Loading ...
Sorry, an error occurred while loading the content.
 

Re: Radiant Heat Shield

Expand Messages
  • mark r. johnson <mrj53@mindspring.com>
    Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these methods work. The one that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this foil-like material to the underside of
    Message 1 of 11 , Feb 6, 2003
      Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these methods work. The one
      that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this foil-like material to
      the underside of the roof decking, is to the best of my knowledge the
      most effective method for adding to an existing home. Of course if you
      are building new construction, or re-roofing and can consider
      replacing the decking, you probably would find it better to buy the
      kind of
      roof decking that has the foil underside.

      Evidently the shiny side must face an air space for it to work. The
      downside of laying the barrier horizontally on existing attic
      insulation, is that it works fine the first day, but it soon will get
      dusty and become less effective.

      Usually we assume asphalt shingles when we talk about radiant
      barriers. If you happen to have a different roof material, we ought to
      stop and reconsider. I have read that tile roofs have advantages which
      lessen the effectiveness of radiant barriers and attic ventilation.
      Probably metal roofs as well.

      It is my understanding that spray-on radiant barrier paint cannot be
      as reflective as foil stapled to roof rafters or on decking material,
      but its ease of use may be attractive for retro-fit jobs. Tom Tynan
      endorses spray-on radiant barrier paint on the underside of your roof
      decking:
      http://tomsangle.com/docs/Radiant.pdf
      So far as I can tell, Tom agrees that foil based roof decking is
      superior for new construction. I believe stapling foil type material
      to the rafters, will provide superior performance but it might be so
      much extra labor that costs outweigh the benefits.

      You might find the following article from the Florida Solar Energy
      Center (FSEC) interesting. All that I have seen from FSEC appears high
      quality practical research, in my opinion:
      http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/pf337/

      I must say that I am a total amateur and am merely passing along
      things I have been taught which sound right. Am thinking about putting
      up foil type radiant barrier in my house but have not done the project
      yet. Am somewhat thinking about retro-fitting "skin venting" to our
      exterior walls but first must find someone with professional
      credentials who will endorse such a project. If anyone finds fault
      with what I have said, it will be to everybody's benefit to correct
      me.

      Thanks and good luck -- Mark J.





      --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer" <rox1@a...> wrote:
      > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy costs of my home.
      I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the form of:
      > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or shingles) that reflect
      solar radiation.
      > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the roofing board -
      either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect infared radiation.
      > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the insulation that
      also reflect infared radiation.
      >
      > Does anyone have any experience with these applications? Do they
      work? How much does it cost to have them installed?
      >
      > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior of the roof and
      the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work. I don't see how
      the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
      >
      > Chris Boyer
      > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."
    • Peter
      Mark, I came across skin venting in 1992 when I took a home building class at HCC. The concept was intriguing because with very little effort natural air
      Message 2 of 11 , Feb 6, 2003
        Mark, I came across "skin venting" in 1992 when I took a home building class at HCC.
        The concept was intriguing because with very little effort natural air movement
        can be used to reduce temperature and moisture in confined spaces.
        You are correct, I would not use this technique in areas where climate can get
        very cold for long periods of time, but in houston or similar area the climate
        is supportive of this technique.
        As to retrofitting, if you have vertical sidings it may be possible you already have
        a continuous airspace behind your sidings which can be utilized by cutting
        vent openings into the bottom of the sidings. The next problem is where your siding
        meets the roof eves, this may not be so simple since existing construction may have
        2x4's blocking the continuous airflow to the attic. So in summary, for existing homes
        you may not be able to retrofit due to built-in blockages which will not allow a continuous
        opening into the attic.
        I am adding a reference for pictorial schematic, please note i am not endorsing
        the product at this site but the full chapter makes for good reading.
        http://www.rima.net/handbook/page8.htm#walls
        http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_EH244
        By the way I forgot to tell you that you can mate vent skin construction with
        attaching a radiant barrier in the wall ... just another way to keep the radient heat
        out of your house.
        If you are planning to have a contractor install "vent skinning" techniques be prepared
        for a lot of hand-holding and insisting on your way  " it needs to be done" with your contractor.
        The most common talk-back I received was "we have never done it this way" and
        "it can't possibly work" :(  .. so stick to your guns !!!!!!!

