Re: [hobbicast] Re: Proportionate wt of MDF to Al
- Thanks Guys for the info. I have to double check the dimensions of
my crucible. It will be close to the limits.
On 2/10/2013 2:14 PM, Carl wrote:
> Rupert:Assuming the id of the crucible is 5" and you fill it 9"deep it should hold just over 17 lbs of aluminum. 5.4 x 2.75 = 14.9lbs. It could be close. Do this: Fill a bucket full of water. Spray your pattern with wax. Place the pattern in the bucket until it is submerged then remove. Fill your crucible with water to the pouring level. Refill the bucket from the crucible. Any extra water in the crucible will be equal in volume to the extra aluminum. Carl
> From: tmoranwms <tmoranwms@...>
> To: firstname.lastname@example.org
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:38 AM
> Subject: [hobbicast] Re: Proportionate wt of MDF to Al
> Google says MDF has a specific gravity of 0.5 to 0.8 g/cc. Which means it'll float in water. Seems heavier than that in my experience. Aluminum is 2.7, so you need 5.4 times more, worst case, plus gates and such. If you have a hunk of the stuff of known volume or dimension, you can weigh it and see what your stock actually is.
> --- In email@example.com, Rupert wrote:
>> Hello guys,
>> I haven't posted in awhile but I've been reading the mails that
>> came through. I have a question to ask.
>> Does anyone know the proportionate weight between MDF and aluminum?
>> I have a large casting to make and am not sure if my crucible is
>> large enough. The crucible I will use is a steel pipe 5" dia by 10"
>> tall. The MDF pattern weighs 2 3/4 lbs. I thought I had this info but
>> can't find it now that I need it.
>> Thanks for any help in advance.
>> Rupert Wenig
>> Camrose, Alberta, Canada.
>> email: rwenig2@...
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Camrose, Alberta, Canada.
- On Feb 10, 2013, at 3:54 PM, Rupert wrote:
> Thanks Guys for the info. I have to double check the dimensions ofDon't forget runners, gates, risers, sprue etc…
> my crucible. It will be close to the limits.
- Vortex burner update:
Lazy Man’s Vortex Burner
The simplest way to construct a Vortex burner is to use a stainless steel sausage stuffing tube as the basic building unit on which to mount the burner’s other parts; these tubes come already connected to their own bell housings or funnel shapes, so you don’t have to “braze stainless”; always an expensive construction technique.
Their extra wide, and very flat, rims at the open ends of the housings/funnels, (normally employed to help effectively trap them on sausage grinders) promote easy mounting of both axial motor and gas tube onto the opening, and their long tubes can slide easily into still longer mixing tubes, on which spacer rings and flame nozzles can be mounted. This eliminates any need for fit-up and silver brazing of parts; it also simplifies mounting the motor and gas fittings.
Unfortunately stuffing tubes come in a limited amount of sizes; they can only be used to construct 1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, and 1” burners. 1/8”, 3/16”, 3/4”, or larger than 1” burners require more complicated construction methods.
The axial fans are low power 5V and 12V DC muffin fans that are run more often than not run on minimum battery power (ex. a 9V battery or wall-wart to power a 12V fan).
Your fan is mounted on the backside of a 3/8” thick aluminum, brass, plastic or even wooden washer, which is attached to the funnel rim with screws that are threaded into the washer through larger holes drilled in the rim. The motor mounts over the washer’s inside hole, which matches the motors blade diameter with four screws. A hole is drilled from the washer’s outer edge to the inner hole (aimed at its center).
A 1/8” annealed refrigeration tube gets snaked through this hole, and bent down at right angles toward the mixing tube at the funnel’s small end. A 1/2” long copper or brass capillary tube is soldered or brazed into the end of the refrigeration tube; the tube’s other end has a barbed or threaded pipe coupling attached. Pull the tube forward until the gas jet ends about 5/16” short of the funnel’s small opening, center it, and trap it in place with glue, or solder.
Note: Use 0.020” orifice size copper or brass capillary tube on 1/4” burner; 0.025” to 0.028” orifice on 3/8” burner; 0.032” orifice size on 1/2” burner; 0.044” to 0.048” orifice on 1” burner.
Do not buy the mixing tube, spacer ring, or flame nozzle material until you have the sausage stuffing tube on hand; measure it with cheap digital calipers from Harbor Freight Tools, before going to Onlinemetals.com and ordering the other parts; they should be stainless steel, although D.O.M makes a nice mixing tube. How much work fit-up between stuffing tube stem and the mixing tube (which should be eighteen times the stem's diameter in length depends on plus/minus tolerances in both parts). However, you can power sand only an inch or so for a tight fit in the mixing tube’s end, and slit the stem down its length, leaving only the last inch intact for a tight fit.
The spacer ring between mixing tube and flame nozzle should be one inch long, and at least 3/16” thick. The flame nozzle should be 2-1/4” long; both parts should be pinned together in three equally distant places with 10-24 Allen screws, and they should slide freely together on the mixing tube. Sand or file all burrs.
Unlike earlier burner designs, there is a lot of “wriggle room” in flame nozzle diameters and tuning parameters.
LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter bell housing with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter by 6-3/4” long tube ($21.55 and shipping): http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Sausage-Stuffing-Stuffers/dp/B005U4AZ9M/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_3
Tubing size is always listed by outside diameter; inside diameter is going to be thirty to fifty thousandths of an inch smaller, depending on the manufacturer. 3/8” tube at 0.375” is only thirty to fifty thousandths smaller than the inside diameter of 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
LEM 606A stainless steel sausage stuffing tube; this consists of a 1-9/16” diameter extra-long funnel with wide rim, which is already connected to a 3/8” diameter long tube; 6-3/4” length ($22.95 and shipping): http://www.meatprocessingproducts.com/lem606a.html?utm_source=lem606a&utm_medium=shopping%2Bengine&utm_campaign=googleproducts&gclid=COaF9_74nbUCFWPhQgodeGUAjw This tube is nearest to 1/4” schedule #40 pipe.
#32 x 1/2" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($12.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/narrow-Stuffing-sausage-Sticks-Weiners/dp/B007WWMX7C/ref=sr_1_67?ie=UTF8&qid=1360021529&sr=8-67&keywords=stainless+steel+funnel+small This tube is nine thousandths larger inside diameter than 3/8” schedule #40 pipe.
#32 x 3/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-grinders-LEM-Cabelas/dp/B007WO4VXY/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD This tube is one-hundred and eighteen thousandths larger inside diameter than 1/2” schedule #40 pipe.
#32 x 1-1/4" diameter stainless steel sausage stuffing tube ($16.75 and shipping); this consists of a bell housing with extra wide rim, which is already connected to a long tube (9” overall length): http://www.amazon.com/large-Stuffing-Grinders-Sausage-Making/dp/B007WNWTIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_k_4 This tube is at least fifty thousandths larger inside diameter than 1” schedule #40 pipe.
Combination of three different sized (3/8”, 3/4”, and 1-1/4” diameter by 7” long) sausage stuffing tubes, with conical shaped housings ($39.75 and shipping) : http://www.amazon.com/Sausage-Stuffing-Grinder-electric-grinders/dp/B008H51OLE/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=AVD56TC78HQKD
Michael Porter (author of Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns).
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