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Re: 185 clutch problem

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  • intloboy184
    This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop. Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this
    Message 1 of 14 , Aug 26, 2013
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      This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
      Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.


      --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@...> wrote:
      >
      > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
      > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
      > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
      > Good Luck!
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ________________________________
      > From: Stephen <spatterson@...>
      > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
      > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
      > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
      >
      >
      >
      > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
      >
      > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
      >
      > Thanks
      >
      > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
      > >
      > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
      > > Check your manual for the clearance.
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ________________________________
      > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
      > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
      > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
      > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
      > > 
      > >
      > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > ------------------------------------
      > >
      > > Yahoo! Groups Links
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      > >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------------
      >
      > Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
      >
    • bud
      I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release. I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake
      Message 2 of 14 , Aug 27, 2013
      • 0 Attachment
        I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
        I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
        Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
        My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
        I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
        This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps



        --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@...> wrote:
        >
        > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
        > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
        >
        >
        > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
        > >
        > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
        > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
        > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
        > > Good Luck!
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ________________________________
        > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
        > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
        > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
        > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
        > >
        > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
        > >
        > > Thanks
        > >
        > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
        > > >
        > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
        > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > ________________________________
        > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
        > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
        > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
        > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
        > > > 
        > > >
        > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > > ------------------------------------
        > > >
        > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >
        > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        > > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ------------------------------------
        > >
        > > Yahoo! Groups Links
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
        > >
        >
      • Stephen
        Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to
        Message 3 of 14 , Aug 28, 2013
        • 0 Attachment
          Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.

          And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.

          Thanks for everyone's help


          --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@...> wrote:
          >
          >
          > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
          > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
          > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
          > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
          > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
          > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
          > >
          > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
          > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
          > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
          > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
          > > > Good Luck!
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > ________________________________
          > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
          > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
          > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
          > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
          > > >
          > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
          > > >
          > > > Thanks
          > > >
          > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
          > > > >
          > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
          > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > ________________________________
          > > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
          > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
          > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
          > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
          > > > > 
          > > > >
          > > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > > ------------------------------------
          > > > >
          > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >
          > > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          > > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > > ------------------------------------
          > > >
          > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >
          > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
          > > >
          > >
          >
        • Tom Linkous
          Sorry to change the subject. I have a 1976 184 and the engine pulses and will only run if the choke is on full. Any hints Sent from my iPad
          Message 4 of 14 , Aug 28, 2013
          • 0 Attachment
            Sorry to change the subject. I have a 1976 184 and the engine pulses and will only run if the choke is on full.  Any hints

            Sent from my iPad

            On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:01 AM, "Stephen" <spatterson@...> wrote:

             

            Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.

            And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.

            Thanks for everyone's help

            --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@...> wrote:
            >
            >
            > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
            > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
            > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
            > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
            > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
            > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
            >
            >
            >
            > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
            > >
            > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
            > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
            > >
            > >
            > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
            > > >
            > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
            > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
            > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
            > > > Good Luck!
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > ________________________________
            > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
            > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
            > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
            > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
            > > >
            > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
            > > >
            > > > Thanks
            > > >
            > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
            > > > >
            > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
            > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > ________________________________
            > > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
            > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
            > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
            > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
            > > > > 
            > > > >
            > > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > > ------------------------------------
            > > > >
            > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >
            > > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            > > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > > ------------------------------------
            > > >
            > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >
            > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            > > >
            > >
            >

          • Jpw19798
            Clogged air filter, weights sticking in the distributor, governor is stuck or out of adjustment, low idle jet is clogged or out of adjustment on the
            Message 5 of 14 , Aug 28, 2013
            • 0 Attachment
              Clogged air filter, weights sticking in the distributor, governor is stuck or out of adjustment, low idle jet is clogged or out of adjustment on the carburetor, thats where Id start anyway.




              Sent from my Samsung Epic™ 4G Touch

              Tom Linkous <tlinkedds@...> wrote:
               

              Sorry to change the subject. I have a 1976 184 and the engine pulses and will only run if the choke is on full.  Any hints

              Sent from my iPad

              On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:01 AM, "Stephen" <spatterson@...> wrote:

               

              Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.

              And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.

