1543Re: [j4x-owners-group] head systems [1 Attachment]
- Aug 10, 2014
Still not clear to me exactly what failed.
In any case, in my boat, you can get to the back of the pump through the "medicine chest" locker. Remove the sliding mirrors, the remove the trim inside the kickyer on the right hand side.
There's enough space that you may be able to reattach whatever came undone. Probably not enough to replace the whole pump though...
Fat-fingered from my AndroidOn Aug 9, 2014 8:00 AM, "Ivan Getting getting@... [j4x-owners-group]" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:[Attachment(s) from Ivan Getting included below]
Welcome to the forward head discharge pump failure club. I've not had your specific problem, but had to replace my pump entirely. Here are my notes:
May 22, 2007
REPLACE FORWARD HOLDING TANK PUMPOUT PUMP. Original Guzzler Diaphragm pump catalog no. M-500-V had flapper valves and did not work for worth a damn. 400 strokes discharged practically nothing from the holding tank. A replacement pump, Guzzler Diaphragm pump catalog no. M-500-V ??, with duck-bill valves was supplied by Pearson Composites. Aaron from Seaview North boat yard in Bellingham did the work. He cut a large, rectangular hole around the pump in order to remove it. He then bent and mounted a Star Board cover plate with the pump mounted to it. The duck-bill valve pump works very well. Three strokes, initially dry, primed it. A few more strokes emptied the line from the nominally empty holding tank.
New discharge pump with custom mounting panel.
May 23, 2007
FORWARD HOLDING TANK TEST. Filled with fresh water. Inspection port on the top leaks when water splashed up to it. Must not overfill the tank. Exit fitting seems to be tight after last winter’s repair by Dave at Western Yacht Systems. Note: 350 strokes on the new manual pumpout pump completely empties the full holding tank.
The replacement pump, with duck-bill valves has worked well ever since. The manufacturer explained that flapper valve were totally inappropriate for a sewage application and that the vertical surface mounting of the pump defeated and gravitational assistance that the flapper valves would have had from proper mounting on a horizontal surface.
As far as I can tell there is no way to remove the pump without some serious surgery on the head liner, as in the photo above. Pearson mounted the pump before installing the head liner before installing the deck. You get the picture. Pearson's excuse for this nonsense was the the pump, which they installed with the wrong type of valves, was not expected to fail! Mine did not work the day the boat arrived. Sharp lads. As you probably know Pearson Composites no longer makes J/Boats.
If you are lucky there may be some simpler fix for you pump handle problem. Have you removed the black, flexible cover plate through which the handle is inserted to see if you can get sufficient access that way?
If your pump does not work well once you get the handle back on you may well be looking at replacing the pump, or at least the valves in it. GET DUCK-BILL VALVES if you don't all ready have them. The folks who make the pump were very helpful, but right now I cannot find their contact info, sorry.
Hull no. 76
On 8/9/2014 7:37 AM, Raymond Hall rhall228@... [j4x-owners-group] wrote:after re-reading my e-mail, I see some clarification is necessary. The fitting that came out is the piece that the pump handle attaches too when you slide through the rubber gasket. It obviously attaches with a double threaded fitting.
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 9, 2014, at 9:24 AM, "rhall228@... [j4x-owners-group]" <email@example.com> wrote:
hoping you can help. I am doing some maintainence on my heads.
1. does anyone know what make and model of the head discharge pump, in the forward head. The fitting inside the pump unscrewed and came out.
2. Is there some easier way to get at the pumps in that head other than stuffing myself under the sink?
New boat to me and trying to get all systems working correctly.
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