        By the way I have been very pleased as to what these additions did to the electricity
        consumption.
        peter


        mark r. johnson wrote:
        --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, Peter <peterk1@s...> wrote:
          
        ...vent skin contruction : This means that outside walls have vents 
        built into the bottom
             of the wall and a continous airspace behind the wall from
            
        bottom 
          
        outside wall vents to
             roof  overhang. The area where the outside wall meets the roof 
        overhang can be engineered
             so that wall venting exhausts into the attic and then venting
            
        exits 
          
        through the continuous
             hip/ridge vents. The concept utilizes the physical property of
            
        hot 
          
        air always rising ... you can really
             feel the draft of air coming into your attic from between the 
        walls. This concept prevents heat
             build up in the outside walls and helps with the air draft in
            
        the 
          
        attic .. again preventing heat
             build up.
            
        Peter, I have heard about "vent skin" construction (sometimes called
        "skin vent") via Brian Parffey's six-week "Builder's Academy"
        workshop, also from his one-time mentor Tom Tynan, and also from
        architect LaVerne Williams. 
        
        I am intrigued because 
        1) some of them endorse it so emphatically, and 
        2) there have only been a few places in printed literature that
        support this method.
        
        Parffey tells us this is a method usable largely because it doesn't
        get very cold in winter in our area, and somewhere between here and
        Dallas the winters get strong enough that vent skin construction is
        not advisable. So this is identified as a very regional construction
        method, which explains why it may be unknown outside of our hot-humid
        region.
        
        Tynan endorses this construction method, I believe he advocates it but
        does not hammer on it being a necessity as Parffey does. For what it's
        worth, I have seen in Williams' published articles a very early
        reference to skin venting in the 1970's, the earliest I am aware of.
        
        I would like to ask you, are you describing a method which must be
        used with original construction? If not, can you say a little bit
        about retro-fitting this ventilation to an existing building. Surely
        there must be some pros and cons. Any new references to printed
        literature about this method, or references to someone who can give me
        expert advice, would be most welcome.
        
        Best wishes -- Mark J.
        
        
         
        
        Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
        
        
          

      • WGAS Racing
        What about a flat roof? I have one that is constructed using a plywood over joists, then urethane foam, topped off with a white elastomeric coating. Can the
        Message 3 of 11 , Feb 6, 2003
          What about a "flat" roof? I have one that is
          constructed using a plywood over joists, then urethane
          foam, topped off with a white elastomeric coating.
          Can the addition of an foil-like material to the
          underside of the plywood improve anything for me.

          I'm told by my roofing company that the minimum roof
          thickness for my roof is about 4".

          Rob
          Seabrook, TX

          --- "mark r. johnson <mrj53@...>"
          <mrj53@...> wrote:
          > Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these
          > methods work. The one
          > that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this
          > foil-like material to
          > the underside of the roof decking, is to the best of
          > my knowledge the
          > most effective method for adding to an existing
          > home. Of course if you
          > are building new construction, or re-roofing and can
          > consider
          > replacing the decking, you probably would find it
          > better to buy the
          > kind of
          > roof decking that has the foil underside.
          >
          > Evidently the shiny side must face an air space for
          > it to work. The
          > downside of laying the barrier horizontally on
          > existing attic
          > insulation, is that it works fine the first day, but
          > it soon will get
          > dusty and become less effective.
          >
          > Usually we assume asphalt shingles when we talk
          > about radiant
          > barriers. If you happen to have a different roof
          > material, we ought to
          > stop and reconsider. I have read that tile roofs
          > have advantages which
          > lessen the effectiveness of radiant barriers and
          > attic ventilation.
          > Probably metal roofs as well.
          >
          > It is my understanding that spray-on radiant barrier
          > paint cannot be
          > as reflective as foil stapled to roof rafters or on
          > decking material,
          > but its ease of use may be attractive for retro-fit
          > jobs. Tom Tynan
          > endorses spray-on radiant barrier paint on the
          > underside of your roof
          > decking:
          > http://tomsangle.com/docs/Radiant.pdf
          > So far as I can tell, Tom agrees that foil based
          > roof decking is
          > superior for new construction. I believe stapling
          > foil type material
          > to the rafters, will provide superior performance
          > but it might be so
          > much extra labor that costs outweigh the benefits.
          >
          > You might find the following article from the
          > Florida Solar Energy
          > Center (FSEC) interesting. All that I have seen from
          > FSEC appears high
          > quality practical research, in my opinion:
          > http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/pf337/
          >
          > I must say that I am a total amateur and am merely
          > passing along
          > things I have been taught which sound right. Am
          > thinking about putting
          > up foil type radiant barrier in my house but have
          > not done the project
          > yet. Am somewhat thinking about retro-fitting "skin
          > venting" to our
          > exterior walls but first must find someone with
          > professional
          > credentials who will endorse such a project. If
          > anyone finds fault
          > with what I have said, it will be to everybody's
          > benefit to correct
          > me.
          >
          > Thanks and good luck -- Mark J.
          >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer"
          > <rox1@a...> wrote:
          > > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy
          > costs of my home.
          > I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the
          > form of:
          > > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or
          > shingles) that reflect
          > solar radiation.
          > > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the
          > roofing board -
          > either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect
          > infared radiation.
          > > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the
          > insulation that
          > also reflect infared radiation.
          > >
          > > Does anyone have any experience with these
          > applications? Do they
          > work? How much does it cost to have them installed?
          > >
          > > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior
          > of the roof and
          > the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work.
          > I don't see how
          > the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
          > >
          > > Chris Boyer
          > > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."
          >
          >


