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Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof

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  • Andrea Wisner
    Thank you for posting the link to your presentation with Mr. Strong! I enjoyed it and now feel better educated.   I am still thinking about painting with
    Message 1 of 50 , Sep 5, 2010
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      Thank you for posting the link to your presentation with Mr. Strong! I enjoyed it and now feel better educated.
       
      I am still thinking about painting with reflective coating our actual asphalt shingles, which were in the process of being installed (by the bank) when we first saw the house before we bought it, and which I doubt even have a warranty. I'm sure they used the cheapest stuff possible - only a year later gravel from the shingles is filling our gutters and water-collection system. I read that there's an acrylic coating to go on top of the reflective coating which will help keep it cleaner and help it last longer.
       
      So far I've heard this all can be done, and that it's a good idea, but yet I've never heard any actual experiences of applying this stuff to a pitched asphalt-shingle roof.  I've even emailed the reflective coatings council, and member companies, a couple times, but they never respond. I guess they're not interested in pitching their product. I'm trying to figure out a faux-painting technique that will help it actually look good, as opposed to a solid sheet of white.
       
      Once I've actually done this, I'll post on the results.
       
      I've thought of applying foil on top of the roof too. Not sure how long it would last!
       
      AW

      --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...> wrote:

      From: Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...>
      Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
      To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 5:50 PM

       
      i have not seen anything regarding how it affects the house efficiency but I have read a couple studies of how reflective roofs can dry out neighboring wood and brick because of reflective heat.  thought that was quite interesting.


      Stephanie Edwards-Musa
      Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
      Mobile:  281-635-9444
      Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
      www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
      Steph@...


      On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Philip Timmons <philiptimmons@...> wrote:
       
      Great video!

      Thanks.

      A lot of good information in this thread.

      Anyone know the radiant barrier results from putting a mirror surface on or as a roof?

      Am thinking about that as a solar concentrator method, and it seems like it would put the entire house "in the shade."

      Any thoughts regarding the radiant barrier aspects of this approach?  Have seen no studies along these lines, and am planning on building some side-by-side small box-house type to compare the mirrors to other methods.

       

      --- On Sun, 9/5/10, Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...> wrote:

      From: Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...>

      Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
      To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 3:29 PM


       
      Robert,

      Here is a webinar that I did a couple years ago that discusses options for radiant barrier.  It's about an hour long so you may want to fast forward to the radiant barrier part of it.

      The kind you tack on to the underside are generally not as effective because they get ripped or torn and require ventilation between the sheet and decking in order to work properly.

      http://blip.tv/file/1905334

      Stephanie Edwards-Musa
      Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
      Mobile:  281-635-9444
      Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
      www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
      Steph@...


      On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Eileen Nehiley <enehiley@...> wrote:
       
      Radiant barrier: I have read that these are not practical in Houston due to the humidity.  Do you have information to clear up the often contradictory information on this? 
      I have a continuous ridge vent, large screened gable vents at both side ends of house & equally spaced soffit vents all around. House is 2 story. 
      The garage has circular roof vents.

      Eileen

      On Sep 5, 2010, at 3:05 PM, Kevin Conlin wrote:

       

      From a practical standpoint, most builders simply vent the entire ridge and all the soffits. 
       
      You didn’t mention if you had soffit vents, but the effectiveness of any ventilation scheme is dependent on bringing in cool replacement air from below.
       
      The best solution is continuous ridge and soffit ventilation, with a radiant barrier tacked to the underside of the roof joists.
       
      Best Regards,  Kevin
       
      Kevin Conlin
      Heliosolar Design, Inc.
      13534 Quetzal Lane
      Houston, TX 77083
      Cell: 281-202-9629
      Fax: 281-530-7501
      kevin@...

      From: hreg@yahoogroups.com [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Robert Johnston
      Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 2:45 PM
      To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: RE: [hreg] Advice for new roof
       
       
      Thanks.  How will I know they calculated it properly?
       
