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The Great LED Conversion--PHOTOS!

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  • Kevin Quosig
    Mind you, I m still not happy with the night shots...some are over-dramatic. Some of the daytime shots are under-dramatic. Darned LEDs really mess with the
    Message 1 of 1 , Oct 21, 2004
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      Mind you, I'm still not happy with the night shots...some are
      over-dramatic. Some of the daytime shots are under-dramatic. Darned LEDs
      really mess with the sensor on my camera. I'll do my best to clarify the
      shots below...



      These shots show both the PC800 and the Uni-Go, all decked out with LED
      arrays. the CloseUp shots are interesting since the camera can pick-out
      the arrays easier. Night shots have proven difficult for this amateur
      photographer as any point light source tends to screw-up the auto light
      control on the camera. My best efforts to kludge around it have been
      mediocre at best. But you get the idea.

      These show the Uni-Go coverted to LEDs, but the PC800 still on
      incandescents. What is interesting is that once the PC800 is coverted to
      LEDs, the dimmest areas the LEDs illuminate are brighter than the
      hottest spot on the standard bulbs. Also remember, these are
      higher-wattage than stock bulbs. If you still have the manual-spec
      bulbs, they are a notch noticeably dimmer.

      Something I did just for fun while I was at it. ;-) Those are the
      incandescent bulbs in the taillight bar, BTW.

      The end result of the PC800 conversion to LEDs during the day. I need
      some broad daylight shots, am working on that.

      You'll want your sunglasses for these photos. The camera keeps
      "bleeding" the lights together. The reality is the LED arrays are still
      quite circular and distinct, just really, REALLY bright. 120° viewing
      angle makes sure they do "fill" the lenses, they just have much more of
      a hot-spot than an incandescent bulb does. A more accurate idea of how
      bright is comparing both #3 photos (running and brake). That wall is
      about two lane widths away from the back of the bike, and the
      illumination is fairly accurate (not nearly as saturated, but more
      defined, but BRIGHT. FWIW, the stock lights don't put-out even half that
      much light. I'd say the hotter incandescents I was using, with the
      brakes on, would do what the LED running lights now do. ;-)

      The initial LED conversion of the Uni-Go during the day. This was
      dramatic as the daytime visibility of the Uni-Go *stank*. A friend
      following in a car said the brake and running lights are WAY more

      The "before" shots of the Uni-Go.

      BTW: Besides the visibility gained with the LEDs, I now have enough
      power left over that the headlight runs brighter, my fog lights no
      longer turn the voltage idiot light red at idle on long stop-n-go rides,
      and my grip heaters are warmer (and warm-up faster, and at idle).

      If anyone has any questions on the conversion, let me know. Still some
      little things to do, will apprise the group when I get around to those

      Total cost when I'm all done (including the yet-to-be-finished
      electrical work): approximately $1000 in LED arrays, wiring, connectors,
      gasket sealants, turn signal relay, etc.

      Not for the feint of heart. ;-)

      San Leandro, CA
      1996 Honda Pacific Coast 800 ("Red Dwarf")
      45,000+ miles || HRCA #HM729375
      2002 Uni-Go Trailer ("Starbug 1") || Trailer #499
      Thursday, October 21, 2004 || 8:57 PM PST
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