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Re:POLL: Should we switch to Google Groups?

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  • Newton PS Merrill
    I m open to change. Let us know. Thanks Tom, Newt Merrill Newton PS Merrill nmerr10001@aol.com (O)212-873-0287ext11 (C)917-860-0373 (F)212-579-1756
    Message 1 of 4 , May 10, 2010
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      I'm open to change. Let us know. Thanks Tom, Newt Merrill

      Newton PS Merrill
      nmerr10001@...
      (O)212-873-0287ext11
      (C)917-860-0373
      (F)212-579-1756
    • Paul Rogers
      Hi Tom Although I have not commented on the many items discussed on the yahoo site, I have appreciated getting the info and feel the Yahoo has worked OK. I am
      Message 2 of 4 , May 11, 2010
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        Hi Tom

        Although I have not commented on the many items discussed on the
        yahoo site, I have appreciated getting the info and feel the Yahoo
        has worked OK. I am not familiar with Google. If pictures can be
        posted on the Google site please change my vote.

        I will comment here on items mentioned that I remember and note that
        I have had most of those problems. I have Canty J-42 #38 purchased
        used in 2003.

        Problems Lazarette hatch leaking. When I purchased the boat, there
        was no protection for the engine panel. Water leakage through the
        hatch had corroded the panel and had travelled 6 feet down the wires
        to the starter solenoid. I learned quickly how to jump the engine
        with a screwdriver. I ended up replacing the panel and wiring
        harness. The engine panel now has a protective cover. I have
        replaced seals, added block and tackle to tighten with jam cleat in
        sail locker to tighten the seal and provide a means of locking the
        hatch.

        Fuel Tank. had diesel in bilge when I returned to boat in Scotland
        in spring of 2005. Could not find leak. The tank let loose crossing
        from Shetland to Alesund. Norway. When we removed the tank we found
        sawdust and screw in the corner which must have sat in 1/2" of
        water. Norway. Welded lower corner in Alesund. Tank leaked
        following winter and replaced with custom stainless tank in
        Alesund. Unfortunately they I do not believe they added baffles
        because the fuel sloshing under the bunk is annoying.

        Radar mast- we have a 3" Edson mast which is removable. It seams
        plenty strong. Of shore in certain conditions it vibrates which can
        be very annoying. The vibration appears to come from a pumping
        mast. A little tension on a check stay and the vibration disappears.

        Ice Box cover We run two fiberglass battens athwart ship across the
        hinged lid. The inboard side slides into a cut in the fiddle. The
        outboard side has a small white cleats which the battens jam under.

        head sump drain. We seam to get a good bit of water down the mast.
        One year when the boat was left unattended for couple months the
        water filled in the head enough to overflow ruin the forward cabin
        deck. We now disconnect the sump hose at the drain fitting in the
        main cabin so that it will drain into the bilge when we leave the
        boat for any extended period. I believe there is also a filter there
        which can clog.

        Windless and anchor hatch. Replaced corroded electrical switch in
        2004. Offshore have used plastic bag over windless sealed with duct
        tape. I may have also used moretite around the hatch. I believe
        much of the water in the anchor well is forced up from underneath by
        the sea and drains out slower than it enters. We have stored fenders
        and empty water jugs forward.

        Cabin house winches. We have the same problem with the winch
        installation. Of the 4 positions, they chose to locate the winches
        on both sides so the gears can not be removed to service. I have
        cleaned and lubricated the best I could and hope it is sufficient.
        Removing the winches is not an easy job.

        We are flying to Finland May 17th and will cruise the Baltic,
        Denmark, Norway and Scotland for 3 months.