          =====
          George (Rob) Rowland, Jr.
          Plastics Engineer
          IVA Flight Crew Equipment
          HEI/Lockheed Martin
          x-31393
          281/527-3736 (pager)

          __________________________________________________
          Do you Yahoo!?
          Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now.
          http://mailplus.yahoo.com
        • Robert Johnston
          For what it s worth, I did this job myself a couple years ago. I did it really cheap: I just bought heavy duty aluminum foil at the grocery store (the thick
          Message 4 of 11 , Feb 6, 2003
            For what it's worth, I did this job myself a couple years ago. I did it
            really cheap: I just bought heavy duty aluminum foil at the grocery
            store (the thick gage for barbeque etc., not the thinner gage) and
            stapled it to the rafters in my attic. I think it feels noticeably
            cooler in the attic, but I can't tell you I noticed any difference on my
            air conditioning bill. But I also changed some equipment in my AC
            system at nearly the same time.

            Just don't be crazy like me and get the idea of saving money on AC in
            July! Even though I only worked in the mornings, I tended to work too
            long into the day, and nearly passed out from the heat even with lots of
            water. Do it now instead! And wear long sleeves to protect from the
            fiberglass insulation if you have it.

            Robert


            > -----Original Message-----
            > From: houtextml <dlagrone@...>
            [mailto:dlagrone@...]
            > Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 8:37 AM
            > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
            > Subject: [hreg] Re: Radiant Heat Shield
            >
            > Here are a couple of good info links for you;
            >
            > http://www.ornl.gov/roofs+walls/radiant/
            >
            > http://www.heatbarrier.com/
            >
            > http://www.u-b-kool.com/
            >
            > I may be tackling this project myself Roxanne. If you'd like to buy
            > in bulk, help with each other's install or just chat about the topic,
            > drop me an email.
            >
            > Cheers,
            >
            > Doug
            >
            > --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer" <rox1@a...> wrote:
            > > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy costs of my
            > home. I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the form of:
            > > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or shingles) that reflect
            > solar radiation.
            > > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the roofing board -
            > either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect infared radiation.
            > > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the insulation that
            > also reflect infared radiation.
            > >
            > > Does anyone have any experience with these applications? Do they
            > work? How much does it cost to have them installed?
            > >
            > > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior of the roof and
            > the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work. I don't see how
            > the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
            > >
            > > Chris Boyer
            > > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."
            >
            >
            >
            >
            > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
            http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
            >
            >
          • Mike Ewert
            The foil or paint under the rafters works because the emissivity is low; even though the foil itself gets hot, it doesn t radiate much heat. My AC guy said
            Message 5 of 11 , Feb 9, 2003
              The foil  or paint under the rafters works because the emissivity is low; even though the foil itself gets hot, it doesn't radiate much heat.  My AC guy said he used the paint in his metal building shop and really noticed a difference.
              -----Original Message-----
              From: mark r. johnson <mrj53@...> [mailto:mrj53@...]
              Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 1:39 PM
              To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: [hreg] Re: Radiant Heat Shield

              Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these methods work. The one
              that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this foil-like material to
              the underside of the roof decking, is to the best of my knowledge the
              most effective method for adding to an existing home. Of course if you
              are building new construction, or re-roofing and can consider
              replacing the decking, you probably would find it better to buy the
              kind of
              roof decking that has the foil underside.

              Evidently the shiny side must face an air space for it to work. The
              downside of laying the barrier horizontally on existing attic
              insulation, is that it works fine the first day, but it soon will get
              dusty and become less effective.

              Usually we assume asphalt shingles when we talk about radiant
              barriers. If you happen to have a different roof material, we ought to
              stop and reconsider. I have read that tile roofs have advantages which
              lessen the effectiveness of radiant barriers and attic ventilation.
              Probably metal roofs as well.

