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Re: [hreg] Building Science Corp.

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  • William & Cynthia Stange
    Hello Nan, The radiant barrier is stapled to the under-side of ALL of the roof rafters in my attic and my roof has a very low angle 4/12 pitch. The heavy duty
    Message 1 of 5 , Apr 8, 2006
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      Hello Nan, The radiant barrier is stapled to the under-side of ALL of the roof rafters in my attic and my roof has a very low angle 4/12 pitch. The heavy duty double-sided foil with nylon webbing between it (makes it stronger to staple) came in a 48" wide by 125' long roll. Starting from one side of the attic, stapling a starting point, then stretching tight the foil and staple to each rafter as you move along. Crawling in an attic is bad enough, laying on your back amongst the insulation, cutting around blocking vents etc. was quite the contortionist way of doing things. As far as sealing the attic those were all of the new designs when building a new home. Existing houses like mine could in no way be sealed up there are too many holes/leaks and vents already there. Summer in Houston is responsible for the direct radiation heat build up, i am hoping to reflectively reduce that amount with this barrier. My furnace is in the attic also, I hope to check for leaks in the ductwork, improve insulation depth and last but not least make some needed connections between roof and walls for wind safety (Hurricane?). The weather this weekend is absolutely wonderful compared to last week. Bill

      Nan Hildreth <nanhildreth@...> wrote:
      Why did the radiant barrier take so long?

      In my houses, the gas furnace is in the attic, so I don't want to
      seal the attic.

      At 08:30 AM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
      >Hello all,
      >             After research and spending WAY too much time in the attic
      >last weekend installing my radiant barrier I found this web site. As
      >it applies to new construction in a "Hot-Humid Climate" I have found
      >it does make sense. Although my 35-year-old home is an energy hog I am
      >still puzzled about what the best solution may be. Talked to a green
      >Architect who did NOT suggest "power-ventilating" attic space. But
      >here's where my catch is. New technology suggests sealing attic space
      >w/no venting, keeping AC ductwork leak-proof OR inside the conditioned
      >space! Ceiling is also sealed. All of this has to do with air
      >pressure, vented attic spaces it seems have "negative pressure" while
      >sealed has "positive". Air dynamics is a tricky one at the very least.
      >So, I am back to reading and figuring the best way to handle my Homes
      >heat build-up. These sites have alot of info. When
      >comparing "Benchmark" home to "prototype" and then to "Advanced
      >Technology" home is quite amazing.
      >http://www.buildingscience.com/designsthatwork/hothumid/DTW_HotHumid.pd
      >f
      >My best to all- Bill Stange
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >Yahoo! Groups Links
      >
      >
      >
      >


      Nan Hildreth, Houston
      713-842-6643   NanHildreth@...
      713-443-3104 cell
      3939 Luca St.
      Houston, Tx 77021




    • Nan Hildreth
      If the radiant barrier was stapled top to bottom, instead of side to side, I would think it would be eaiser to install. Nan ... Nan Hildreth, Houston
      Message 2 of 5 , Apr 8, 2006
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        If the radiant barrier was stapled top to bottom, instead of side to side, I would think it would be eaiser to install.

        Nan

        At 12:47 PM 4/8/2006, you wrote:
        Hello Nan, The radiant barrier is stapled to the under-side of ALL of the roof rafters in my attic and my roof has a very low angle 4/12 pitch. The heavy duty double-sided foil with nylon webbing between it (makes it stronger to staple) came in a 48" wide by 125' long roll. Starting from one side of the attic, stapling a starting point, then stretching tight the foil and staple to each rafter as you move along. Crawling in an attic is bad enough, laying on your back amongst the insulation, cutting around blocking vents etc. was quite the contortionist way of doing things. As far as sealing the attic those were all of the new designs when building a new home. Existing houses like mine could in no way be sealed up there are too many holes/leaks and vents already there. Summer in Houston is responsible for the direct radiation heat build up, i am hoping to reflectively reduce that amount with this barrier. My furnace is in the attic also, I hope to check for leaks in the ductwork, improve insulation depth and last but not least make some needed connections between roof and walls for wind safety (Hurricane?). The weather this weekend is absolutely wonderful compared to last week. Bill