      Robert
      From: hreg@yahoogroups.com [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Stephanie Edwards-Musa
      Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 2:00 PM
      To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
       
       
      Hi Robert,

      Just make sure that they calculate the air flow properly.  You can do ridge/hip vents but there has to be enough intake as well.  Solar Attic fans are become quite inexpensive as well but again, venting needs to be accurate.

      Stephanie Edwards-Musa
      Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
      Mobile:  281-635-9444
      Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
      www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
      Steph@...


      On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 11:34 AM, Robert Johnston <junk1@...> wrote:
       
      Any advice for a new roof?  I’m replacing a hail-damaged roof (30 yr asphalt shingles) on my 2500 sf single story ranch style home.  The home has no attic venting (there were two power fans at the gable ends but they quit working long ago).  I am thinking of going in with ridge vents and another covering of 30 yr shingles, but would welcome any advice or ideas you may have that would increase energy efficiency.
       
      Robert Johnston
      _
       






    • Ron Foster
      No question about it, Jay. The fumes that escape cleaning supplies, new carpet, paint, and other materials in the home can definitely make a person sick.
      Message 50 of 50 , Sep 14, 2010
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        No question about it, Jay. The fumes that escape cleaning supplies, new carpet, paint, and other materials in the home can definitely make a person sick. Negative ions is another problem. Electronic equipment generates way too many positive ions, and a imbalance can lead to more particles in the air inside the home. A proper balance ensures that particulates are kept at a minimum by attaching them to each other so that they float down.  .

        On Mon, Sep 13, 2010 at 9:29 AM, Jay <public@...> wrote:
         

        I like the point cooling (split, duct-less) system and I still do. But my thinking has started to change a little.

        A few days ago Gary posted something that said essentially "seal your house up until it is essentially air-tight". Many energy auditors also tell you the same thing, some will even attach a fan to your house and actually quantify their efforts to reduce ventilation to zero.

        I used to think the exact same thing. I am an Engineer by training (as by passion) and that is the way we think. Optimize optimize optimize!

        But this thinking started to change a little when I read "Cradle to Cradle" (a book which I actually disagreed with more than I agreed with). But they made the point that there is a lot more to life than energy efficiency, there is "environmental quality".

        Many things out-gas and micro-abrade (plastics, shoes, clothing, carpet, paint). By sealing up the house you are concentrating toxins, allergens and particulates in the area you spend the most time in. People who are familiar with "sick building syndrome" already know what I am talking about. We want to build healthy buildings. Since then I have started to see more value in bringing in fresh air from the outside, even (especially!) in residential homes.

        Reducing energy use as low as possible is not the only goal. It is an important goal, but it is not the only goal.

        That doesn't mean no point cooling. I still like individual units in each room. But have some plan for bringing in fresh air and for circulating air through the whole house.

        Of course, YMMV :) But it's something to keep in mind.

        --- In hreg@yahoogroups.com, Philip Timmons <philiptimmons@...> wrote:
        >
        > If you are willing to take the ducts out of the attic (a very good idea, btw) the trend along that path is to get rid of ducts completely and just put small evaporator coils and small blowers in each room you wish to cool.  System still uses the single large compressor/condenser outside, but no longer needs the big blower and ducts in the attic.

        >
        > ==============
        >
        > as a side note did any mention that not only do alternating current electric fans in attics not only cause fires, but are rumored to attract tornadoes, lightning, vampires bats and werewolves?
        >
        >   :D :D :D 
        >
        > Sorry . . .  just could not resist.
        >
        >
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        >  
        >
        > --- On Fri, 9/10/10, William & Cynthia Stange <stangfam@...> wrote:
        >
        > From: William & Cynthia Stange <stangfam@...>

        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > Date: Friday, September 10, 2010, 8:50 PM
        >
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        > Hello all,                   Been lurking here again for awhile. Thought you may want to look at this site. I had it bookmarked a long time ago and it took me some time to find it again. 
        > http://www.buildingscience.com/doctypes/designs-that-workThe "designs that work" section is what most interested me. Homes built in hot-humid climates has an unbelievable design, quite against what you would see here in Houston as normal. I had an architect tell me today that there was nothing wrong with having a black asphalt roof here in Houston. Hmmm. Personally I am of the mind to remove the AC ducting from the attic AND furnace, run them

