(US-or) A vegan spot that's not too nutty
- [The Oregonian]
In the film "Transamerica," a character proclaims himself to be a
"fourth-degree vegetarian." What's that? "I don't eat anything that
casts a shadow."
There are Jains in India who wear masks to keep from accidentally
ingesting microscopic organisms and who sweep sidewalks in front of
them lest they step on living insects.
Nutshell, a new-wave vegan restaurant in North Portland, is not so fanatical.
But like all vegans, it eschews animal products, including eggs,
cheese and honey. It also passes on the ersatz meat imitations -- no
mock turkey carved from tofu here. Nutshell spares us such hoary
staples as brown rice, grilled portobello mushrooms and
Some wag once said that vegans are the Hezbollah of vegetarians. But
if such a term connotes a joyless zealotry, Nutshell banishes that in
the name of cheerful experiment and a certain earnest exuberance. I am
a devoted carnivore, and some might say I should not assess a cuisine
in which I wouldn't ordinarily indulge, about which I might in fact be
somewhat skeptical. But the test of a vegan kitchen might lie not with
its devoted acolytes so much as with those who have no ideological
predisposition in its favor, certainly those who do not come to it as
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