting. A couple of comments: Not sure I buy some of the current measurements. You have the reefer compressor at 1 hour a day
                Message 10 of 15 , Oct 14, 2011
                • 0 Attachment
                  Scott,
                  Nice spreadsheet, thx for posting. A couple of comments:
                  Not sure I buy some of the current measurements. You have the reefer compressor at 1 hour a day at 51.9 amps. That can't be. It must be a total of 51.9 amps for the day. Maybe 7 amps/hr when on.

                  Your SSB Tx is listed as 4.3 amps. That is way too low to be getting a 100watt output. It should be more in the 15-25amps range, while Txíng. If it isn't then there is issues with your SSB install or you weren't on high power.

                  Your Link 100'0 should show you amps in and out. May be you should look where the solar output is placed on the battery bus.

                  On the 2nd electric tab you have a write up on the alternator output. Make sure you include the inefficiency of putting those amps back into the battery. If you have 100amps coming out of your  alternator going to the battery, (and no other draws on the system) than the batteries will get something like 90 amps put back in an hour, not a 100.

                  In the med kit. consider adding Silvadene burn cream (silver sulfadiazine). Galley burns and engine spray burns are a definite risk and need to be dealt with very early to avoid serious infection.

                  Not sure if your medkit has the equivalent of these, but I found the BloodStopper Bandages nice to have in the kit. If for no other reason that the name on the label gets your attention. They are cheap
                  Blood Stopper Bandage

                  Paul
                  J/37 Jeorgia
                  svjeorgia.blogspot.com

                • Scott Dickinson & Kim Worsham
                  Paul, I think you reviewed the model closer than I did!  Thanks so much for catching the mistakes.  You are right on about the frig.  I don t remember the
                  Message 11 of 15 , Oct 14, 2011
                  • 0 Attachment
                    Paul,
                    I think you reviewed the model closer than I did!  Thanks so much for catching the mistakes.  You are right on about the frig.  I don't remember the SSB details, but I agree with your take.  As for charge rate, I tried to include a variable (set to 95% on this version) that shows the absorbtion rate of the battery.  Generally, I found this varied over the charging cycle and the "budget" has been just sort of a targeting model.  I found my charging concept to be a bit simplistic, I"ll be testing and off shore scenerio before the actual race. 
                     
                    I really appreciate all your input, I'll include in this on my next time around.  I will add the med kit stuff.  My current kit got sort of "distributed" after our last race or was expired and I'll be rebuilding it with some stuff I had left over.
                     
                    BTW, I really enjoy this forum and than everyone for what they contribute even when I'm silent. 
                     
                    Scott

                    From: Paul Lever <svjeorgia@...>
                    To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
                    Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 11:18 AM
                    Subject: [j4x-owners-group] Re: Tiki J Electrical Budget and planning file for Pac Cup 2010

                     
                    Scott,
                    Nice spreadsheet, thx for posting. A couple of comments:
                    Not sure I buy some of the current measurements. You have the reefer compressor at 1 hour a day at 51.9 amps. That can't be. It must be a total of 51.9 amps for the day. Maybe 7 amps/hr when on.

                    Your SSB Tx is listed as 4.3 amps. That is way too low to be getting a 100watt output. It should be more in the 15-25amps range, while Txíng. If it isn't then there is issues with your SSB install or you weren't on high power.

                    Your Link 100'0 should show you amps in and out. May be you should look where the solar output is placed on the battery bus.

                    On the 2nd electric tab you have a write up on the alternator output. Make sure you include the inefficiency of putting those amps back into the battery. If you have 100amps coming out of your  alternator going to the battery, (and no other draws on the system) than the batteries will get something like 90 amps put back in an hour, not a 100.

                    In the med kit. consider adding Silvadene burn cream (silver sulfadiazine). Galley burns and engine spray burns are a definite risk and need to be dealt with very early to avoid serious infection.

                    Not sure if your medkit has the equivalent of these, but I found the BloodStopper Bandages nice to have in the kit. If for no other reason that the name on the label gets your attention. They are cheap
                    Blood Stopper Bandage

                    Paul
                    J/37 Jeorgia
                    svjeorgia.blogspot.com



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