        > through soffits built/incorporated into the ceiling of the home. That way you take advantage of your own insulation and keeping the AC equip. working at a minimum. I also believe it is time to take advantage of using a white roof. Take a look see what you all think? There is truth in finding someone who has done all the work. Unfortunately our old homes do not lend themselves to this kind of upgrade without a tremendous amount of hard-earned, economy-starved $$'s. I still think strawbale is one way to go, insulation and mass, excellent windows and a roof that limits radiation/heat from entering, however that is best achieved. My folks home from the fifties had crushed rock/gravel with a very light color, it was beautiful and quite painful when a huge storm blew through! :) Appreciate all your info. here as usual, you are all unique and empowering. Keep it up!!
        >
        > Bill Stange
        > From: Robert Johnston <junk1@...>

        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > Sent: Fri, September 10, 2010 8:02:10 PM
        > Subject: RE: [hreg] Advice for new roof
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        > I’ve appreciated all the advice/comments on attic
        > venting.  Here is an article I found that gives some arguments against >  
        >
        > Frankly, it doesn’t sound too hopeful for ANY kind of fan
        > or vent since nothing is going to move the 1000’s of CFM he talks about
        > as needed, unless you put in a ton of fans or else some real monster fans. 
        > I can’t imagine ridge vents doing it either.
        >
        >  
        >
        > And a third of the way down this page there are links to
        > government studies showing no energy savings with attic fans:
        >
        > http://forum.doityourself.com/archive/index.php/t-101501.html
        >
        >  
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        > There are also negatives given for ridge vents, in terms of rain
        > infiltration and low effectiveness (though some say otherwise tooâ€"it is

        > all very confusing and contradictory!).
        >
        >  
        >
        > So, still appreciate any input you may have, especially data-based.
        >
        >  
        >
        > Robert
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        >
        > From:
        > hreg@yahoogroups.com [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of apallegraa@...

        >
        > Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 12:42 PM
        >
        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
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        > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
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        > From: Ron Foster <toronfoster@...>
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        > Sender: hreg@yahoogroups.com
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        > Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:05:33 -0600
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        > To: <hreg@yahoogroups.com>
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        > ReplyTo: hreg@yahoogroups.com
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        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
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        > I have had at least three dealers to report
        > actually seeing AC fans catch fire. To date, there has never been an incidence
        > of solar fans catching fire, unless the house catches fire, of course.
        >
        >
        >
        > You've had some good luck with yours, but no one should consider one of these
        > fire-traps for their roof when a good solar fan is available.
        >
        >
        >
        > Sorry about the discourse, and good luck.
        >
        >
        >
        > On Thu, Sep 9, 2010 at 7:32 AM, Gary Beck <eco@...> wrote:
        >
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        >  
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        > You were implying
        > that AC fans catch fire and because of that a solar was better with regard to
        > fires. So I wanted to see where 'no fires' was in the solar fan's warranty.
        >
        > Fans do not
        > catch on fire, motors rarely, faulty wiring often. A correctly sized shorted
        > wire should trip a breaker before any fire starts.
        >
        > I have had a
        > thermostat controlled AC fan running in my garage for 15 years (set at 100F).
        > So far so good but I am keeping my fingers crossed.
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > From: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com]
        > On Behalf Of Ron Foster
        >
        > Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 8:00 AM
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        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
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        > Solar fans do not get hot. They just don't. Please
        > cite instances where solar fans catch fire? 
        >
        >
        >
        > On Wed, Sep 8, 2010 at 8:10 AM, Gary Beck <eco@...>
        > wrote:
        >
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        >  
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        >
        > PS: The balance
        > starts sounding like a sale pitch, which if it is I have no problem with
        > -  except for the negative selling part .
        >
        > The negative
        > selling features of "Noisy" (in an insulated attic?), "Excess
        > humidity" (How does a solar fan pull in less humidity in the morning into
        > a night time cooled attic than an AC fan?) and "fire" from an AC
        > motor (what about my AC blower in the attic that turn on and off all day every
        > day?) and "A solar fan will not catch on fire" (is that in the
        > warranty?).
        >
        > If anyone wants
        > to sell these things just stick with facts and the many positive aspects - easy
        > fo installation, no wiring, and the perceived greeness, and drop the negative
        > stuff.
        >
        >  
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        >  
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        > From: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com]
        > On Behalf Of Ron Foster
        >
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        >
        >
        >
        > Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 8:20 AM
        >
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        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
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        > I don't know where you're getting your information,
        > but it may be old.
        >
        > A Breezemaster works quite well on a cloudy day, even in the rain. It reaches
        > peak performance in direct sunshine, which is when it is needed most. What you
        > want is for a fan to start pulling hot air out of an attic at first light. In
        > this way, by the time it gets really hot, most of the hot air has been drawn
        > out.
        >
        > Note: We did several tests on attics with new Breezemasters. We used a
        > recording thermometer to see maximum temperatures drop from around 145 degrees
        > to 101 and 105 - this on days when outside temps reached 95 degrees.
        >
        > B. AC fans do not cost that much less. They are known to catch fire, btw,
        > something a solar fan will not do.  By the time you both install and AC

