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Re: Need advice

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  • Inventor
    Hey Dan, About a half a dozen links wouldn t hurt.... A few to read up about it. A few more as to where to buy it for 20 BUCKS All I ve found was clay and
    Message 1 of 24 , Apr 11 11:56 AM
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      Hey Dan,
      About a half a dozen links wouldn't hurt....
      A few to read up about it.
      A few more as to where to buy it for "20 BUCKS"

      All I've found was clay and that 'started' at $85/50#.

      Grandpa Bill

      --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dan Brewer <danqualman@...> wrote:
      >
      > On of the problems with using POP is that it is hygroscopic meaning that
      > the material will never release all of the water trapped in its structure.
      > It actually will draw water out of the atmosphere . I would use a material
      > that when fired will vitrify and change to a substance that now will reject
      > water. American plaster makes casting plaster. 50 lbs goes for about
      > 20USD . There are several others. Plaster of Paris is best left to the
      > art casting for statues.
      >
      > Dan in Auburn
    • Dan Brewer
      So here is a link to one supplier. http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/U-S-Gypsum-1-CASTING-PLASTER-50-lbs-p/rmcaspla50.htm The name of the company is US gypsum
      Message 2 of 24 , Apr 11 3:15 PM
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        So here is a link to one supplier.
        http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/U-S-Gypsum-1-CASTING-PLASTER-50-lbs-p/rmcaspla50.htm
        The name of the company is US gypsum not US plaster. Brain fart. The way
        that I use it is to take my wax master with sprus and vent attached and
        coat it in Jet dry. Yes the stuff you use in your dish washer. It breaks
        the surface tension on the wax and allows the plaster to stick. I mix a
        little of the plaster up to the consistency of thin pancake batter and
        paint it on. until I have coated the entire master except the top of the
        pouring cup and the top of the vents. . I let that dry a little miz a
        little more up a little thicker and put on another coat. When still wet I
        sprinkle flint sand on the entire piece. Let that dry for a little. Mix up
        some more plaster about 60/40 plaster sand and coat the piece. Let dry. You
        should have coated the piece about 1.4 to 1/2 inch thick by now. Mix up
        some more plaster 50/50 sand and plaster. sprinkle each coat with sand. The
        next coat should be 30/30/30 plaster /sand / and grog. Grog is previously
        fired plaster that has been broken up in to pieces that will fit through a
        #8 sieve. When you have 3/4 to one inch of plaster wrap the piece in small
        chicken wire. This is to keep the mold from breaking up when you fire it.
        Add another inch of plaster , grog, sand to the outside of the mold. The
        top and bottom of the mold should be able to support the mold with out
        tipping over. The top because when you fire it the top will be down so all
        of the wax will leave the mold and the bottom so you can fill the now
        vacated mold with metal. Let dry .for several days in a warm spot. I place
        mine on a blotter board. My blotter board is a 2x2 piece of drywall.
        Place in your kiln and heat at the rate of 100 deg f per hour until the
        melting temp of the wax has been reached. My kiln has a stainless steel
        sink in the bottom that is plumbed out the bottom to get some of the wax
        out of the kiln. I am able to recover some of it but not much. after the
        wax is out around 200 to 275 deg you can ramp up a little faster Fire at
        2000deg f for 4 to 20 hours depending on size of the piece. Let cool to
        around 400 deg and pour.. Cover the pouring cup and vents with perlite or
        vermiculite and let cool. When the outside of the mold is just hot enough
        to touch sweep off the perlite/ vermiculite and you can remove the
        plaster. Remember that it will be hot. I use a hammer and a water hose to
        remove most of the plaster . Plaster will clog your drain . More clean up
        can be done with a stiff brush or sand blasting.
        For more information look up lost wax casting , ceramic shell casting.

        Dan in Auburn

        Other places to find casting plaster are pottery suppl houses. jewelery
        supply houses. And there are lots of formulas of the casting plaster. This
        is just the one that I have been using.


        On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 11:56 AM, Inventor <welfab@...> wrote:

        > **
        >
        >
        > Hey Dan,
        > About a half a dozen links wouldn't hurt....
        > A few to read up about it.
        > A few more as to where to buy it for "20 BUCKS"
        >
        > All I've found was clay and that 'started' at $85/50#.
        >
        > Grandpa Bill
        >
        >
        > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dan Brewer <danqualman@...> wrote:
        > >
        > > On of the problems with using POP is that it is hygroscopic meaning that
        > > the material will never release all of the water trapped in its
        > structure.
        > > It actually will draw water out of the atmosphere . I would use a
        > material
        > > that when fired will vitrify and change to a substance that now will
        > reject
        > > water. American plaster makes casting plaster. 50 lbs goes for about
        > > 20USD . There are several others. Plaster of Paris is best left to the
        > > art casting for statues.
        > >
        > > Dan in Auburn
        >
        >
        >


        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      • abascirocco
        FWIW, US Gypsum also has a plaster specifically formulated for non-ferrous metal casting, they call it simply USG metal casting plaster. The other major North
        Message 3 of 24 , Apr 11 7:18 PM
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          FWIW, US Gypsum also has a plaster specifically formulated for non-ferrous metal casting, they call it simply USG metal casting plaster. The other major North American plaster manufacturer is Georgia Pacific, they also have a line of metal casting plasters.



