I think we have all done basically the same thing with our boats as you have with yours. Regarding the shower sump in the forward head, I installed a float switch in the sump and leave the switch on when gone for an extended period of time. This way if the water from the mast fills the sump, it is automatically pumped away. So far no problems over three years using this fix. One important caveat. If the boat will be in an area of freezing temps. I don't use the float switch as the water might freeze and expand a little causing the float to switch the pump on with only frozen water which would ultimately burn out the pump.
Pearson did not do a good job fitting deck hatches and they all leak. With patience, I refitted the lids so they sit on their gaskets properly and then used a different kind of latch which gives positive downward force on the lid against the seal. The corny rope and jam cleat method was awkward to get at and didn't really pull the lid down. The latch is lockable although we never do since there is nothing of value in the space below.
If your boat has an anchor locker lid with wide slits in it for spin. lines, they can be plugged with a special hard rubber plug that I got from J/Boats. They are held in place with a bungy cord from underneath. They work well.
I am the original owner since buying it new in 1996 so I have had to suffer through all the problems. By the same token, I have been able to fix virtually everything myself, with some help from this owner group. Especially the warning about motor mount breakage on the motor corner where the SeaFrost compressor mounts. I took heed of the warning, but mine broke anyway. I had to drill out the broken bolt and re-tap the hole for a new boat. Luckily I didn't have to remove the engine to do the work.
Bill Stellin Jaywalker hull # 6 1996
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 00:24:04 -0400
Subject: [j4x-owners-group] POLL: Should we switch to Google Groups?
Although I have not commented on the many items discussed on the
yahoo site, I have appreciated getting the info and feel the Yahoo
has worked OK. I am not familiar with Google. If pictures can be
posted on the Google site please change my vote.
I will comment here on items mentioned that I remember and note that
I have had most of those problems. I have Canty J-42 #38 purchased
used in 2003.
Problems Lazarette hatch leaking. When I purchased the boat, there
was no protection for the engine panel. Water leakage through the
hatch had corroded the panel and had travelled 6 feet down the wires
to the starter solenoid. I learned quickly how to jump the engine
with a screwdriver. I ended up replacing the panel and wiring
harness. The engine panel now has a protective cover. I have
replaced seals, added block and tackle to tighten with jam cleat in
sail locker to tighten the seal and provide a means of locking the
Fuel Tank. had diesel in bilge when I returned to boat in Scotland
in spring of 2005. Could not find leak. The tank let loose crossing
from Shetland to Alesund. Norway. When we removed the tank we found
sawdust and screw in the corner which must have sat in 1/2" of
water. Norway. Welded lower corner in Alesund. Tank leaked
following winter and replaced with custom stainless tank in
Alesund. Unfortunately they I do not believe they added baffles
because the fuel sloshing under the bunk is annoying.
Radar mast- we have a 3" Edson mast which is removable. It seams
plenty strong. Of shore in certain conditions it vibrates which can
be very annoying. The vibration appears to come from a pumping
mast. A little tension on a check stay and the vibration disappears.
Ice Box cover We run two fiberglass battens athwart ship across the
hinged lid. The inboard side slides into a cut in the fiddle. The
outboard side has a small white cleats which the battens jam under.
head sump drain. We seam to get a good bit of water down the mast.
One year when the boat was left unattended for couple months the
water filled in the head enough to overflow ruin the forward cabin
deck. We now disconnect the sump hose at the drain fitting in the
main cabin so that it will drain into the bilge when we leave the
boat for any extended period. I believe there is also a filter there
which can clog.
Windless and anchor hatch. Replaced corroded electrical switch in
2004. Offshore have used plastic bag over windless sealed with duct
tape. I may have also used moretite around the hatch. I believe
much of the water in the anchor well is forced up from underneath by
the sea and drains out slower than it enters. We have stored fenders
and empty water jugs forward.
Cabin house winches. We have the same problem with the winch
installation. Of the 4 positions, they chose to locate the winches
on both sides so the gears can not be removed to service. I have
cleaned and lubricated the best I could and hope it is sufficient.
Removing the winches is not an easy job.
We are flying to Finland May 17th and will cruise the Baltic,
Denmark, Norway and Scotland for 3 months.