        > fan and use an electrician to connect it, the cost is much more than the true
        > out-of-pocket cost of a solar fan. The thing to remember also is that AC fans
        > seldom last more than a few years, while good solar fans last for decades,
        > making AC fans much, much more expensive. They are also very often quite noisy,
        > while solar fans are quiet.
        >
        > D. Excess humidity is a huge problem for attics with no ventilation. As far as
        > we've been able to determine, ventilation is the only way to get moisture out
        > of an attic. And as you all know, heat and moisture are the two biggest
        > problems for equipment.
        >
        >
        >
        > There really is no comparison, actually. Ask your insurance agent about fires
        > that result from AC fans. Ask someone who has used them how long they last.
        > Better still, ask Breezemaster customers if they're ready to go back to an AC
        > fan.
        >
        >
        >
        > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 7:46 PM, Robert Johnston <junk1@...>
        > wrote:
        >
        >
        >
        >  
        >
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        >
        > Thanks for your
        > comments (and to the rest of you too!).
        >
        >  
        >
        > Q. 
        > I’ve been reading online and there are lots of different points of view
        > on this question.  A few points I’ve read that I’d appreciate
        > your comments on:
        >
        > (a)  Solar
        > fans don’t work well on cloudy days and don’t work at night.
        >
        > (b)  Solar

        > fans only pull the rated CFM when in full sun at the peak of the solar day.
        >
        > (c )  A/C
        > powered fans cost much less and pull more air.  A/C fans use more
        > electricity than they save in cooling cost.  But solar fans have a payback
        > time of >20 years.
        >
        > (d)  excess

        > humidity can be a problem if you get too much venting
        >
        >
        >
        > Your reaction?
        >
        >  
        >
        > How do you
        > determine if 1 fan is enough, or if 2 should be used?  House is
        > “C†shaped (square off the corners), single story, 2550
        > s.f.  
        >
        > Do the fans work
        > better on the roof than gables?  I had gable fans but didn’t feel
        > like they did much.
        >
        >  
        >
        > Thanks,
        >
        >
        >
        > Robert
        >
        >  
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > From: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com]
        > On Behalf Of Ron Foster
        >
        > Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 5:28 PM
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
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        > I don't think you want a home to be 104 degrees,
        > Tai-Lyn, nor do you want Houston's high moisture in your home. No, the fans are
        > made to keep attic temperatures reasonably low, such as a few degrees above a
        > hundred on a hot day. Just contact Breezemaster through the website www.breezemaster.net
        >
        > The benefits are quite amazing, and at a cost often at about half of radiant
        > barrier. And btw, I talked to a roofer today who said that a ridge vent will
        > not pull out enough air to blow out a match. They are pitiful, but actually
        > very expensive.
        >
        > Lowering attic temperatures 25-30% actually takes about a third the workload
        > off the HVAC. This saves both utility dollars and possibly an expensive
        > compressor.
        >
        > Attic-based equipment should operate at no more than 117 degrees, so by
        > allowing temperatures to push 140-160 is one reason the equipment doesn't last
        > that long. Huge expense saved.
        >
        > Home temperature comes down - usually at least two degrees right away. The
        > upstairs becomes much more comfortable. 
        >
        > All solar-based attic fans qualify for a 30% tax credit. Note this is NOT an
        > energy credit and does NOT interfere with AC or other credits. Solar is in a
        > class by itself in which there is no upper limit.
        >
        >
        >
        > On Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 5:03 PM, Tai-Lin Hong <tailinux@...>
        > wrote:
        >
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >
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        >
        >
        > Ron,
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        >   If