          --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dan Brewer <danqualman@...> wrote:
          >
          > So here is a link to one supplier.
          > http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/U-S-Gypsum-1-CASTING-PLASTER-50-lbs-p/rmcaspla50.htm
          > The name of the company is US gypsum not US plaster. Brain fart. The way
          > that I use it is to take my wax master with sprus and vent attached and
          > coat it in Jet dry. Yes the stuff you use in your dish washer. It breaks
          > the surface tension on the wax and allows the plaster to stick. I mix a
          > little of the plaster up to the consistency of thin pancake batter and
          > paint it on. until I have coated the entire master except the top of the
          > pouring cup and the top of the vents. . I let that dry a little miz a
          > little more up a little thicker and put on another coat. When still wet I
          > sprinkle flint sand on the entire piece. Let that dry for a little. Mix up
          > some more plaster about 60/40 plaster sand and coat the piece. Let dry. You
          > should have coated the piece about 1.4 to 1/2 inch thick by now. Mix up
          > some more plaster 50/50 sand and plaster. sprinkle each coat with sand. The
          > next coat should be 30/30/30 plaster /sand / and grog. Grog is previously
          > fired plaster that has been broken up in to pieces that will fit through a
          > #8 sieve. When you have 3/4 to one inch of plaster wrap the piece in small
          > chicken wire. This is to keep the mold from breaking up when you fire it.
          > Add another inch of plaster , grog, sand to the outside of the mold. The
          > top and bottom of the mold should be able to support the mold with out
          > tipping over. The top because when you fire it the top will be down so all
          > of the wax will leave the mold and the bottom so you can fill the now
          > vacated mold with metal. Let dry .for several days in a warm spot. I place
          > mine on a blotter board. My blotter board is a 2x2 piece of drywall.
          > Place in your kiln and heat at the rate of 100 deg f per hour until the
          > melting temp of the wax has been reached. My kiln has a stainless steel
          > sink in the bottom that is plumbed out the bottom to get some of the wax
          > out of the kiln. I am able to recover some of it but not much. after the
          > wax is out around 200 to 275 deg you can ramp up a little faster Fire at
          > 2000deg f for 4 to 20 hours depending on size of the piece. Let cool to
          > around 400 deg and pour.. Cover the pouring cup and vents with perlite or
          > vermiculite and let cool. When the outside of the mold is just hot enough
          > to touch sweep off the perlite/ vermiculite and you can remove the
          > plaster. Remember that it will be hot. I use a hammer and a water hose to
          > remove most of the plaster . Plaster will clog your drain . More clean up
          > can be done with a stiff brush or sand blasting.
          > For more information look up lost wax casting , ceramic shell casting.
          >
          > Dan in Auburn
          >
          > Other places to find casting plaster are pottery suppl houses. jewelery
          > supply houses. And there are lots of formulas of the casting plaster. This
          > is just the one that I have been using.
          >
          >
          > On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 11:56 AM, Inventor <welfab@...> wrote:
          >
          > > **
          > >
          > >
          > > Hey Dan,
          > > About a half a dozen links wouldn't hurt....
          > > A few to read up about it.
          > > A few more as to where to buy it for "20 BUCKS"
          > >
          > > All I've found was clay and that 'started' at $85/50#.
          > >
          > > Grandpa Bill
          > >
          > >
          > > --- In hobbicast@yahoogroups.com, Dan Brewer <danqualman@> wrote:
          > > >
          > > > On of the problems with using POP is that it is hygroscopic meaning that
          > > > the material will never release all of the water trapped in its
          > > structure.
          > > > It actually will draw water out of the atmosphere . I would use a
          > > material
          > > > that when fired will vitrify and change to a substance that now will
          > > reject
          > > > water. American plaster makes casting plaster. 50 lbs goes for about
          > > > 20USD . There are several others. Plaster of Paris is best left to the
          > > > art casting for statues.
          > > >
          > > > Dan in Auburn
          > >
          > >
          > >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >
        • bs190815
          For years I have been using Ransom & Randoph Ultra-Vest. I recently bought five 100 pound drum; I use nothing else! Here is their web site, lots of good
          Message 4 of 24 , Apr 18 5:10 AM
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            For years I have been using Ransom & Randoph Ultra-Vest. I recently bought five 100 pound drum; I use nothing else!

            Here is their web site, lots of good information.

            http://www.ransom-randolph.com/
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