              It is my understanding that spray-on radiant barrier paint cannot be
              as reflective as foil stapled to roof rafters or on decking material,
              but its ease of use may be attractive for retro-fit jobs. Tom Tynan
              endorses spray-on radiant barrier paint on the underside of your roof
              decking:
              http://tomsangle.com/docs/Radiant.pdf
              So far as I can tell, Tom agrees that foil based roof decking is
              superior for new construction. I believe stapling foil type material
              to the rafters, will provide superior performance but it might be so
              much extra labor that costs outweigh the benefits.

              You might find the following article from the Florida Solar Energy
              Center (FSEC) interesting. All that I have seen from FSEC appears high
              quality practical research, in my opinion:
              http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/pf337/

              I must say that I am a total amateur and am merely passing along
              things I have been taught which sound right. Am thinking about putting
              up foil type radiant barrier in my house but have not done the project
              yet. Am somewhat thinking about retro-fitting "skin venting" to our
              exterior walls but first must find someone with professional
              credentials who will endorse such a project. If anyone finds fault
              with what I have said, it will be to everybody's benefit to correct
              me.

              Thanks and good luck -- Mark J.





              --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer" <rox1@a...> wrote:
              > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy costs of my home.
              I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the form of:
              > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or shingles) that reflect
              solar radiation.
              > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the roofing board -
              either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect infared radiation.
              > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the insulation that
              also reflect infared radiation.
              >
              > Does anyone have any experience with these applications?  Do they
              work?  How much does it cost to have them installed?
              >
              > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior of the roof and
              the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work.  I don't see how
              the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
              >
              > Chris Boyer
              > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."


              Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
            • Robert Bruce Warburton
              I found a web site from a Danish group similar to the HREG, but concentrating on windpower. The Danes make the greatest use of windpower as far as I have read.
              Message 6 of 11 , Feb 9, 2003
                I found a web site from a Danish group similar to the HREG, but concentrating on windpower. The Danes make the greatest use of windpower as far as I have read. Mike what have you heard about the Russian shuttle Buran? No one is mentioning the Buran which had just one launch.

                Mike Ewert wrote:

                 The foil  or paint under the rafters works because the emissivity is low; even though the foil itself gets hot, it doesn't radiate much heat.  My AC guy said he used the paint in his metal building shop and really noticed a difference.
                -----Original Message-----
                From: mark r. johnson <mrj53@...> [mailto:mrj53@...]
                Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 1:39 PM
                To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: [hreg] Re: Radiant Heat Shield
                 
                Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these methods work. The one
                that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this foil-like material to
                the underside of the roof decking, is to the best of my knowledge the
                most effective method for adding to an existing home. Of course if you
                are building new construction, or re-roofing and can consider
                replacing the decking, you probably would find it better to buy the
                kind of
                roof decking that has the foil underside.

                Evidently the shiny side must face an air space for it to work. The
                downside of laying the barrier horizontally on existing attic
                insulation, is that it works fine the first day, but it soon will get
                dusty and become less effective.

                Usually we assume asphalt shingles when we talk about radiant
                barriers. If you happen to have a different roof material, we ought to
                stop and reconsider. I have read that tile roofs have advantages which
                lessen the effectiveness of radiant barriers and attic ventilation.
                Probably metal roofs as well.

                It is my understanding that spray-on radiant barrier paint cannot be
                as reflective as foil stapled to roof rafters or on decking material,
                but its ease of use may be attractive for retro-fit jobs. Tom Tynan
                endorses spray-on radiant barrier paint on the underside of your roof
                decking:
                http://tomsangle.com/docs/Radiant.pdf
                So far as I can tell, Tom agrees that foil based roof decking is
                superior for new construction. I believe stapling foil type material
                to the rafters, will provide superior performance but it might be so
                much extra labor that costs outweigh the benefits.

                You might find the following article from the Florida Solar Energy
                Center (FSEC) interesting. All that I have seen from FSEC appears high
                quality practical research, in my opinion:
                http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/pf337/

                I must say that I am a total amateur and am merely passing along
                things I have been taught which sound right. Am thinking about putting
                up foil type radiant barrier in my house but have not done the project
                yet. Am somewhat thinking about retro-fitting "skin venting" to our
                exterior walls but first must find someone with professional
                credentials who will endorse such a project. If anyone finds fault
                with what I have said, it will be to everybody's benefit to correct
                me.

                Thanks and good luck -- Mark J.
                 