        > the solar attic fans can reduce the attic temperature 35-45 degrees, do I
        > still need air conditioners for the rest part of the house? 
        >
        >
        >   I

        > also hate the fussy insolation foams, can I do away with it?
        >
        >
        >   Where

        > can I get these solar attic fans?
        >
        >
        >  
        >
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Tai-Lin Hong
        >
        >
        >
        > --- On Tue, 9/7/10, Ron Foster <toronfoster@...>
        > wrote:
        >
        >
        > From: Ron Foster <toronfoster@...>
        >
        >
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > Date:
        > Tuesday, September 7, 2010, 9:59 AM
        >
        >  

        >
        >
        >
        >
        > That still sounds pretty hot to me. Did you measure the temp? Also, how
        > much did the ridge vents cost? One good solar attic fan cost less than $800
        > after tax credit and will reduce attic temp as much as 45 degrees, though
        > usually around 35 degrees. Also, ridge vents do virtually nothing to address
        > high moisture.
        >
        > On
        > Tue, Sep 7, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Scarsella, Thomas M. (JSC-IS4)[TESSADA &
        > ASSOC INC] <Thomas.m.scarsella@...> wrote:
        >
        >  

        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > We had continuous ridge
        > venting installed when we had our roof replaced a decade ago and the attic is
        > now much cooler than it was beforehand.  We had a large electric fan

        > that would run for long periods and the attic was still too hot to tolerate
        > for more than a few minutes.  We have always had vented soffits.  There

        > is also a large slatted air intake in the exterior wall below one of the roof
        > peaks for air flow.  I believe that vent is what enables the ridge
        > venting to work as well as it does so I’d say the ridge venting will

        > work fine in Houston if you have enough air intake.
        >  
        > Since getting the ridge
        > venting  we have been able to work in the attic long enough to put some

        > decking down to reinforce the rafters, add hurricane straps, and make some
        > other small improvements and repairs.
        >  
        > Tom S.
        >
        >
        > From: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        > [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com]
        > On Behalf Of Garth & Kim Travis
        >
        > Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 5:33 PM
        >
        > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        >
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        >  
        >  
        >
        >
        >
        > Greetings,
        >
        >
        >
        > I did apply foil to the underside of a roof once. It really helped. It
        >
        > took a while to finish the job so I was able to test the idea. The
        >
        > first side finished was 10 to 15 degrees F cooler, just under the roof.
        >
        > Measuring air temp. It was just ordinary cooking foil put up with an
        >
        > office stapler.
        >
        >
        >
        > Bright Blessings,
        >
        > Garth & Kim Travis
        >
        > www.TheRoseColoredForest.com
        >
        > Bedias, Texas
        >
        > 936-395-0110
        >
        >
        >
        > On 9/5/2010 5:29 PM, Andrea Wisner wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Thank you for posting the link to your presentation with Mr. Strong! I
        >
        > > enjoyed it and now feel better educated.
        >
        > > I am still thinking about painting with reflective coating our actual
        >
        > > asphalt shingles, which were in the process of being installed (by the
        >
        > > bank) when we first saw the house before we bought it, and which I doubt
        >
        > > even have a warranty. I'm sure they used the cheapest stuff possible -
        >
        > > only a year later gravel from the shingles is filling our gutters and
        >
        > > water-collection system. I read that there's an acrylic coating to go on
        >
        > > top of the reflective coating which will help keep it cleaner and help
        >
        > > it last longer.
        >
        > > So far I've heard this all can be done, and that it's a good idea, but
        >
        > > yet I've never heard any actual experiences of applying this stuff to a
        >
        > > pitched asphalt-shingle roof. I've even emailed the reflective coatings
        >
        > > council, and member companies, a couple times, but they never respond. I
        >
        > > guess they're not interested in pitching their product. I'm trying to
        >
        > > figure out a faux-painting technique that will help it actually look
        >
        > > good, as opposed to a solid sheet of white.
        >
        > > Once I've actually done this, I'll post on the results.
        >
        > > I've thought of applying foil on top of the roof too. Not sure how long
        >
        > > it would last!
        >
        > > AW
        >
        > >
        >
        > > --- On *Sun, 9/5/10, Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > > /<steph@...>/* wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > From: Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...>

