3151Re: [hreg] Roof sprinklers
- Jul 12, 2005Controls,
I set up similar system, used sprinkler timer (4 to 8 zones) and valves from
Home Depot or Lowes.
Low voltage, can set up separate zones, etc.
On 7/12/05 11:15 AM, "Paul Archer" <tigger@...> wrote:
> Here's the information that you sent me a while back, Kim. (Thanks!)
> The idea of running a sprinkler on the roof was tested by an earlier member
> of HREG, and my apologize as I don't remember who did it. [blush, blush!]
> I should be in the archives. Anyway, that person used a sprinkler for one
> summer and discovered a 30% decrease in his electric bill after taking into
> account the rise in his water bill. However, having a shingle roof made the
> project of limited interest since it does damage that type of roof to be
> constantly wet.
> I had to put in a new building in a hurry since a tornado touched down on my
> property and severely damage my home structurally. I put in a metal
> building and specified that it must be able to handle a sprinkler system on
> the roof for cooling. My roof is a 1 in 12 pitch made of galvalume.
> The sprinkler system itself is 1/2" PVC run up the outside of the building
> and weighted down with sand bags at the ground and on the roof. I am using
> 3, sprinklers, one full circle and 2 semicircles to cover a 40' x 70'
> building. I have drains to the system at both ends of the building. My
> built the control unit. We took the solenoid from an old washing machine,
> so it operates on 120V, bought a relay timer from Midstate electric, in
> and wired it in. If you need more information on the electronics of the
> system, I will get him to answer.
> We have now run the system for 2 years and have not had to replace any
> parts. We did flush the system with the sprinklers removed in the spring as
> did build up algae, but we are on a well, so our water is not chlorinated.
> We are in the process of installing gutters on the building and putting in a
> water catchment system for our raised garden beds. [Pictures and function
> to be posted when it is in use.] Our water has a high salt content that has
> gotten much worse since the Tenasca power plant went into operation in
> The cycle timer I used is an IDEC electronic timer model GT3W - A11AF20. It
> uses a standard octal pin arrangement that relays use, therefore a standard
> relay socket. The coil is rated for 100 - 240 VAC, the contacts at 5 Amps @
> 120VAC or 30VDC, or 3 Amps @ 240 VAC. We are using a set of solenoids
> from an old washing machine, which are 120VAC, and since there are 2
> contacts on the timer, I ran them in parallel, which gives me a max. of 10
> out. This timer can be programmed for any configuration of outputs you
> want, using T1 and T2 any way you want.
> 11:08am, Garth & Kim Travis wrote:
>> I am being bombarded off list with questions on my sprinkler system,
>> therefore, I am putting the answer on list. I am not the originator of the
>> idea, it was James Ferrill back in July 2000, starting at message # 261.
>> We have a metal building and from what James said, a metal roof is needed
>> to make this system work. We have 3 sprinklers that go around in circles
>> up on our roof. The sprinklers come on for 20 seconds every 10 minutes
>> from the time I turn them on until we turn them off. I would like to have
>> them on a photo voltaic circuit, but I have yet to talk hubby into building
>> it for me. He salvaged a servo valve from an old washing machine and
>> bought the timer at Mid-State Electronics in Bryan. I did get him to write
>> out a detailed description of the system a couple of years ago and I
>> thought I put it in the files sections, but it is not there now. I will
>> try to get him to write it out again and I will make sure I save a copy
>> this time so it doesn't get lost again.
>> Bright Blessings,
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
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