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Re: 184 quits after half an hour

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  • njdale2000
    Mike, a couple of out there suggestions; - after you start the 184, take a 4 foot wire with alligator clips on it and directly wire from the coil + side to
    Message 1 of 19 , Sep 15 8:18 AM
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      Mike, a couple of 'out there' suggestions;

      - after you start the 184, take a 4 foot wire with alligator clips on it and directly wire from the coil + side to the battery + lug. Then go out and do your mowing. This will eliminate 'all' ignition wiring.

      - somewhere I picked up that you were NOT supposed to use solid copper core wires with the Pertronix ignition module. My son uses 'non-resistor' spark plugs with resistor carbon core wires. Supposedly the 'electric static' from the solid copper core ignition wires can cause 'interference' with the ignition module.

      - since the Zenith carburetor fuel bowl is internally vented and most of the carburetor is pretty well sealed up, take a 3 pound coffee can and 'operate' on it with tin snips to get it pretty well around and up and over the carburetor - then pack it with 'dry ice' and go out and mow. Even though the dry ice will evaporate it should extend the mowing period significantly beyond the 30 to 35 minutes. If it does not extend the mowing time, then you have pretty much eliminated fuel quality and carburetor heat problems.

      I know that these are kind of 'off the wall' but that is the best that my 'thinking cap' has to offer. Good Luck - NJDale
    • njdale2000
      Mike, a couple more ideas; - Check to make sure that the distributor is actually advancing when engine speed increases. It should be TDC at 500 RPM and 16
      Message 2 of 19 , Sep 15 12:25 PM
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        Mike, a couple more ideas;

        - Check to make sure that the distributor is actually advancing when engine speed increases. It should be TDC at 500 RPM and 16 degrees BTDC at full throttle. It sounds counter-intuitive, but if the distributor does not advance as engine speed increases (weights stuck) the engine will actually run hotter because the combustion process is not complete when the exhaust valve opens and the combustion process continues while the gases are in the exhaust passageways.

        - The Zenith carburetor has a drain plug on the bottom of the fuel bowl. Take a bucket and the correct tools with you when you are mowing. When the engine quits, drain about a gallon of fuel out through the carburetor drain plug and then replace the plug and try to restart the engine. The gallon of gas coming from the fuel tank should cool the carburetor enough to re-start the engine (if fuel vapor lock, etc. is the problem).

        - If the carburetor is getting too hot for the new type of blended gasoline that is being used, try adding a 1/8" to 3/16" 'thermal break' between the carburetor base and the intake manifold.

        - I think that 'Island Dragway' is still open and is close to you, maybe you could get a couple of gallons of 'race gas' to experiment with.

        Hope that one of these helps you, NJDale
      • Mark Everett
        The correct gasket for the carb to manifold is thick something like 1/4 . The one on my cub is original and looks rough but I added a thin gasket to each
        Message 3 of 19 , Sep 15 1:04 PM
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          The correct "gasket" for the carb to manifold is thick something like 1/4". The one on my cub is original and looks rough but I added a thin gasket to each side. I have seen a couple cases where the thick gasket was gone. Maybe you can scrounge something to make a spacer and add a gasket on top and bottom. Be carefull about tightening the carb bolts. Easy to bend the flange.
          Mark

          njdale2000 <dalesargent@...> wrote:

          >Mike, a couple more ideas;
          >
          >- Check to make sure that the distributor is actually advancing when engine speed increases. It should be TDC at 500 RPM and 16 degrees BTDC at full throttle. It sounds counter-intuitive, but if the distributor does not advance as engine speed increases (weights stuck) the engine will actually run hotter because the combustion process is not complete when the exhaust valve opens and the combustion process continues while the gases are in the exhaust passageways.
          >
          >- The Zenith carburetor has a drain plug on the bottom of the fuel bowl. Take a bucket and the correct tools with you when you are mowing. When the engine quits, drain about a gallon of fuel out through the carburetor drain plug and then replace the plug and try to restart the engine. The gallon of gas coming from the fuel tank should cool the carburetor enough to re-start the engine (if fuel vapor lock, etc. is the problem).
          >
          >- If the carburetor is getting too hot for the new type of blended gasoline that is being used, try adding a 1/8" to 3/16" 'thermal break' between the carburetor base and the intake manifold.
          >
          >- I think that 'Island Dragway' is still open and is close to you, maybe you could get a couple of gallons of 'race gas' to experiment with.
          >
          >Hope that one of these helps you, NJDale
          >
          >
        • kevin mahraun
          Had a chance to get back on this project.  replaced the lines on the loader and got the main frame for the loader onto the 184 and it seemed to line up well.
          Message 4 of 19 , Nov 1, 2011
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            Had a chance to get back on this project.  replaced the lines on the loader and got the main frame for the loader onto the 184 and it seemed to line up well.
            I started on the pump, my bracket looks slightly different from your 2nd pic but I found the two bolts in the top of the plate that were the correct distance with the bracket I had and in the right place.  mine had a spacer also that appears to go between the tractor and the pump.  I ended up removing the outer(mower) pulley and just leaving the rear one to slip the belt onto.  otherwise it seemed the pump pulley and mower would rub.  once installed though it looks like the pump still needs to come back another 1/2 inch.  I rub the bracket on the left and have a large space on the right side.

            decided to put the lower/rear frame supports on for the bucket but ran into another issue.  the lower frames seem to want to connect right were the mid lift arms are on both sides.  Do I really have to remove the mid lift to use the bucket?  I looked through peoples pics that I found here and online but wasn't able to get a clear picture of it.  while I don't need the mid lift during the winter, my plan was to leave the loader frame attached in the spring, unhook just the bucket, and put the mower back in.

            So if anyone has pictures, advice or suggestions, I would appreciate it.

            Thank you
             
            Kevin Mahraun
            kmahraun@...

            From: Dale Sargent <dalesargent@...>
            To: ihcubloboyseries yahoogroups <ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com>
            Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 9:44 AM
            Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] loader pic needed [3 Attachments]

             
            I hope that these help you. The #19 photo shows the double PTO pulley. NJDale


          • kevin mahraun
            I did end up removing the mid mount for the mower to get the rear braces on.  also pulled the pulley and reversed it to get it back far enough and in line
            Message 5 of 19 , Nov 4, 2011
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              I did end up removing the mid mount for the mower to get the rear braces on.  also pulled the pulley and reversed it to get it back far enough and in line with the pump.  still had a little rub on the left side of the pump bracket so notched that out about an inch and turns smoothly.  Assuming the pump still works should have it up and running here pretty soon.

              Would still love to hear from anyone with a loader if they are able to run it, or at least have the frame on, at the same time the mower lift is installed.

              Thanks

               
              Kevin Mahraun
              kmahraun@...

              From: kevin mahraun <kmahraun@...>
              To: "ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com" <ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2011 10:03 AM
              Subject: Re: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] loader pic needed

               
              Had a chance to get back on this project.  replaced the lines on the loader and got the main frame for the loader onto the 184 and it seemed to line up well.
              I started on the pump, my bracket looks slightly different from your 2nd pic but I found the two bolts in the top of the plate that were the correct distance with the bracket I had and in the right place.  mine had a spacer also that appears to go between the tractor and the pump.  I ended up removing the outer(mower) pulley and just leaving the rear one to slip the belt onto.  otherwise it seemed the pump pulley and mower would rub.  once installed though it looks like the pump still needs to come back another 1/2 inch.  I rub the bracket on the left and have a large space on the right side.

              decided to put the lower/rear frame supports on for the bucket but ran into another issue.  the lower frames seem to want to connect right were the mid lift arms are on both sides.  Do I really have to remove the mid lift to use the bucket?  I looked through peoples pics that I found here and online but wasn't able to get a clear picture of it.  while I don't need the mid lift during the winter, my plan was to leave the loader frame attached in the spring, unhook just the bucket, and put the mower back in.

              So if anyone has pictures, advice or suggestions, I would appreciate it.

              Thank you
               
              Kevin Mahraun
              kmahraun@...

              From: Dale Sargent <dalesargent@...>
              To: ihcubloboyseries yahoogroups <ihcubloboyseries@yahoogroups.com>
              Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 9:44 AM
              Subject: [IH CUB LoBoy Numbered Series] loader pic needed [3 Attachments]

               
              I hope that these help you. The #19 photo shows the double PTO pulley. NJDale




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