Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Started My Bike And It Died

Expand Messages
  • skeandco
    Went out to Shedzilla to do some rearranging and start the PC and let it run for several minutes. Hasn t been started since Christmas. Removed the tender,
    Message 1 of 9 , Jan 23 10:31 PM
      Went out to Shedzilla to do some rearranging and start the PC and let it run for several minutes. Hasn't been started since Christmas. Removed the tender, turned the key and nothing. Two year old battery. Attached the jumper to to the battery terminals, made sure the positive was insulated from the adjacent frame. The bike started after about 5 short tries. It ran for about 20 seconds then I remove the jumper. Five seconds later it died. Low beam light burnt out along with a 10 amp fuse. Now it won't start at all. Volt meter showed a good reading of 12.4 to 12.8. It did jump to 17.6 for a couple of seconds. P 30 amp fuse under the seat is good along with the ones behind the left side fairing. Recharging battery on a regular charger. I will try again the weekend.

      Any direction I need to be pushed in? I have a feeling it might either be a bad battery or a bad rectifier. I am leaning toward a bad rectifier and possibly a now bad cell in the battery. I have an extra rectifier.

      Anything will help.

      Thanks
      WNC Steve
      Weaverville NC
    • Malcolm
      I think your on the right track.Malcolm. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
      Message 2 of 9 , Jan 24 4:44 AM
        I think your on the right track.
        Malcolm.



        Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
      • sr139fox
        Check the run switch. You might have bumped it. Also the low/hi beam light switch can cause a no start. Cycle the light switch and see if that helps. Dave P.
        Message 3 of 9 , Jan 24 2:35 PM
          Check the run switch. You might have bumped it.  Also the low/hi beam light switch can cause a no start.  Cycle the light switch and see if that helps.
          Dave P.
        • Jay Jacobson
          Hey Steve!  I didn t see you say you have load tested your battery.  Load testers are available from China-Frieght for around $20. Better to test it before
          Message 4 of 9 , Jan 25 9:01 AM
            Hey Steve!  I didn't see you say you have load tested your battery.  Load testers are available from China-Frieght for around $20.

            Better to test it before you shit-can it, especially if you you have a good Japanese battery.


            On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 22:31, skeandco@... [ipcrc]
            <ipcrc@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
             

            Went out to Shedzilla to do some rearranging and start the PC and let it run for several minutes. Hasn't been started since Christmas. Removed the tender, turned the key and nothing. Two year old battery. Attached the jumper to to the battery terminals, made sure the positive was insulated from the adjacent frame. The bike started after about 5 short tries. It ran for about 20 seconds then I remove the jumper. Five seconds later it died. Low beam light burnt out along with a 10 amp fuse. Now it won't start at all. Volt meter showed a good reading of 12.4 to 12.8. It did jump to 17.6 for a couple of seconds. P 30 amp fuse under the seat is good along with the ones behind the left side fairing. Recharging battery on a regular charger. I will try again the weekend.

            Any direction I need to be pushed in? I have a feeling it might either be a bad battery or a bad rectifier. I am leaning toward a bad rectifier and possibly a now bad cell in the battery. I have an extra rectifier.

            Anything will help.

            Thanks
            WNC Steve
            Weaverville NC

          • skyeenter
            Check your ground bolt, probably corroded. Skye
            Message 5 of 9 , Feb 10, 2017
              Check your ground bolt, probably corroded.  Skye
            • skeandco
              Hi PC Riders, Vera is Purring again. It required removing almost all the plastic to trace the wires and the components that are connected to the ignition
              Message 6 of 9 , May 29, 2017
                Hi PC Riders,

                Vera is "Purring" again.  It required removing almost all the plastic to trace the wires and the components that are connected to the ignition circuit.  Wires are good and the grounds are good.  I basically started removing components to see if the 10 amp ignition fuse would blow.  It was in the ignition switch.  Really in the bottom electrical section of the ignition switch.  Honda no longer sells that part so I now have two keys for Vera.  They don't sell the gas door lock matched to the ignition key.  The new key is longer because it has an extra tumbler.  

                While Vera was naked I decided to do some over due modifications and service.  VT1100 final drive, heated grips, the new trunk light from Francois, oil, coolant and new windscreen from Clearview.  

                I went with the Light Gray tint, 23" and vent.  Installed beautifully without any problems.  Clearview sent an email to me as to what stage of manufacture it was in.  They even sent me the tracking number so I could see where it was.  Packed so well I believe Ace Ventura could have delivered it and not damaged the contents.   Their website says it takes 14 to 16 business days to produce and get out the door.  Mine took a little more than a month to get out the door, but it is well worth the extra wait.  

                More modification to come but we'll talk about those later.  

                WNC Steve
                Weaverville NC

                 
              • Tim Davies
                Happy to hear you are up and running again and with extra farkles. Tim Davies Seneca Falls, NY Yankee Smuggler II 1998 (235,000+ mi) IPCRC #4 AMA #688662 The
                Message 7 of 9 , May 30, 2017
                  Happy to hear you are up and running again and with extra farkles.


                  Tim Davies
                  Seneca Falls, NY
                  Yankee Smuggler II 1998 (235,000+ mi)

                  IPCRC #4
                  AMA #688662

                   "The ride is the objective, the destination is the excuse!"

                  http://www.active.com/donate/2012PCPonyExpress/TPD


                  On May 29, 2017, at 11:09 PM, skeandco@... [ipcrc] <ipcrc@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                   

                  Hi PC Riders,


                  Vera is "Purring" again.  It required removing almost all the plastic to trace the wires and the components that are connected to the ignition circuit.  Wires are good and the grounds are good.  I basically started removing components to see if the 10 amp ignition fuse would blow.  It was in the ignition switch.  Really in the bottom electrical section of the ignition switch.  Honda no longer sells that part so I now have two keys for Vera.  They don't sell the gas door lock matched to the ignition key.  The new key is longer because it has an extra tumbler.  

                  While Vera was naked I decided to do some over due modifications and service.  VT1100 final drive, heated grips, the new trunk light from Francois, oil, coolant and new windscreen from Clearview.  

                  I went with the Light Gray tint, 23" and vent.  Installed beautifully without any problems.  Clearview sent an email to me as to what stage of manufacture it was in.  They even sent me the tracking number so I could see where it was.  Packed so well I believe Ace Ventura could have delivered it and not damaged the contents.   Their website says it takes 14 to 16 business days to produce and get out the door.  Mine took a little more than a month to get out the door, but it is well worth the extra wait.  

                  More modification to come but we'll talk about those later.  

                  WNC Steve
                  Weaverville NC

                   

                • sr139fox
                  Can the key tumbles be swapped out? This wold retain the same key. Dave P.
                  Message 8 of 9 , May 30, 2017
                    Can the key tumbles be swapped out?  This wold retain the same key.  Dave P.
                  • skeandco
                    You can remove the electrical section off the bottom. It requires a Security Torx T10 to remove the screws. I took apart the old one and the two ball bearings
                    Message 9 of 9 , May 30, 2017
                      You can remove the electrical section off the bottom.  It requires a Security Torx T10 to remove the screws. 

                      I took apart the old one and the two ball bearings fell out and that section spun out of place.  I don't know which of the two position it should be in and the bearings wouldn't stay in place allowing me to put it back together.  I didn't want to dismantle the new switch if it was going to do that. 

                      WNC Steve


                    Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.