        Best Regards,

        Paul
      • William Stellin
        I think we have all done basically the same thing with our boats as you have with yours. Regarding the shower sump in the forward head, I installed a float
        Message 3 of 4 , May 12, 2010
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          I think we have all done basically the same thing with our boats as you have with yours.  Regarding the shower sump in the forward head, I installed a float switch in the sump and leave the switch on when gone for an extended period of time.  This way if the water from the mast fills the sump, it is automatically pumped away.  So far no problems over three years using this fix.  One important caveat. If the boat will be in an area of freezing temps. I don't use the float switch as the water might freeze and expand a little causing the float to switch the pump on with only frozen water which would ultimately burn out the pump.
          Pearson did not do a good job fitting deck hatches and they all leak.  With patience, I refitted the lids so they sit on their gaskets properly and then used a different kind of latch which gives positive downward force on the lid against the seal.  The corny rope and jam cleat method was awkward to get at and didn't really pull the lid down.  The latch is lockable although we never do since there is nothing of value in the space below.
          If your boat has an anchor locker lid with wide slits in it for spin. lines, they can be plugged with a special hard rubber plug that I got from J/Boats.  They are held in place with a bungy cord from underneath.  They work well.
            I am the original owner since buying it new in 1996 so I have had to suffer through all the problems.  By the same token, I have been able to fix virtually everything myself, with some help from this owner group.  Especially the warning about motor mount breakage on the motor corner where the SeaFrost compressor mounts. I took heed of the warning, but mine broke anyway.  I had to drill out the broken bolt and re-tap the hole for a new boat.  Luckily I didn't have to remove the engine to do the work.
          Bill Stellin   Jaywalker   hull # 6 1996
           


          To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
          From: pkr@...
          Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 00:24:04 -0400
          Subject: [j4x-owners-group] POLL: Should we switch to Google Groups?

           
          Hi Tom

          Although I have not commented on the many items discussed on the
          yahoo site, I have appreciated getting the info and feel the Yahoo
          has worked OK. I am not familiar with Google. If pictures can be
          posted on the Google site please change my vote.

          I will comment here on items mentioned that I remember and note that
          I have had most of those problems. I have Canty J-42 #38 purchased
          used in 2003.

          Problems Lazarette hatch leaking. When I purchased the boat, there
          was no protection for the engine panel. Water leakage through the
          hatch had corroded the panel and had travelled 6 feet down the wires
          to the starter solenoid. I learned quickly how to jump the engine
          with a screwdriver. I ended up replacing the panel and wiring
          harness. The engine panel now has a protective cover. I have
          replaced seals, added block and tackle to tighten with jam cleat in
          sail locker to tighten the seal and provide a means of locking the
          hatch.

          Fuel Tank. had diesel in bilge when I returned to boat in Scotland
          in spring of 2005. Could not find leak. The tank let loose crossing
          from Shetland to Alesund. Norway. When we removed the tank we found
          sawdust and screw in the corner which must have sat in 1/2" of
          water. Norway. Welded lower corner in Alesund. Tank leaked
          following winter and replaced with custom stainless tank in
          Alesund. Unfortunately they I do not believe they added baffles
          because the fuel sloshing under the bunk is annoying.

          Radar mast- we have a 3" Edson mast which is removable. It seams
          plenty strong. Of shore in certain conditions it vibrates which can
          be very annoying. The vibration appears to come from a pumping
          mast. A little tension on a check stay and the vibration disappears.

          Ice Box cover We run two fiberglass battens athwart ship across the
          hinged lid. The inboard side slides into a cut in the fiddle. The
          outboard side has a small white cleats which the battens jam under.

          head sump drain. We seam to get a good bit of water down the mast.
          One year when the boat was left unattended for couple months the
          water filled in the head enough to overflow ruin the forward cabin
          deck. We now disconnect the sump hose at the drain fitting in the
          main cabin so that it will drain into the bilge when we leave the
          boat for any extended period. I believe there is also a filter there
          which can clog.

          Windless and anchor hatch. Replaced corroded electrical switch in
          2004. Offshore have used plastic bag over windless sealed with duct
          tape. I may have also used moretite around the hatch. I believe
          much of the water in the anchor well is forced up from underneath by
          the sea and drains out slower than it enters. We have stored fenders
          and empty water jugs forward.

          Cabin house winches. We have the same problem with the winch
          installation. Of the 4 positions, they chose to locate the winches
          on both sides so the gears can not be removed to service. I have
          cleaned and lubricated the best I could and hope it is sufficient.
          Removing the winches is not an easy job.

          We are flying to Finland May 17th and will cruise the Baltic,
          Denmark, Norway and Scotland for 3 months.

          Best Regards,

          Paul


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