                 
                 
                 

                --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer" <rox1@a...> wrote:
                > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy costs of my home.
                I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the form of:
                > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or shingles) that reflect
                solar radiation.
                > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the roofing board -
                either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect infared radiation.
                > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the insulation that
                also reflect infared radiation.
                >
                > Does anyone have any experience with these applications?  Do they
                work?  How much does it cost to have them installed?
                >
                > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior of the roof and
                the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work.  I don't see how
                the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
                >
                > Chris Boyer
                > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."
                 

                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.

              • Mike Ewert
                http://liftoff.msfc.nasa.gov/rsa/buran.html ... From: Robert Bruce Warburton [mailto:warbur2@ev1.net] Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 5:16 PM To:
                Message 7 of 11 , Feb 9, 2003
                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: Robert Bruce Warburton [mailto:warbur2@...]
                  Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 5:16 PM
                  To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [hreg] Re: Radiant Heat Shield

                  I found a web site from a Danish group similar to the HREG, but concentrating on windpower. The Danes make the greatest use of windpower as far as I have read. Mike what have you heard about the Russian shuttle Buran? No one is mentioning the Buran which had just one launch.

                  Mike Ewert wrote:

                   The foil  or paint under the rafters works because the emissivity is low; even though the foil itself gets hot, it doesn't radiate much heat.  My AC guy said he used the paint in his metal building shop and really noticed a difference.
                  -----Original Message-----
                  From: mark r. johnson <mrj53@...> [mailto:mrj53@...]
                  Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 1:39 PM
                  To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: [hreg] Re: Radiant Heat Shield
                   
                  Chris, what I have clearly been hearing is these methods work. The one
                  that seems most unlikely to you, attaching this foil-like material to
                  the underside of the roof decking, is to the best of my knowledge the
                  most effective method for adding to an existing home. Of course if you
                  are building new construction, or re-roofing and can consider
                  replacing the decking, you probably would find it better to buy the
                  kind of
                  roof decking that has the foil underside.

                  Evidently the shiny side must face an air space for it to work. The
                  downside of laying the barrier horizontally on existing attic
                  insulation, is that it works fine the first day, but it soon will get
                  dusty and become less effective.

                  Usually we assume asphalt shingles when we talk about radiant
                  barriers. If you happen to have a different roof material, we ought to
                  stop and reconsider. I have read that tile roofs have advantages which
                  lessen the effectiveness of radiant barriers and attic ventilation.
                  Probably metal roofs as well.

                  It is my understanding that spray-on radiant barrier paint cannot be
                  as reflective as foil stapled to roof rafters or on decking material,
                  but its ease of use may be attractive for retro-fit jobs. Tom Tynan
                  endorses spray-on radiant barrier paint on the underside of your roof
                  decking:
                  http://tomsangle.com/docs/Radiant.pdf
                  So far as I can tell, Tom agrees that foil based roof decking is
                  superior for new construction. I believe stapling foil type material
                  to the rafters, will provide superior performance but it might be so
                  much extra labor that costs outweigh the benefits.

                  You might find the following article from the Florida Solar Energy
                  Center (FSEC) interesting. All that I have seen from FSEC appears high
                  quality practical research, in my opinion:
                  http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/pf337/

                  I must say that I am a total amateur and am merely passing along
                  things I have been taught which sound right. Am thinking about putting
                  up foil type radiant barrier in my house but have not done the project
                  yet. Am somewhat thinking about retro-fitting "skin venting" to our
                  exterior walls but first must find someone with professional
                  credentials who will endorse such a project. If anyone finds fault
                  with what I have said, it will be to everybody's benefit to correct
                  me.

                  Thanks and good luck -- Mark J.
                   
                   
                   
                   

                  --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Boyer" <rox1@a...> wrote:
                  > I am looking for ways to reduce the cooling energy costs of my home.
                  I have heard about radiant heat barriers in the form of:
                  > 1) Exterior coatings (put on the paint or shingles) that reflect
                  solar radiation.
                  > 2) Foils that are applied to the underside of the roofing board -
                  either sprayed or stapped in sheets - that reflect infared radiation.
                  > 3) Foils that cover the attic floor on top of the insulation that
                  also reflect infared radiation.
                  >
                  > Does anyone have any experience with these applications?  Do they
                  work?  How much does it cost to have them installed?
                  >
                  > Theoretically the radiant barrier on the exterior of the roof and
                  the radiant barrier on the attic floor should work.  I don't see how
                  the foil/spray on the bottom of the roof could work.
                  >
                  > Chris Boyer
                  > "Conservation is a great alternative fuel."
                   

                  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


                  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
                Your message has been successfully submitted and would be delivered to recipients shortly.