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Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

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  • tony@shanomet.com
    Thanks. And does the shock cord stay attached to the strop deployed and functioning as a preventer?
    Message 1 of 23 , Sep 18, 2013
      Thanks. And does the shock cord stay attached to the strop deployed and  functioning as a preventer? 

      On Sep 17, 2013, at 8:45 PM, Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...> wrote:


      They reach from the boom bail to about 3 feet short of the gooseneck. The shock cords go from a cleat at the gooseneck to the strop end. 

      I'll take a picture next time I'm down at the boat.


      On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 5:06 PM, Anthony M Iacono <tony@...> wrote:

      How long are the strops? Or Strop if I decide to go with one.

      From: Thomas Keffer <tkeffer@...>
      Reply-To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
      Date: Tue, 17 Sep 2013 08:24:49 -0700
      To: <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com>
      Subject: Re: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42


      The strops are held snug against the boom by shock cords. No flopping. 


      On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 6:12 AM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:

      The pad just forward of the primaries is for a snatch block that can lead the jib sheets to the winch at the correct angle to avoid overrides on the winch.  Since I have jib sheet turning blocks I don;t use the snatch blocks often except for when I need another block for the preventer.  In all honesty, I think my method which eliminates strop is better, safer and more secure.  A snap shackle attached to the bail at the end of the boom is about as secure as one can get and it is very easy to attach and detach.  No flopping strop to try and capture and then attach a shackle to.

      Sent from my iPad

      On Sep 17, 2013, at 5:58 AM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:


      Thank you I would appreciate that. I also have a pad I just forward of my primaries. Not sure I understand what role that plays w preventer. T

      Sent from my iPhone

      On Sep 16, 2013, at 3:04 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:


      Yes, I have a robust pad eye on both sides of the boat just ahead of the primary winches which can be used with a snatch block as a jib sheet lead instead of the turning block which is mounted on the combing just behind the primary winch.
      This gives me some flexibility if I want to free up the turning block for something else.  If I go to the boat this week, I'll take some pictures of our setup and post them.

      Sent from my iPad

      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:58 PM, "tony@..." <tony@...> wrote:


      Thanks Bill, so you have 2 snatch blocks and attach them to the toe rail in a spot that makes a good lead for the preventer line?  Tony 

      Sent from my iPhone

      On Sep 16, 2013, at 2:25 PM, William Stellin <wstellin@...> wrote:


      My preventer is very simple.  One long line, long enough to go the full length of the boat and back, 80 or so feet.
      Each end of the line has a shackle.  On a starboard tack, the port end of the line is snapped to the bail at the end of the boom and the line on the starboard side of the boat is led through a snatch block and then to a winch.  The line is long enough so there is plenty of tail and the unused shackle does not interfere with the winch.

      When we gybe, we bring the boom to center, unshackle the port shackle and then attach the starboard shackle.  The port line is then led through a snatch block and to a winch so we can control the tension just like on the other side when we were on a different tack. 

       One  person can do the whole job and after one or two gybes to get the feel of it, the process goes very smoothly.
      The helms man helps by winching in the boom so the crew member can detach one shackle and attach the other without ever having to leave the center of the cockpit.  After the reattach, the crew can take their time leading the active line through a snatch block (for a proper lead to the winch so as to avoid overrides) and tension the preventer. 

       The inactive line can remain in the snatch block until it is necessary to reverse the process.  The line can be left in place for long periods when not in use and in fact can be used as a jack line with the shackle attached to a stern cleat and tensioned with a winch on the other side of the boat. 

         In order to make a winch available, I installed new turning blocks with breaks for the main and a cleat nearby so we can transfer the mainsheet to a cleat without disturbing the trim of the main and then use that freed up winch for something else....like the preventer.

      Bill  Jaywalker  #6

      Sent from my iPad

      On S ep 16, 2013, at 7:50 AM, bdwyer@... wrote:


      Thanks, Ed.

      We are closing on J42 #53 in Maine on 10/1.  The survey came back clean except for one issue the owner is graciously taking care of. I had a long conversation with the surveyor about the crazing as well as others and I am over it.

      I believe that we were never going to find the perfect boat. We looked at several models including Sabres and Tartens and eventually decided based on a couple factors that the J42 was the right boat for us. We then looked at several Js and "compromised" on the best one taking into account draft, mast material, equipment and overall condition.

      Now it is time to get her down to her new home on the Chesapeake and go sailing. I'm sure after a few months I won't even see the crazing anymore. Sort of like that spot on my living room ceiling...


      Currently boatless.

      --- In j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com, <j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I, too, am/was a J/42 wannabe.  I've now looked at five J-42s, four of which were for sale and one which wasn't.  Unfortunately, the only one that didn't have rampant gelcoat crazing was the one that's not for sale! LOL.  Some people say the problem is just cosmetic.  As a person who plans to sail mostly in NE, and particularly in Maine, I don't accept that it's cosmetic.  Freezing water shatters granite--I can only imagine what it will do to a gelcoat crack (over time).  I have heard from a broker whom I trust that J as well as many other manufactures had significant crazing problems in the late 90's and early 00's.


      From: gmail account <cdsail123@...>
      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 2:44 PM
      Subject: RE: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42

      I have crazing on many parts of the cockpit and cabin sides.  It is just cosmetic but it is obvious and many places.  No crazing on the hull though.    I looked at 5 J42 s in my search in 2010 and most had some to similar crazing. 
      Another J
      # 46
      From: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tributesails
      Sent: Monday, July 8, 2013 12:54 PM
      To: j4x-owners-group@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: [j4x-owners-group] where is crazing common on the J/42
      I am contemplating a trip to ME to see a boat and I was told by the broker that most of the crazing on the boat is on the cabin itself. Based on what I had heard and observed, most of it was on the deck and in for cockpit.

      Have any of you experienced it on the cabin or hull?

      I know it is just a cosmetic issue.


      J/42 wannabe owner

      Tom Keffer
      +1 541-386-8891 (h)
      +1 541-490-9507 (c)
      Skype: tkeffer

      Tom Keffer
      +1 541-386-8891 (h)
      +1 541-490-9507 (c)
      Skype: tkeffer

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