              Thanks for everyone's help

              --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@...> wrote:
              >
              >
              > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
              > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
              > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
              > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
              > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
              > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
              >
              >
              >
              > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
              > >
              > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
              > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
              > >
              > >
              > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
              > > >
              > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
              > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
              > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
              > > > Good Luck!
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > ________________________________
              > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
              > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
              > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
              > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
              > > >
              > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
              > > >
              > > > Thanks
              > > >
              > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
              > > > >
              > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
              > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > > ________________________________
              > > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
              > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
              > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
              > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
              > > > > 
              > > > >
              > > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > > ------------------------------------
              > > > >
              > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >
              > > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              > > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > > ------------------------------------
              > > >
              > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >
              > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
              > > >
              > >
              >

            • northcreek2624
              I m thinking that it s sucking air somewhere, check these gaskets with a little ether spray: carb to manifold, manifold to block, if you spray these areas
              Message 6 of 14 , Aug 28, 2013
              • 0 Attachment
                I'm thinking that it's sucking air somewhere, check these gaskets with a little ether spray: carb to manifold, manifold to block, if you spray these areas while running and the rpms go up, you have found the leak...Mike.

                --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Tom Linkous <tlinkedds@...> wrote:
                >
                > Sorry to change the subject. I have a 1976 184 and the engine pulses and will only run if the choke is on full. Any hints
                >
                > Sent from my iPad
                >
                > On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:01 AM, "Stephen" <spatterson@...> wrote:
                >
                > > Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.
                > >
                > > And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.
                > >
                > > Thanks for everyone's help
                > >
                > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@> wrote:
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
                > > > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
                > > > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
                > > > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
                > > > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
                > > > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
                > > >
                > > >
                > > >
                > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
                > > > >
                > > > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
                > > > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
                > > > >
                > > > >
                > > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
                > > > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
                > > > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
                > > > > > Good Luck!
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > > ________________________________
                > > > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                > > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                > > > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
                > > > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it. Hope to do that tomorrow. Which why should I adjust the foot pedal? Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow.
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Thanks
                > > > > >
                > > > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly, it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
                > > > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > ________________________________
                > > > > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                > > > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                > > > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
                > > > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > good evening. I have a question. When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally. And when shifting gears, they grind. Do you think its time to replace the clutch? Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't stop pulling. Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do. Thanks for your help
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > ------------------------------------
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > >
                > > > > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                > > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > > ------------------------------------
                > > > > >
                > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > >
                > > > > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                > > > > >
                > > > >
                > > >
                > >
                > >
                >
              • Jeffrey G Rymer
                In addition to a vacuum leak, check your fuel flow . Disconnect the fuel line at the carb after shutting of the fuel at the tank, once disconnected watch
                Message 7 of 14 , Aug 29, 2013
                • 0 Attachment
                  In addition to a 'vacuum' leak, check your 'fuel flow'.
                  Disconnect the fuel line at the carb after shutting of the fuel at the tank, once disconnected watch 'flow' as the tank shut-off is opened.
                  Good supply from tank to carb leaves a possible 'sticking float' or 'float valve'.
                  Of coarse the 'air cleaner' has already been checked?



                  From: northcreek2624 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
                  To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                  Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2013 1:45 AM
                  Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] Re: engine pulses

                  I'm thinking that it's sucking air somewhere, check these gaskets with a little ether spray: carb to manifold, manifold to block, if you spray these areas while running and the rpms go up, you have found the leak...Mike.

                  --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Tom Linkous <tlinkedds@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > Sorry to change the subject. I have a 1976 184 and the engine pulses and will only run if the choke is on full.  Any hints
                  >
                  > Sent from my iPad
                  >
                  > On Aug 28, 2013, at 11:01 AM, "Stephen" <spatterson@...> wrote:
                  >
                  > > Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.
                  > >
                  > > And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.
                  > >
                  > > Thanks for everyone's help
                  > >
                  > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@> wrote:
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
                  > > > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
                  > > > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
                  > > > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
                  > > > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
                  > > > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > >
                  > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
                  > > > >
                  > > > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
                  > > > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
                  > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
                  > > > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
                  > > > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
                  > > > > > Good Luck!
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > ________________________________
                  > > > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                  > > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                  > > > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
                  > > > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > Thanks
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
                  > > > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > ________________________________
                  > > > > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                  > > > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                  > > > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
                  > > > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                  > > > > > > 
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > ------------------------------------
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > > >    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  > > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > ------------------------------------
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >
                  > > > > >    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                  > > > > >
                  > > > >
                  > > >
                  > >
                  > >
                  >




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                • intloboy184
                  I used parts from these guys on my 184. http://www.hamiltonbobs.com/185-Cub-Parts_c27.htm They have a nice package price for the clutch assembly.
                  Message 8 of 14 , Aug 29, 2013
                  • 0 Attachment
                    I used parts from these guys on my 184.
                    http://www.hamiltonbobs.com/185-Cub-Parts_c27.htm