        >
        > > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        > > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > > Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 5:50 PM
        >
        > >
        >
        > > i have not seen anything regarding how it affects the house
        >
        > > efficiency but I have read a couple studies of how reflective roofs
        >
        > > can dry out neighboring wood and brick because of reflective heat.
        >
        > > thought that was quite interesting.
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > > Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
        >
        > > Mobile: 281-635-9444
        >
        > > Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
        >
        > > www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
        > <http://www.turninghoustongreen.com/>
        >
        > > Steph@...

        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 2:45 PM, Philip Timmons
        >
        > > <philiptimmons@...
        >
        > > <http://us.mc532.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=philiptimmons@...>>

        >
        > > wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Great video!
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Thanks.
        >
        > >
        >
        > > A lot of good information in this thread.
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Anyone know the radiant barrier results from putting a mirror
        >
        > > surface on or as a roof?
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Am thinking about that as a solar concentrator method, and it
        >
        > > seems like it would put the entire house "in the shade."
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Any thoughts regarding the radiant barrier aspects of this
        >
        > > approach? Have seen no studies along these lines, and am
        >
        > > planning on building some side-by-side small box-house type to
        >
        > > compare the mirrors to other methods.
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > --- On *Sun, 9/5/10, Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > > /<steph@...
        >
        > > <http://us.mc532.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=steph@...>>/*
        >
        > > wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > From: Stephanie Edwards-Musa <steph@...
        >
        > > <http://us.mc532.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=steph@...>>

        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Subject: Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        > > To: hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > > <http://us.mc532.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>
        >
        > > Date: Sunday, September 5, 2010, 3:29 PM
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Robert,
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Here is a webinar that I did a couple years ago that
        >
        > > discusses options for radiant barrier. It's about an hour
        >
        > > long so you may want to fast forward to the radiant barrier
        >
        > > part of it.
        >
        > >
        >
        > > The kind you tack on to the underside are generally not as
        >
        > > effective because they get ripped or torn and require
        >
        > > ventilation between the sheet and decking in order to work
        >
        > > properly.
        >
        > >
        >
        > > http://blip.tv/file/1905334
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > > Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
        >
        > > Mobile: 281-635-9444
        >
        > > Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
        >
        > > www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
        >
        > > <http://www.turninghoustongreen.com/>
        >
        > > Steph@...

        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > > On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 1:13 PM, Eileen Nehiley
        >
        > > <enehiley@...
        >
        > > <http://mc/compose?to=enehiley@...>>

        > wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Radiant barrier: I have read that these are not
        >
        > > practical in Houston due to the humidity. Do you have
        >
        > > information to clear up the often contradictory
        >
        > > information on this?
        >
        > > I have a continuous ridge vent, large screened gable
        >
        > > vents at both side ends of house & equally spaced soffit
        >
        > > vents all around. House is 2 story.
        >
        > > The garage has circular roof vents.
        >
        > >
        >
        > > Eileen
        >
        > >
        >
        > > On Sep 5, 2010, at 3:05 PM, Kevin Conlin wrote:
        >
        > >
        >
        > >>
        >
        > >> From a practical standpoint, most builders simply vent
        >
        > >> the entire ridge and all the soffits.
        >
        > >> You didn’t mention if you had soffit vents, but the