        Nan Hildreth <nanhildreth@...>
        wrote:
        Why did the radiant barrier take so long?
        In my houses, the gas furnace is in the attic, so I don't want to
        seal the attic.
        At 08:30 AM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
        >Hello all,
        >             After research and spending WAY too much time in the attic
        >last weekend installing my radiant barrier I found this web site. As
        >it applies to new construction in a "Hot-Humid Climate" I have found
        >it does make sense. Although my 35-year-old home is an energy hog I am
        >still puzzled about what the best solution may be. Talked to a green
        >Architect who did NOT suggest "power-ventilating" attic space. But
        >here's where my catch is. New technology suggests sealing attic space
        >w/no venting, keeping AC ductwork leak-proof OR inside the conditioned
        >space! Ceiling is also sealed. All of this has to do with air
        >pressure, vented attic spaces it seems have "negative pressure" while
        >sealed has "positive". Air dynamics is a tricky one at the very least.
        >So, I am back to reading and figuring the best way to handle my Homes
        >heat build-up. These sites have alot of info. When
        >comparing "Benchmark" home to "prototype" and then to "Advanced
        >Technology" home is quite amazing.
        > http://www.buildingscience.com/designsthatwork/hothumid/DTW_HotHumid.pd
        >f
        >My best to all- Bill Stange
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >Yahoo! Groups Links
        >
        >
        >
        >

        Nan Hildreth, Houston
        713-842-6643   NanHildreth@...
        713-443-3104 cell
        3939 Luca St.
        Houston, Tx 77021






        YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS




        Nan Hildreth, Houston
        713-842-6643   NanHildreth@...
        713-443-3104 cell
        3939 Luca St.
        Houston, Tx 77021


      • William & Cynthia Stange
        Yes, that is another way to do it, being that the roll is 48 wide and my rafter spaces (center to center) are not all the same there will be some waste. Some
        Message 3 of 5 , Apr 8, 2006
        • 0 Attachment
          Yes, that is another way to do it, being that the roll is 48" wide and my rafter spaces (center to center) are not all the same there will be some waste. Some of these runs are better than 55' long, with just two runs one side of the roof can be done (alot of stapling) last weekends temps in the attic averaged about 119 degrees. Twenty-five minutes was about the average work time before you need fresh air, this weekend is great!
          http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/pubs/energynotes/images/priority_pie.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/pubs/energynotes/en-15.htm&h=285&w=348&sz=7&tbnid=Yf2IEzMB_JIlfM:&tbnh=95&tbnw=116&hl=en&start=18&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dradiant%2Bbarriers%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DX
           
          If the radiant barrier was stapled top to bottom, instead of side to side, I would think it would be eaiser to install.

          Nan

          At 12:47 PM 4/8/2006, you wrote:
          Hello Nan, The radiant barrier is stapled to the under-side of ALL of the roof rafters in my attic and my roof has a very low angle 4/12 pitch. The heavy duty double-sided foil with nylon webbing between it (makes it stronger to staple) came in a 48" wide by 125' long roll. Starting from one side of the attic, stapling a starting point, then stretching tight the foil and staple to each rafter as you move along. Crawling in an attic is bad enough, laying on your back amongst the insulation, cutting around blocking vents etc. was quite the contortionist way of doing things. As far as sealing the attic those were all of the new designs when building a new home. Existing houses like mine could in no way be sealed up there are too many holes/leaks and vents already there. Summer in Houston is responsible for the direct radiation heat build up, i am hoping to reflectively reduce that amount with this barrier. My furnace is in the attic also, I hope to check for leaks in the ductwork, improve insulation depth and last but not least make some needed connections between roof and walls for wind safety (Hurricane?). The weather this weekend is absolutely wonderful compared to last week. Bill

          Nan Hildreth <nanhildreth@...>
          wrote:
          Why did the radiant barrier take so long?
          In my houses, the gas furnace is in the attic, so I don't want to
          seal the attic.
          At 08:30 AM 4/7/2006, you wrote:
          >Hello all,
          >             After research and spending WAY too much time in the attic
          >last weekend installing my radiant barrier I found this web site. As
          >it applies to new construction in a "Hot-Humid Climate" I have found
          >it does make sense. Although my 35-year-old home is an energy hog I am
          >still puzzled about what the best solution may be. Talked to a green
          >Architect who did NOT suggest "power-ventilating" attic space. But
          >here's where my catch is. New technology suggests sealing attic space
          >w/no venting, keeping AC ductwork leak-proof OR inside the conditioned
          >space! Ceiling is also sealed. All of this has to do with air
          >pressure, vented attic spaces it seems have "negative pressure" while
          >sealed has "positive". Air dynamics is a tricky one at the very least.
          >So, I am back to reading and figuring the best way to handle my Homes
          >heat build-up. These sites have alot of info. When
          >comparing "Benchmark" home to "prototype" and then to "Advanced
          >Technology" home is quite amazing.
          > http://www.buildingscience.com/designsthatwork/hothumid/DTW_HotHumid.pd
          >f
          >My best to all- Bill Stange
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >Yahoo! Groups Links
          >
          >
          >
          >

          Nan Hildreth, Houston
          713-842-6643   NanHildreth@...
          713-443-3104 cell
          3939 Luca St.
          Houston, Tx 77021






          YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS




          Nan Hildreth, Houston
          713-842-6643   NanHildreth@...
          713-443-3104 cell
          3939 Luca St.
          Houston, Tx 77021



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