                    They have a nice package price for the clutch assembly.
                    http://www.hamiltonbobs.com/Clutch-Plate-and-T-O-Bearing-w-Ret-and-Pressure-Plate-All-New-1103310.htm


                    --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "Stephen" <spatterson@...> wrote:
                    >
                    > Well I torn down the tractor and I believe I found the problem. The throw out bearring is bad, and was not spinning freely, ,which has caused the levers to wear a groove, so when I push on the clutch pedal, the throughout bearing hits the levers in the depression, thereby not releasing the clutch. So unfortunately I think I am forced to replace the clutch and the throw out bearing. Does this sound right to everyone? And does anyone have a good source for these parts, my local IH dealer must have some gold imbedded in the parts.
                    >
                    > And finally I have one question about a part number. While taking this apart, I noticed I am missing a bolt and a spacer that holds the frame to the transmission case. This is on the underside of the tractor just below the clutch. The bolt is a 3/4" bolt about 3" long, ,the sleeve/spacer is about 1" long. I have searched my parts catalog and can not find these parts numbers. My IH dealer doesn't know either. I can take out the other bolt and spacer to find a match, but taking out the spacer could be a challenge.
                    >
                    > Thanks for everyone's help
                    >
                    >
                    > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, "bud" <bud421sd@> wrote:
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > I fought the same problem for quite awhile on my 154, the clutch would not release.
                    > > I purchased every new part I could get my hands on, modded the clutch brake to hold tighter on the flywheel, to no avail
                    > > Check with a feeler gauge for clearance between the pressure plate and the disc when pedal is fully depressed.
                    > > My fix was to put .060 shims (they were actually SAE washers)between the pressure plate and flywheel, no problems for three years now.
                    > > I believe the clutch discs sold now are a bit thicker than the originals and the pressure plate does not have enough travel to release the disc.
                    > > This may not be a textbook repair but it worked for me, hope it helps
                    > >
                    > >
                    > >
                    > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, intloboy184 <no_reply@> wrote:
                    > > >
                    > > > This tractor is designed to always be shifted while at a complete stop.
                    > > > Being that the clutch brake was disabled, I think you will have to troubleshoot this one. The clutch and the clutch brake are meant to work together to prevent gear grinding.
                    > > >
                    > > >
                    > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Before going any farther,(1) I would first check the measurement between the 'release bearing' and the clutch 'release levers' the measurement should be 3/32".(2) Once this is accomplished, check the clutch 'pedal free travel', which should be 1" before the pedal begins to move the 'release bearing'.
                    > > > > After this,(3) the 'clutch break' can be adjusted to .010" between the 'break arm' and the 'brake lining'.
                    > > > > If the 'clutch break' was omitted and the brake functioned OK for two years, I would guess that simple adjustment of the first two instances should do the trick.
                    > > > > Good Luck!
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > ________________________________
                    > > > > From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                    > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > > Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2013 8:10 PM
                    > > > > Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > I have a 185, and when I installed the clutch several years ago, I did not install the clutch brake, because it caused the tractor to stop every time I changed gears. 
                    > > > >
                    > > > > My wife had other things for me to do today, so I couldn't work on it.  Hope to do that tomorrow.  Which why should I adjust the foot pedal?  Should the treads of the 2 rods be pulled further apart, or should I tighten the buckle so they are closer together, currently they are about as far apart as the buckle will allow. 
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Thanks
                    > > > >
                    > > > > --- In ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com, Jeffrey G Rymer <j.rymer@> wrote:
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > As I recall, these tractors have a 'clutch brake'. After the clutch 'throw-out bearing' is adjusted, and the peddle 'free play', is checked, then check the clearance of the 'clutch brake'. When adjusted correctly,  it will make contact with the clutch mechanism and slow-down the rotating mass for shifting.
                    > > > > > Check your manual for the clearance.
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > ________________________________
                    > > > > >  From: Stephen <spatterson@>
                    > > > > > To: ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com
                    > > > > > Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:39 PM
                    > > > > > Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] 185 clutch problem
                    > > > > > 
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > good evening.  I have a question.  When I depress the clutch, it doesn't stop the tires from spinning totally.  And when shifting gears, they grind.  Do you think its time to replace the clutch?  Normally I think of a bad clutch when the tractor won't  pull, mine is just the opposite, it won't  stop pulling.  Before I spend the money on a new clutch I was hoping the members of the group could offer a suggestion of something to do.  Thanks for your help
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > ------------------------------------
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >
                    > > > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    > > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > > ------------------------------------
                    > > > >
                    > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >
                    > > > >     http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
                    > > > >
                    > > >
                    > >
                    >
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