        >
        > >> effectiveness of any ventilation scheme is dependent
        >
        > >> on bringing in cool replacement air from below.
        >
        > >> The best solution is continuous ridge and soffit
        >
        > >> ventilation, with a radiant barrier tacked to the
        >
        > >> underside of the roof joists.
        >
        > >> Best Regards, Kevin
        >
        > >> Kevin Conlin
        >
        > >> Heliosolar Design, Inc.
        >
        > >> 13534 Quetzal Lane
        >
        > >> Houston, TX 77083
        >
        > >> Cell: 281-202-9629
        >
        > >> Fax: 281-530-7501
        >
        > >> kevin@...
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=kevin@...>

        >
        > >> ----------------------------------------------------------
        >
        > >> *From:* hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>
        >
        > >> [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>] *On
        >
        > >> Behalf Of *Robert Johnston
        >
        > >> *Sent:* Sunday, September 05, 2010 2:45 PM
        >
        > >> *To:* hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>
        >
        > >> *Subject:* RE: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        > >> Thanks. How will I know they calculated it properly?
        >
        > >> Robert
        >
        > >> *From:* hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>
        >
        > >> [mailto:hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>] *On
        >
        > >> Behalf Of *Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > >> *Sent:* Sunday, September 05, 2010 2:00 PM
        >
        > >> *To:* hreg@yahoogroups.com
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=hreg@yahoogroups.com>
        >
        > >> *Subject:* Re: [hreg] Advice for new roof
        >
        > >> Hi Robert,
        >
        > >>
        >
        > >> Just make sure that they calculate the air flow
        >
        > >> properly. You can do ridge/hip vents but there has to
        >
        > >> be enough intake as well. Solar Attic fans are become
        >
        > >> quite inexpensive as well but again, venting needs to
        >
        > >> be accurate.
        >
        > >>
        >
        > >> Stephanie Edwards-Musa
        >
        > >> Realtor, Certified EcoBroker
        >
        > >> Mobile: 281-635-9444
        >
        > >> Prudential Gary Greene, Realtors
        >
        > >> www.TurningHoustonGreen.com
        >
        > >> <http://www.turninghoustongreen.com/>
        >
        > >> Steph@...
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=Steph@...>

        >
        > >>
        >
        > >>
        >
        > >> On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 11:34 AM, Robert Johnston
        >
        > >> <junk1@...
        >
        > >> <http://mc/compose?to=junk1@...>>
        > wrote:
        >
        > >> Any advice for a new roof? I’m replacing a

        >
        > >> hail-damaged roof (30 yr asphalt shingles) on my 2500
        >
        > >> sf single story ranch style home. The home has no
        >
        > >> attic venting (there were two power fans at the gable
        >
        > >> ends but they quit working long ago). I am thinking of
        >
        > >> going in with ridge vents and another covering of 30
        >
        > >> yr shingles, but would welcome any advice or ideas you
        >
        > >> may have that would increase energy efficiency.
        >
        > >> Robert Johnston
        >
        > >>_
        >
        > >>
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        >
        > Ron Foster â€" President
        >
        > Solar Panels of America LLC
        >
        > 281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        >
        > www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        > Ron Foster â€" President
        >
        > Solar Panels of America LLC
        >
        > 281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        >
        > www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        > Ron Foster â€" President
        >
        > Solar Panels of America LLC
        >
        > 281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        >
        > www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        > Ron Foster â€" President
        >
        > Solar Panels of America LLC
        >
        > 281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        >
        > www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > --
        >
        > Ron Foster â€" President
        >
        > Solar Panels of America LLC
        >
        > 281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        >
        > www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
        >




        --
        Ron Foster – President
        Solar Panels of America LLC
        281-866-5001 Fax: 832-203-1455
        www.solarpanelsofamerica.com
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